2001 Chevrolet Silverado - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

when you push pedal hard & pedal goes to floor does brake light come on?
assuming brake fluid leval is ok & didnt run empty have you checked for a leak?
pulling all wheels & inspecting brakes,cylinders, calipers,& lines for leaks.
does the pedal pump up & feel ok with engine running?if so there is air in the system
if it does'nt change the way the pedal feels & no leaks are found & brake linings are ok & adjusted
properly than your master cylinder is leaking internally & needs to be replaced

this is an obd2 trouble code table, and it can help you understand the meaning of code.
You should be able to identify it bank 2 sai check valve is located inline to the tube going to your passenger side exhaust manifold, should use some penetrating oil, one side has a rubber tube going to it, the other is metal, and will require the use of two wrenches to replace.

Removal Procedure

Caution: Allow the engine to cool before servicing the secondary air injection AIR system in order to reduce the chance of severe burns.
1. Remove the clamp from the check valve.
2. Disconnect the AIR hose from the check valve.
3. Remove the check valve from the left side AIR pipe.
4. Remove the left AIR pipe from the exhaust manifold.
5. Before replacing a check valve, test the valve for proper operation.
5.1. Install a vacuum pump to the nipple side of the check valve, AIR pump side.

5.2. Pump the vacuum pump to 10 inches Hg and observe the gauge.

5.3. Replace the check valve if the vacuum bleeds down to zero within 5 seconds.


Installation Procedure

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

1.Install the check valve onto the AIR pipe.
Tighten the check valve to the AIR pipe to 23 N·m (17 lb ft).
2.Connect the AIR pipe to the exhaust manifold.
Tighten the AIR pipe to the exhaust manifold to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
3. Install the AIR hose to the check valve.
4. Install the check valve clamp.

Removal Procedure

Caution: Allow the engine to cool before servicing the secondary air injection AIR system in order to reduce the chance of severe burns.
1. Remove the clamp from the check valve.
2. Disconnect the AIR hose from the check valve.
3. Remove the check valve from the left side AIR pipe.
4. Remove the left AIR pipe from the exhaust manifold.
5. Before replacing a check valve, test the valve for proper operation.
5.1. Install a vacuum pump to the nipple side of the check valve, AIR pump side.

5.2. Pump the vacuum pump to 10 inches Hg and observe the gauge.

5.3. Replace the check valve if the vacuum bleeds down to zero within 5 seconds.


Installation Procedure

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

1.Install the check valve onto the AIR pipe.
Tighten the check valve to the AIR pipe to 23 N·m (17 lb ft).
2.Connect the AIR pipe to the exhaust manifold.
Tighten the AIR pipe to the exhaust manifold to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
3. Install the AIR hose to the check valve.
4. Install the check valve clamp.

There is one on each side.

Hello: Have you recently had any work done to it ? It may need a tune up.That includes spark plugs, spark plug wires, and a distributor cap, and (rotor if applicable).You may have a bad or cracked spark plug wire causing the spark to jump once in awhile.

This actually depneds on which one you need to change. Each side of the engine will have considered the number one sensor but you will also need to know whether you need bank 1 or 2. Bank one has the number one cylinder/spark plug. Let me know if you need anything else.

There are a couple of relay locations. There is one in the engine compartment located on the left inner fender. You will have to remove a cover to see the fuses and relays. I believe there is another panel with some relays inside the cab on the firewall behind the foot pedals on the left. Again you will have to remove a cover to see them. Not sure where the horn relay is located. If you still have your owners manual it should identify all of the fuses and relays. They are easy to replace, you just pull them out like a fuse and put a new one in. Use a test light if you have one to see if you have voltage at the horn when the horn button is pushed and check any grounds your horn might have. If you have voltage at the horn maybe the new horn is bad also. That can happen.

I would inspect your distributor closely. Remove the cap and rotor. Underneath the rotor there is a piece that is common for cracking. I can't remember the name of that piece. It is made out of a ceramic type material. Inspect it closely. If you notice any cracking you will need to replace the distrubutor shaft which will have the piece already on it. Or if you don't want to mess with it you can buy a remanned distributor. Your injectors receive the signal to pulse from your distibutor so if your injector wires look good that is where I would start. Be sure to check your fuses. How are you checking for power at the injectors? You should be using what is called a noid light. You simply unplug an injector and plug the noid light in. You then turn the engine over and if the light flashes you are getting power. Also you should check your fuel pressure. You may have fuel there but if it is not enough pressure that could be causing you grief. If I remember correctly you should have about 11-13 psi.

i would call around to different wrecking yards to see who has one and how much for it,they may want the one you removed back as a core charge or some thing.

A loose piston wrist pin will seize an engine up and sounds like thats what happened tp yours.
If the crankshaft can not be turned by hand it has internal damage

there are 2 L shape pins on each head light to open just turn both counter clock wise then lift then the headlight should pop out.

i just fixed mine, there may be a loose connection at the headlight switch.

The 8.1 motor has 2 on the outside of the block one by the starter and one on the opposite side

The knock sensors are located in the rocker valley underneath the intake manifold. GEt a hynes manual to assist you in replacing them. There is acertain tightening sequence when taking the manifold on and off. It is made of a composite plastic so use care and do not over tighten.

COULD BE SHORT IN FUEL PUMP WIRES OR YOU HAVE BAD FUEL PUMP RELAY OR PCM IS FAULTY COMMAND CIRCUIT IS NOT DRIVING THE FUEL PUMP RELAY OR FUEL PUMP.

SOUND LIKE A SENDING UNIT PROBLEM! YOU MAY NEED TO REPLACE IT AT THE TANK!

is it in defrost only check on the passager side under the hood the electric wire that gi truh the fire wall should have a vacumm line it probably disconnect near the engine

First If you haven't had a tune up for a while try that and change the fuel filter.Then if your still having problems check you pressure at the fuel rail for the correct fuel pressure.This is done by hooking up a fuel pressure gauge to the shreader valve that's on the fuel rail.This will tell you if you have a bad pump or pressure regulator by the fluctuation in pressures.If you have access to a Chilton's manual it will give you the pump pressure required.

It's when the security light starts flashing that the infamous "chip" in the key becomes a nightmare to many. Gradually the car begins not cranking anymore or if it cranks it would start and die in a second. Randomly it will do this more and more often until it won't start anymore. VATS, PASSkey and Passlock immobilizer systems are killing cars all over North America, they have a short lifespan and are certainly more effective against owners than thieves. Here is how you save your car
1st trick, Try a spare key that is newer or used less. The pins wear down and so do the keys causing security fail. 2nd trick, (if not starting) turn the key forward 2 clicks till right before it would normally start, leave like that for 10 minutes. ( no less ) After 10 minutes, turn key back then forward and your car might start. I did this in my regal for more than a year. If its shutting down while running, im sorry i have no quick fix... If anything on this page helps you, please remember to comment or give me a thumbs up on the myfixya sight so i can have a better rating to help more people on this. Thanks

Cheap fix: Bypass the chip in your key. Temporary, but effective. Until the TDM (theft deterrent module) in the dash poops out, then you're kinda screwed. I was told that these types of key security systems have a 7-10 year life span. Sucks for us. This link explains the "Key Issue" pretty well.
----- http://vats.likeabigdog.com/


Never worry again fix: Bypass the whole VATS/Passlock/passkey I or passkey II system entirely. Literally take it out, and throw it away. I just did this in my Regal. Took about an hour. Took longer to find the thing than it did to fix the problem. They sell a unit for 200 bucks to totally bypass this system FOREVER. life time-money back and all that. Finally did this in my car. Well worth the 200 if you've looked into getting this replaced... Anywhere from 600-1000 bucks. If you do buy this, please purchase it thru this link. The cost is the same, but i get credit for the sale and im trying to earn my money back, as you will be able to do if you buy fron NewRockies and join the free affiliate program. Thanks
----- http://newrockies.ca?ap_id=judd0081 ----- With this fix, you can take that whole Vats, passlock, passkey system out of your car all together. Good info on both sites.

It works for:
Any GM or Isuzu Vehicle with VATS or PASSKey or PASSLock security systems.
If your car has the chip in the key or in the lock cylinder, then you can save it with this Full Bypass.
Trucks
.
GMC/Chevy
1998-2006 S10/T10/Sonoma
/Blazer/Jimmy
1998-2007 Suburban/Avalanche
/Tahoe/Yukon
1998-2006 Sierra/Silverado
2002-2008 Trailblazer
2003-2006 SSR
1998-2006 C1500/C2500/C3500
1998-2006 K1500/K2500/K3500
2003-2007 Hummer H2
.
Isuzu
1998-2000 Hombre
2005-2006 I280/I350
2007-2008 I290/I370
.
Cars/Vans
.
Isuzu
2003-2007 Ascender
.
Pontiac
1994-2003 Grand Prix
1998-1999 Montana
2006 Torrent
1996-2005 Grand AM
1994-1998 Trans Sports
1988-1999 Bonneville
1988-2002 Firebird
1995-2005 Sunfire
1996-2002 Trans Am
.
Buick
2004-2007 Rainier
1994-2005 Century
1993-2004 Regal
1982-1999 LeSabre
1991-1996 Park Avenue / Ultra
1994-1996 Roadmaster
1991-1996 Roadmaster Estate Wagon
1982-1999 Riviera
1988-1991 Reatta
1996-1998 Skylark
1982-1990 Electra (all models)
.
Oldsmobile
1996-1998 Achieva
1999-2004 Alero
1994-2004 Aurora
1998-2004 Bravada
1991-1993 Delta 88
1994-1999 Eighty-Eight
1991-1996 Nighty-Eight
1998-2002 Intrigue
1990-1992 Toronado
1994-1997 Cutlass Supreme
1997-1999 Cutlass
1997-1999 LSS/Regency
1997-1999 Silhouette
1991-1996 Custom Cruiser
.
Chevrolet/GMC
1998-2005 Astro/Safari
1998-2008 Envoy
2005-2006 Equinox
1998-2007 Savana/Express
1995-2005 Monte Carlo
1997-1999 Venture
1995-2001 Lumina
1988-2002 Camaro
1995-2005 Cavalier
1982-2004 Corvette
1994-1996 Caprice/Caprice Wagon
1995-1996 Impala SS
2000-2005 Impala
1997-2005 Malibu Classic
1997-2003 Malibu
.
Cadillac
1986-1993 Allante
1982-1996 Fleetwood
1985-1996 Fleetwood Brougham
1992-2004 Seville
1992-2004 SLS/STS
1985-1999 Deville
1994-1999 Deville Concours
1997-1999 Deville D'Elegance
1988-2002 ElDorado
1994-2002 ElDorado Touring
1999-2007 Escalade
.
Saturn
2000 LS/LS1/LS2/LW1/LW2
2001-2002 L100/LW100
2001-2003 L200/LW200
2001-2005 L300/LW300
2004-2005 L-Series
2002-2008 VUE
1996-2002 SL/SL1/SL2
1996-2002 SC1/SC2
1996-2002 SW1/SW2

Sounds like the sending unit in the tank is bad.