20 Most Recent 2001 Chevrolet Silverado - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Only rust

Hit it with the end of a 2x4

The air pump will only run for about thirty seconds on start up to run a self test, it will the run under normal conditions whenever the computer deems nessicary, if you have an airpump related code you most likely have an or vaccine leak somewhere

cannot switch from defrost to panel airflow 2001 chevy silverado

when you push pedal hard & pedal goes to floor does brake light come on?
assuming brake fluid leval is ok & didnt run empty have you checked for a leak?
pulling all wheels & inspecting brakes,cylinders, calipers,& lines for leaks.
does the pedal pump up & feel ok with engine running?if so there is air in the system
if it does'nt change the way the pedal feels & no leaks are found & brake linings are ok & adjusted
properly than your master cylinder is leaking internally & needs to be replaced

this is an obd2 trouble code table, and it can help you understand the meaning of code.
You should be able to identify it bank 2 sai check valve is located inline to the tube going to your passenger side exhaust manifold, should use some penetrating oil, one side has a rubber tube going to it, the other is metal, and will require the use of two wrenches to replace.

Removal Procedure

Caution: Allow the engine to cool before servicing the secondary air injection AIR system in order to reduce the chance of severe burns.
1. Remove the clamp from the check valve.
2. Disconnect the AIR hose from the check valve.
3. Remove the check valve from the left side AIR pipe.
4. Remove the left AIR pipe from the exhaust manifold.
5. Before replacing a check valve, test the valve for proper operation.
5.1. Install a vacuum pump to the nipple side of the check valve, AIR pump side.

5.2. Pump the vacuum pump to 10 inches Hg and observe the gauge.

5.3. Replace the check valve if the vacuum bleeds down to zero within 5 seconds.


Installation Procedure

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

1.Install the check valve onto the AIR pipe.
Tighten the check valve to the AIR pipe to 23 N·m (17 lb ft).
2.Connect the AIR pipe to the exhaust manifold.
Tighten the AIR pipe to the exhaust manifold to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
3. Install the AIR hose to the check valve.
4. Install the check valve clamp.

Removal Procedure

Caution: Allow the engine to cool before servicing the secondary air injection AIR system in order to reduce the chance of severe burns.
1. Remove the clamp from the check valve.
2. Disconnect the AIR hose from the check valve.
3. Remove the check valve from the left side AIR pipe.
4. Remove the left AIR pipe from the exhaust manifold.
5. Before replacing a check valve, test the valve for proper operation.
5.1. Install a vacuum pump to the nipple side of the check valve, AIR pump side.

5.2. Pump the vacuum pump to 10 inches Hg and observe the gauge.

5.3. Replace the check valve if the vacuum bleeds down to zero within 5 seconds.


Installation Procedure

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

1.Install the check valve onto the AIR pipe.
Tighten the check valve to the AIR pipe to 23 N·m (17 lb ft).
2.Connect the AIR pipe to the exhaust manifold.
Tighten the AIR pipe to the exhaust manifold to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
3. Install the AIR hose to the check valve.
4. Install the check valve clamp.

There is one on each side.

Hello: Have you recently had any work done to it ? It may need a tune up.That includes spark plugs, spark plug wires, and a distributor cap, and (rotor if applicable).You may have a bad or cracked spark plug wire causing the spark to jump once in awhile.

This actually depneds on which one you need to change. Each side of the engine will have considered the number one sensor but you will also need to know whether you need bank 1 or 2. Bank one has the number one cylinder/spark plug. Let me know if you need anything else.

There are a couple of relay locations. There is one in the engine compartment located on the left inner fender. You will have to remove a cover to see the fuses and relays. I believe there is another panel with some relays inside the cab on the firewall behind the foot pedals on the left. Again you will have to remove a cover to see them. Not sure where the horn relay is located. If you still have your owners manual it should identify all of the fuses and relays. They are easy to replace, you just pull them out like a fuse and put a new one in. Use a test light if you have one to see if you have voltage at the horn when the horn button is pushed and check any grounds your horn might have. If you have voltage at the horn maybe the new horn is bad also. That can happen.

I would inspect your distributor closely. Remove the cap and rotor. Underneath the rotor there is a piece that is common for cracking. I can't remember the name of that piece. It is made out of a ceramic type material. Inspect it closely. If you notice any cracking you will need to replace the distrubutor shaft which will have the piece already on it. Or if you don't want to mess with it you can buy a remanned distributor. Your injectors receive the signal to pulse from your distibutor so if your injector wires look good that is where I would start. Be sure to check your fuses. How are you checking for power at the injectors? You should be using what is called a noid light. You simply unplug an injector and plug the noid light in. You then turn the engine over and if the light flashes you are getting power. Also you should check your fuel pressure. You may have fuel there but if it is not enough pressure that could be causing you grief. If I remember correctly you should have about 11-13 psi.

i would call around to different wrecking yards to see who has one and how much for it,they may want the one you removed back as a core charge or some thing.

A loose piston wrist pin will seize an engine up and sounds like thats what happened tp yours.
If the crankshaft can not be turned by hand it has internal damage

there are 2 L shape pins on each head light to open just turn both counter clock wise then lift then the headlight should pop out.