2001 Ford Ranger Regular Cab - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

common problem with these transmissions have the shift fork replaced its probably aluminum a little is alot for those for wear

What engine and what are you trying to remove? If a bolt that needs to be removed is behind the balancer than I would say you need to remove the balancer.

check and make sure the brake lights come on when you apply brake. The shift interlock works off the same circuit so if the lights arent working it wont shift out of park. It is common for the switch to go bad.

It sounds like you need to get your air con re-gassed. take it to a GOOD garage, they should do it for a little amount.

That sqeal means that the bearing is damanaged. There are no out of the ordinary tools required. I have canged one in the parts store parking lot with a socket set and a screwdriver and I don't think I used the driver, mybe to pry off old one. Anyhow good luck,you should have an easy time of it.

if the a/c was working and the circulation fan stopped, it is likely the fan or relay is bad. First, try to see if the fan is getting voltage, using a non-self powered test light. If you see it lighting up when connected to the fan motor positive terminal and ground, then it is the fan motor itself that needs to be replaced.

good luck on this one.

You will need to replace the control arm with the ball joint since it is not sold separately. If one is found it will be a foreign made piece of junk and not worth using. They are weak and break

OK,find the ac compressor,there are two lines coming from it,follow the large ac line until you come to it,it will be the only one on that line,and the hose will only connect to it,I hope this was helpful,and if so,please rate,thank you.

If the alternator has been bench tested and passed then you need to check the big wire for 12volts at the alternator. If you have 12 volts then you need to trace the other wire to the PCM. The charging system is computer controlled and its possible the computer is the issue. To diagnose this correctly go to mitchell1diy online and pay the ten bucks for all the proceduers and wiring diagrams. If the charging system light is off then try this. Charge up the battery. Then turn the lights on for a couple minutes to drain the surface charge. Then using a 12v meter hooked to the battery check the draining voltage while cranking. A good battery will maintain a 12 or better voltage even if the truck does not start. If it goes down fast then the battery is bad. Alot of times when a battery is tested using a professional tester they pass. You may need to remove the fuel pump relay so the truck does not start for this test since your testing the cranking amps. Also with the key out of the ignition and doors locked and the negative unhooked at the battery you can check for parasitic drain. Using a amp meter hooked up inline battery to cable you should have less than 1/10th volt. If any more then you have a component not shutting off. Pull fusses 1 at a time till you find the system thats the issue. Watch the meter as you pull fuses

You must have a bad ignition switch

so its not the plugs, then check the injector signal with a noid light, also check the egr valve , fuel pressure, find out what is not wrong and it will lead you to what is

did you try both keys? also are they the originals that came with it new? if not inferior keys go bad all the time

Misfires are either fuel/air mixture or spark.

If you've got the spark, then start looking at the fuel/air mixture. Check the plugs to ensure that they are in good shape (no cracks, not discolored, properly gapped).

Double check the plug wires and firing order... if everything checks out, then you could be having a vacuum problem such as an intake gasket leak.

Good luck!

You will need to go to a Ford dealership and first get the part. The remove the radio's center trim panel. two screws are hidden at the bottom. Removet that panel the remove all screws that hold in the cluster trim. After the trim is removed, remove thecluster screws. You will see the cable which leads into the shift bowl. That is what is removed and replaced

look on the passenger side close to the firewall give these websites a try www.alldatadiy.com and www.autozone.com if all fails stop by your local Ford dealership in the parts department and they be able to print you off the pictures and diagrams you will need wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.

the heater core is bad and needs replaced

special tool (about $15 at any parts store). It pushes in around the fuel line to release a clip inside , then the fuel line just slides off. Sometimes takes some wiggling and jiggling.

the cam sensor is located in the topside of the engine, behind the manifold, near the firewall. it is held in by two mounting bolts. just remove the wire connector and the two mounting bolts. you can then remove the cam sensor. slightly lube the oring on the new cam sensor and reinstall. tighten two mounting bolts and reconnect the wire connector

Hello motokid40: My name is Roger and I will help you. The correct plug gap for the sp-432 plug is 0.044 in. Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

Click on the following direct Link. It has the Timing Belt Diagrams with Marks for the Camshaft and Crankshaft that you will need.

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2001/make/ford/model/ranger/2001_ford_ranger_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm