Top 10 2001 Nissan Altima Questions & Answers

If you can't glue the handle back on, e.g. with urethane glue (gorilla glue, Elmers Nano, etc.; use as directed, cleaning lever and plastic cover with soap and water just before gluing) then you can just buy a part like Nissan 84640-9E000 (1998 Altima exact replacement; Nissan call it a Handle- Trunk & Gas Door Release.)

That will work fine as long as the gas filler door mechanism isn't messed up; go check for obstructions once you open the door, presumably by using a small locking pliers over a cloth or some rubber on the lever (or the cable wire.)

The trick is, you get to replace it with the door open; use a blade screwdriver to pry the running-board trim up, unscrew the bolt on the trim to the left and pry that off, undo some expander bolts holding the carpet across the running-board area, and wrangle the carpet away from the lever you want to replace.  Some 10mm wrench work gets the lever loose, and you tilt the loosened stuff forwards to be able to remove the cable.  Regrease the bolts and cable run as well as you can.  Thread the new handle through the carpet before you bolt it in; it's harder to set up and bolt, but you don't have to cut the carpet or remove the seat!

Dear Guest: If you have some reasonable mechanical aptitude, it is a simple task on this engine to do.
The thermostat is located near the front to the engine (the side closest to the belts) and on the side where the radiator is.
Follow the top radiator hose to the engine and you will have found the thermostat housing.
1. Make sure the engine is cool before doing this job.
2. Get a drain pan and drain the coolant from the radiator. The drain **** for the radiator is located at the bottom of the radiator. Some have an end which can be turned without tools and others require a flat screw driver to unscrew the fitting from the bottom of the radiator. Make sure you remove the radiator cap, as it will drain much faster. Once drained, put the drain **** back into the radiator. Be careful and DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT! It will snap off in the radiator!
3. Release the hose clamp which secures the hose to the thermostat housing and then grasp the hose at the neck where the clamp was and try to rotate the hose on the housing. DO NOT try to just pull the hose off. Break it loose first by rotating it on the housing. If it is stuck, get a small screw driver and carefully, slide it in between the hose and the housing, working it around until you can rotate the hose. At that point you can remove the hose and push it off to the side or take it loose at the radiator as well. CAUTION!!!!! the radiator tanks are plastic and will break if you are not careful!
4. There are 3 bolts which retain the housing to the cylinder head.
Typically the bolt head size is a 10mm. Using a 10mm socket, rotate the bolts in a counter clockwise direction, removing all three bolts. There are some that did use a 12 mm bolt head size. Most of the time the housing will just come loose. Sometimes, it will stick. If so, a light tap will break it loose. Pay attention as to how the thermostat is positioned in the cylinder head prior to removing it. Most of the time it will pop out easily or you can easily pry it out with a small screw driver. CAUTION!!!!
Do not damage the mating surface where the gasket seals.
Carefully clean the old gasket off. A single edge razor works fine.
5. The thermostat has a top and a bottom. If you look closely, you will see a place in the outer parameter of the thermostat where there is a small hole, often with a little metal tab which projects through the other side and is able to jiggle some. This is a small bleeder to help bleed the air trapped in the system when it is installed. This part of the thermostat must be at the 12:00 position.
Additionally, make sure the part with the hoop is sticking out toward you. The cylinder head has been machined to allow the thermostat to fit flush with it when installed properly.
6. Clean the old gasket from the thermostat housing. Nissan utilizes a liquid gasket sealer (silicon) which you apply a "SMALL" bead around the water inlet (the cylinder head side), let the sealer skin lightly and then put the housing in place making sure that the thermostat had remained seated during the installation. If it had come loose and you try to tighten the bolts, you will crack the thermostat housing.
7. When you tighten the thermostat housing bolts, there is a torque specification however most people don't have torque wrenches which measure in inch pounds. For those who have a torque wrench, 10mm bolts:56.4-66 inch lbs, 12mm bolts 12-14 ft lbs.
I have found that the easiest way to keep from over tightening the bolts is to grab the ratchet from the head and tighten the bolts because you don't have the leverage at that point.
8. Let the silicon dry for 10 minutes and and then fill the system back up with coolant. Reattach the hose and clamp being careful not to over tighten the hose clamp.
If you are replacing it, not more than a 50/50 mix. There is no special bleeding procedure Nissan has for this car. Just fill the radiator with coolant, turn the heater inside the car to the heat position to allow coolant flow into it as well, because it too is part of the cooling system in terms of coolant capacity. I usually fill the radiator until it shows 1/2 way up the tank. As the engine warms up,prior to the thermostat opening, more often than not, the coolant level will rise dramatically before it drops. Once the thermostats has opened top the system off, put the cap on and let it run for a while and watch for leaks. Take the car on a short loop and then recheck for leaks again. If everything has gone well, the temperature will read normal and no coolant will be leaking.
Hopefully this should be sufficient to answer your question.

I just replaced the driver's side headlamp on my 2000 nissan altima. The manual advises you to take it to a dealer or details a long process which involves removing the bumper protector -- none of this is necessary. I am not mechanically inclined and a coworker and I did it on a lunch break. Here's how:
1) Disconnect the battery by loosening the nuts that attach both the positive & negative contacts.
2) Once loose, slide off the contacts. At the base of the battery (closest to front of the car) there will be another nut that you'll need to remove (this loosens a clip which holds the battery in place)
3) Once loosened, lift out the battery which will enable you to see the headlamp connection.
4) There is a white plastic ring that attaches to the headlamp connection. Twist this to the left (about a quarter turn).
5) Once you have loosened the white ring, you should be able to gently pull out the headlamp assembly.
6) Remove the headlamp from the socket by pushing on the plastic arm which will release the lamp from the socket (sounds confusing, but once you have the piece in your hand it will make sense)
7) Insert the new lamp into the socket & slide assembly back into the hole. Note. There is a groove in the assembly which will align with a notch in the headlamp frame...you can see this by looking through from the front of the headlight cover on the outside of the car.
8) Replace the white ring and twist to the right to secure in place.
9) Replace the battery & bolt you remove.
10) Replace the positive & negative connectors (hint: don't forget to replace the plastic battery cover before you attach the connectors).

Hope this helps...let me know how you make out.

wudyzpp2003: To replace the fuel pump entails removing the rear seat bottom to expose an inspection hole cover which is in the floor. You remove the inspection hole cover and that gives you access to the top of the fuel tank and the place where you remove the pump.
On the drivers side near your knee and the hood release, is the fuse block. Remove the cover and look at the box.
If you are facing the box from the driver's seat, the second row in from the out side and the third fuse up is a 15 amp fuse. REMOVE it. That is for the fuel pump. If the pump was running and you were wanting to remove it, you need to relieve the fuel pressure. You do this by starting the engine with the fuse out, any residual pressure will be bled off.
If you look at the top of the tank where the fitting is, the collar is threaded on there like a bottle cap. A special tool is called for in Nissan's instruction's however, most Nissan tech's as well as those in the aftermarket use large channel lock pliers and exercise care in rotating the collar.
Obviously there are fuel hoses and electrical connectors to address prior to removing the collar. Once the collar is removed, you can lift the pump and sending unit right out of the tank.
NOTE: There are some match marks or alignment marks on the tank and on the top which the collar hold down. Look for them before you remove the top.
Once the pump is out of the tank it should be pretty evident how to transfer the new part.

needs a forward/rearward motor. it has two separate motors under the seat. very common and i replace them all the time. good luck

P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

What does that mean?
The catalytic converter has an oxygen sensor in front and behind it. When the vehicle is warm and running in closed loop mode, the upstream oxygen sensor waveform reading should fluctuate. The downstream O2 sensor reading should be fairly steady. Typically the P0420 code triggers the Check Engine Light if the readings of the two sensors are similar. This is indicative of (among other things) a converter that is not working as efficiently as it should be (according to specs). It is part of the vehicle emissions system.

Symptoms: You will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms.

Causes: A code P0420 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
* Leaded fuel was used where unleaded was called for
* An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly
* The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly
* Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / exhaust pipe
* Retarded spark timing
* The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings

Possible Solutions:
Need a catalytic converter? Visit our catalytic converter shopping area for the lowest price on your replacement converter!

Some suggested steps for troubleshooting a P0420 error code include:
* Check for exhaust leaks at the manifold, pipes, catalytic converter. Repair as required.
* Use a scope to diagnose the oxygen sensor operation (Tip: The oxygen sensor in front of the catalytic converter normally has a fluctuating waveform. The waveform of the sensor behind the converter should be more steady).
* Inspect the downstream heated oxygen sensor (HO2), replace if necessary
* Replace the catalytic converter

One thing to note is that many vehicle manufacturers offer a longer warranty on emissions-related parts. So if you have a newer car but it's out of it's bumper-to-bumper warranty, there still may be warranty on this type of problem. Many manufacturers give a five year, unlimited mileage warranty on these items. It's worth checking into.



First thing you should change is your mechanic then do the following:
* If car was not giving you any trouble just light was bothering you then
you should have erase ECU-DTC code you can do by using diagnostic tool, Your light would have gone.

Second, check your MAF sensor some time if MAF sensor is disturb for any reason its upsets O2 Sensor.

Things to check on your MAF sensor there should be small diode is it present if it is then try to clean your MAF sensor with CARB cleaner or Brake cleaner, is there any leek on molding which is holding sensor inside MAF body, if there is a leek then I will suggest change your MAF sensor

You may find MAF sensor for less cost from any salvage yard.

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nissan matic D or dextron III/ mercon atf can be used also

Hi, my name is Shaun. I have a diagram here that may be able to help you. Assuming you have the 2.4 Liter engine that was standard for that year.The ECT is the item listed in the lower left corner. It is located on the left-rear side of the motor, just under the fuel rail. Hope this helps. Have a great day!

DTC P1441 - Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve
Codes is for a very small leak code, usually the gas cap is the most common problem. Even if the cap looks ok it may need to be replaced. Als check the next items:
- Incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve.
- Incorrect fuel filler cap used.
- Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close
- Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap.
- Leak is in line between intake manifold and EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve.
- Foreign matter caught in EVAP canister vent control valve.
- EVAP canister or fuel tank leaks.
- EVAP purge line (Pipe and rubber tube) leaks.
- EVAP purge line rubber tube bent.
- Blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor.
- Loose or disconnected rubber tube.
- EVAP canister vent control valve and the circuit.

Te same problem we foudn in a Sentra 1.8L, then removed the vacuum cut valve bypass valve and tested it. With no voltage across the terminal we could blow through one hose and it comes out the other, with voltage we can feel the unit buzzing (it is essentially an electromagnet) but still no change, airflow is not stopped. Pulled the metal cage off and plunger dropped out. The exterior sealing o-ring looks okay. It seems like the plunger isn't sealing off internally when the coil is energized, even if pressed the plunger down by hand with good force it would not seal. That said I think I can safely state that this item is defective and the cause of the check engine code.

Our minimal issue is that the local Nissan dealer wants over $100 for solve this, that is a fairly common problem. If you can't seem to find an online source for this part,I suggest visit some junkyard.

Keep in mind that the P1441 is a very hard code to diagnose, as it's very "general". There are a list of things that can cause this code, and there is a Technical Service Bulletin issued by Nissan that states it can even be faulty ECM (on-board computer) programming.





COMPONENT DESCRIPTION
The vacuum cut valve and vacuum cut valve bypass valve are installed in parallel on the EVAP purge line between the fuel tank and the EVAP canister.

The vacuum cut valve prevents the intake manifold vacuum from being applied to the fuel tank.

The vacuum cut valve bypass valve is a solenoid type valve and generally remains closed. It opens only for on board diagnosis.

The vacuum cut valve bypass valve responds to signals from the ECM. When the ECM sends an ON (ground) signal, the valve is opened. The vacuum cut valve is then bypassed to apply intake manifold vacuum to the fuel tank.

Here are the reasons that can cause this failure code:



This diagnostic process will require a scantool with advanced diagnostic capabilities. The vacuum bypass valve is more than likely the problem, but I cannot be sure until all of the components are properly tested. You can try to replace the valve but I cannot guarantee that this will solve your issue.

After that you replace this device, if the light goes out and stays off for 200-300 miles, then the vehicle will pass inspection. The vehicle must complete a drive cycle after the light goes off so that it will pass inspection. This is an emission issue, and will not cause any issue with driveability.
You should be able to remove the valve without dropping the rear suspension, but it is a tight fit. I would suggest a swivel socket to remove the bolts that hold the valve on.

Hope this helps.

DTC P1441 means a warning about EVAP system flow during non purge condition.

This deals with the purge solenoid, vent solenoid, charcoal canister, all the vacuum lines in this system, as well as the gas cap. Any one of these components may contribute to this code being set. All the wiring should be tested including the connectors for any problems. Vacuum lines should be checked for cracks or loose connections. The canister may be damaged or not working properly.

However, the most common cause of this code on nissans is the evap vent control valve. It is located on the evap canister, under the rear of the car by the gas tank. Its the only electrical device attached to the canister itself.

Previously, there's a few things to check here. If you are sure that you don't have a wiring harness problem (these are notorious for the harness wearing through) then you need to check both the components that the code covers. This code covers both the vacuum cut valve bypass valve (the electronic solenoid) and the vacuum cut valve itself (small round plastic valve.) Here's a picture of both of them attached to each other:



If you are absolutely sure that the electronic solenoid is doing it's job, and that none of the hoses are pinched or blocked, you need to check the vacuum cut valve for functionality. Here's how you do that:



1. Plug port (C) and (D) with fingers.
2. Apply vacuum to port (A) and check that there is no suction from port (B).
3. Apply vacuum to port (B) and check that there is suction from port (A).
4. Blow air in port (B) and check that there is a resistance to flow out of port (A).
5. Open port (C) and (D).
6. Blow air in port (A) check that air flows freely out of port (C).
7. Blow air in port (B) check that air flows freely out of port (D).

Also check to make sure that all hoses are going to the correct places.

Keep in mind that the P1441 is a very hard code to diagnose, as it's very "general". There are a list of things that can cause this code, and there is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) issued by Nissan that states it can even be faulty ECM (Engine Control Module or On-board computer) programming.

Here is a list of possilble causes:
Incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve
Incorrect fuel filler cap used
Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close.
Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap.
Leak is in line between intake manifold and EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve.
Foreign matter caught in EVAP canister vent control valve.
EVAP canister or fuel tank leaks
EVAP purge line (pipe and rubber tube) leaks
EVAP purge line rubber tube bent.
Blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor
Loose or disconnected rubber tube
EVAP canister vent control valve and the circuit
EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve
Absolute pressure sensor
Fuel tank temperature sensor
O-ring of EVAP canister vent control valve is missing or damaged.
Water separator
EVAP canister is saturated with water.
Fuel level sensor and the circuit
EVAP control system pressure sensor

Here is the TSB issued by Nissan...
Classification: EC00-018a
Reference: NTB00-059A
Date: August 30, 2000

2001 PATHFINDER; MIL "ON" DTC P1441 (EVAP VERY SMALL LEAK) STORED IN SELF DIAGNOSIS RESULTS
APPLIED VEHICLE: 2001 Pathfinder(R50)
SERVICE INFORMATION
If an applied vehicle has a MIL "ON" with DTC P1441 (EVAP Very Small Leak) stored in Engine Self Diagnosis results, the cause may be the ECM program.

There is an updated ECM program available to address this incident if it should occur.

Hope this helps; keep us updated about your advance.