20 Most Recent 2001 Nissan Altima - Page 5 Questions & Answers

It sounds like the oil pressure is low. If the car has high mileage, this may be either a failed oil pump or a clogged oil pickup, or may be a clogged oil filter. You will need to drop the oil pan and see what is happening. IMPORTANT: If you attempt to drive the vehicle with a low oil pressure condition, the engine may seize, rendering the reason for the low oil pressure academic.

Pull the fuse

Can you be more specific.... What relay, how many pins etc.. Also what was the original problem and who said it was a relay

check your other brake lights some made it so if one of your brake light bulbs goes out then the top will stay on as a safety feature.

Check auto fluid level with engine idling and post back answer. (Car must be on level ground also)

try adjusting the brake light switch , this is located at top of brake pedal , you will see a wire connector at top of pedal unplug this and check if the light has gone off, if so turn the switch anti-clock wise one complete turn and reconnect the wire , check if the light has come back on or stayed off , if still on repeat the process , if after getting to the stage where the switch is practically out of the brake pedal mounting and the light still comes on when wire is reconnected then the switch could be the issue and a new switch would be needed ,if the light stayed ON when you first removed the wire from the switch then the problem will be more local to the light so remove the light fitting and check the wires are in good condition ,no sign of corrosion etc and trace the wiring back from the light and make sure the earth connection to the body is clean and secure, keep me posted

If you can't glue the handle back on, e.g. with urethane glue (gorilla glue, Elmers Nano, etc.; use as directed, cleaning lever and plastic cover with soap and water just before gluing) then you can just buy a part like Nissan 84640-9E000 (1998 Altima exact replacement; Nissan call it a Handle- Trunk & Gas Door Release.)

That will work fine as long as the gas filler door mechanism isn't messed up; go check for obstructions once you open the door, presumably by using a small locking pliers over a cloth or some rubber on the lever (or the cable wire.)

The trick is, you get to replace it with the door open; use a blade screwdriver to pry the running-board trim up, unscrew the bolt on the trim to the left and pry that off, undo some expander bolts holding the carpet across the running-board area, and wrangle the carpet away from the lever you want to replace.  Some 10mm wrench work gets the lever loose, and you tilt the loosened stuff forwards to be able to remove the cable.  Regrease the bolts and cable run as well as you can.  Thread the new handle through the carpet before you bolt it in; it's harder to set up and bolt, but you don't have to cut the carpet or remove the seat!

Hi Joseph, Some vehicles hav two lights for oil, one being oil level and the other being the pressure. The oil pressure light is the most common found on just about all internal combustion engines and I think common on the Nissan. If the oil pressure light is coming on it may be a defective sender switch, or low oil pressure. If when you start the engine when cold, a rattling sound can be heard, better take the vehicle to a workshop and let them advise you of the cost of repair. If the engine is quiet then you likely have a defective switch. Regards John

Oil light usually indicates LOW oil pressure.. Which will kill your engi ne and cause very expense repairs. FIRST Check oil level, If the level is good. You need to find out if the engine really has low oil pressure. A new oil pressure switch is about $8.00 you might start there. If the light still comes on its a good posibilty your car has bad oil pres.. To find out for sure you will need to install a Pressure guage and check the actual pressure.. If the Oil Level is good and you still have low oil pressure The engine has internal wear or damage.. You should not drive it till you fix the low pressure problem. rebuild or replace engine. The intermittant "jerking" can be unrelated to the oil pres problem or you engine is going away because of the pressure problem.

i presume you mean the timing belt cover ? if this schematic load sok it should help

usted se fijo si el distribudor gira cuando lo pone en marcha, si el gira y tiene positivo y negativo, tiene que ser una bobina mala , instalada adentro del distribudor, compre un distribudor usado que funsione or uno retificado por unos 160.00 dollare. cambielo y andara bien. suerte.

Try checking your fuses

-How about follow its repair manual. Good luck Mai

Dear Guest: If you have some reasonable mechanical aptitude, it is a simple task on this engine to do.
The thermostat is located near the front to the engine (the side closest to the belts) and on the side where the radiator is.
Follow the top radiator hose to the engine and you will have found the thermostat housing.
1. Make sure the engine is cool before doing this job.
2. Get a drain pan and drain the coolant from the radiator. The drain **** for the radiator is located at the bottom of the radiator. Some have an end which can be turned without tools and others require a flat screw driver to unscrew the fitting from the bottom of the radiator. Make sure you remove the radiator cap, as it will drain much faster. Once drained, put the drain **** back into the radiator. Be careful and DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT! It will snap off in the radiator!
3. Release the hose clamp which secures the hose to the thermostat housing and then grasp the hose at the neck where the clamp was and try to rotate the hose on the housing. DO NOT try to just pull the hose off. Break it loose first by rotating it on the housing. If it is stuck, get a small screw driver and carefully, slide it in between the hose and the housing, working it around until you can rotate the hose. At that point you can remove the hose and push it off to the side or take it loose at the radiator as well. CAUTION!!!!! the radiator tanks are plastic and will break if you are not careful!
4. There are 3 bolts which retain the housing to the cylinder head.
Typically the bolt head size is a 10mm. Using a 10mm socket, rotate the bolts in a counter clockwise direction, removing all three bolts. There are some that did use a 12 mm bolt head size. Most of the time the housing will just come loose. Sometimes, it will stick. If so, a light tap will break it loose. Pay attention as to how the thermostat is positioned in the cylinder head prior to removing it. Most of the time it will pop out easily or you can easily pry it out with a small screw driver. CAUTION!!!!
Do not damage the mating surface where the gasket seals.
Carefully clean the old gasket off. A single edge razor works fine.
5. The thermostat has a top and a bottom. If you look closely, you will see a place in the outer parameter of the thermostat where there is a small hole, often with a little metal tab which projects through the other side and is able to jiggle some. This is a small bleeder to help bleed the air trapped in the system when it is installed. This part of the thermostat must be at the 12:00 position.
Additionally, make sure the part with the hoop is sticking out toward you. The cylinder head has been machined to allow the thermostat to fit flush with it when installed properly.
6. Clean the old gasket from the thermostat housing. Nissan utilizes a liquid gasket sealer (silicon) which you apply a "SMALL" bead around the water inlet (the cylinder head side), let the sealer skin lightly and then put the housing in place making sure that the thermostat had remained seated during the installation. If it had come loose and you try to tighten the bolts, you will crack the thermostat housing.
7. When you tighten the thermostat housing bolts, there is a torque specification however most people don't have torque wrenches which measure in inch pounds. For those who have a torque wrench, 10mm bolts:56.4-66 inch lbs, 12mm bolts 12-14 ft lbs.
I have found that the easiest way to keep from over tightening the bolts is to grab the ratchet from the head and tighten the bolts because you don't have the leverage at that point.
8. Let the silicon dry for 10 minutes and and then fill the system back up with coolant. Reattach the hose and clamp being careful not to over tighten the hose clamp.
If you are replacing it, not more than a 50/50 mix. There is no special bleeding procedure Nissan has for this car. Just fill the radiator with coolant, turn the heater inside the car to the heat position to allow coolant flow into it as well, because it too is part of the cooling system in terms of coolant capacity. I usually fill the radiator until it shows 1/2 way up the tank. As the engine warms up,prior to the thermostat opening, more often than not, the coolant level will rise dramatically before it drops. Once the thermostats has opened top the system off, put the cap on and let it run for a while and watch for leaks. Take the car on a short loop and then recheck for leaks again. If everything has gone well, the temperature will read normal and no coolant will be leaking.
Hopefully this should be sufficient to answer your question.

Don't use the Bosch + 4 Get them out of there & use any brand you want, but the original tip configuration that came from the factory Those & many other highly advertised plugs don't work with today's ignition systems & cause problems You have to gap your plugs to what it says under the hood on a white label,I know they say don't gap but if the application is different you have too,common sense,gap has to match your vehicle specs Your best to get repair shop help You need a scanner on it & road test & look at all data to find out what you have or what needs attention.

a scan will have to be done to see if tps is correct, the trans. is in limp mode & will not go out of limp mode until codes are cleared then you can check tps, and solenoids. but first a scan of codes ....

Are you sure there are no air pockets in the cooling system ? Did you bleed all of the air out when you added coolant ?