1998 Dodge Neon - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

SOHC



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DOHC

your best bet is to go to your local part store they give for free

maybe your thermostat did not open . was stuck then open allowing coolant to flow normal

Booster is okay, you have to bench bleed the MC, first. So, since it is installed, bleed it with a kit from the parts store, little plastic hoses screw in to the brake hose fittings, and put other end under fluid in reservoir. pump slowly, especially wait at end of release, for fluid to refill piston chamber....pump until no bubbles...

FROM THIS POINT you must not allow fluid in reservoir to go low, or start all over again....

Now bleed the brakes and you will eventually get pressure.

with a hammer

There are 2 straps holding the tank in place, remove the 2 nuts in front of tank and lower straps, lower tank and disconnect the harness, disconnect the gas tank filler tube, slide the tank out to a spot you can work on it, use a screw driver to use as a way to push (rotate) the lock ring in top of tank, remove the seal and be careful not to drop in the tank, while down drain and clean the tank best you can, reverse the order after installing new fuel pump. Little tip, the fuel level sensor (the long bar with flapper attached to the fuel pump) has been know to get stuck and break off while puling out of the tank. Biggest thing here is patience!! take your time, the neon is a fairly easy job, no exhaust removal is needed

Sounds like you may have crossed a wire and perhaps blown a fuse..
have you checked your fuse box? If not, you may also still have a crossed wire or otherwise a short existing somewhere.. retrace your steps and take a closer look around you will find either a short or otherwise a wire which may be unplugged...
Ck

Lift the front of the car if you can. Makes it easier. turn the steering wheel 10 to 20 times. all the way left , then right, this will purge most of the air. the rest will come out in a couple of days. and this is if you haven't aireated the fluid already. (pink in color). If you have then it will take a couple of days to purge.

Are these guys SERIOUS??




The alternator is accessed from UNDER the vehicle LEFT SIDE facing the engine bay.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION




1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Loosen, but do not remove the alternator adjusting nut.

3. Turn the front wheels completely to the right, then raise and safely support the vehicle.

4. Unfasten the retainers, then remove the plastic lower splash shield.

5. Unfasten the alternator field circuit wiring connector. You must squeeze the locking tab to release it.

6. Remove the B+ terminal nut and wire.

7. Loosen the alternator pivot bolt, but do not remove it.

8. Remove the alternator drive belt. The alternator spill shield does not have to be removed.

9. If necessary, remove the bottom pivot bolt and anti-rotation tab.

10. Unfasten the three mounting pivot bracket bolts, then remove the pivot bolt and bracket.

11. Holding the alternator in one hand, remove the adjustment nut then slide the alternator off the T-bolt. The T-bolt does not have to be removed. Lower the alternator and remove through the wheel well.

12. You may need to use a C-clamp to drive the sleeve into the mounting ear for installation clearance.

13. Position the alternator in the vehicle, sliding it onto the T-bolt. Install the adjusting nut.

14. Install the bracket and pivot bolt, then install the three mounting pivot bracket bolts. Tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).

15. If removed, install the anti-rotation tab and bottom pivot bolt hand-tight.

16. Install the alternator drive belt.

17. Tighten the alternator pivot bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).

18. Install the B+ terminal wire and nut. Tighten the nut to 75 inch lbs. (9 Nm).

19. Attach the alternator field circuit wiring connector, making sure the locking tabs are engaged.

20. Install the splash shield, then carefully lower the vehicle.

21. Tighten the adjusting nut.

22. Connect the negative battery cable. Adjust the alternator belt.

Thanks!!

It's low coolant. The engine has an air pocket in it. Check your coolant level for a few days and fill as necessary

You should be able to get one at any auto parts store. probably even at Walmart.You may need to know the size of the frost plug hole in the block to get the right one.
Measure across the easiest one to see and work on because that is where you should put it. Hope this helps.

bad fan motor

If it's not like the one you took off , then it's not the right one. Take it back with the old one and have it matched.

oil sending unit, the unit screws into the block and has one wire coming out of it, if not then check the oil filter, make shure its tight,,, good luck

This means that the SRS system has been interrupted and you will need to take it to the dealer to have it reset. It is a common issue on most cars and the bad thing is that it can cost from 30-60 dollars to reset unless you have a friend with a diagnostic machine or a buddy that is a mechanic.

You can try taking off the negative connection of the battery for about 30 minutes as that will reset them sometimes, but no guarantees.

Look under the car and see. It should be accessible.

Sounds like you need to replace the clutch.

As it's no start then first thing to get checked is starter. The battery to starter connection. If the battery to starter connection is got loose then this will not let the engine to start. First check the battery to starter connection. If the connection checked out ok, then check the voltage to the starter terminals, If its working then it will show 12 volts, If its faulty then starter has to be replaced. But if the starter is checked out ok. Then yes the fusible link needs to be checked.

1) The charging system is protected by a 12 gauge fusible link located in the A11 circuit.

2) This fusible link is between the alternator/generator and the starter.

3) The generator ground is provided through a case ground in the generator to its attaching bracket.

4) This generator uses a voltage regulator internal to the Power train Control Module (PCM) .when the vehicle is running; battery voltage is applied to the generator field terminal through the A142 circuit.

5) This circuit is the output from the contact side of the Automatic Shut down (ASD) relay. The ground, or voltage regulated side, of the generator field is controlled by the K20 circuit which connects to cavity 4 of the PCM connector.

6) When there is current present in the field, and the rotor is turning, the stator in the generator produces a B+ voltage that is supplied to the battery through the A11 and A0 circuits. The A11 circuit is connected to the output terminal of the generator and connects to the engine starter motor battery feed terminal.

7) The A0 circuit is a direct feed line from the battery and connects to the engine starter motor. Grounding for the system is accomplished at the battery negative terminal. These grounds connect to the engine and body.

Tip: --- Inspect for a blown fusible link in the A11 circuit between the generator and the starter motor. Get this checked. But if all checked out ok then the park neutral switch has to be rechecked, if its faulty then it has to be replaced. Check the voltage to the battery, it should show 12 volts. If it's low then this is due to low battery voltage.

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This should help. Thanks. Helpmech.

run a diagnostic

Helo this should help you out alot happy new year.