20 Most Recent 2004 Dodge Ram - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Correct this because it is not normal!

You would need to inspect the vents underneath the dash. Start first the part at the driver side to the evaporator. The evaporator is a part of the AC found inside the car which cools the air. The warm air is then delivered separately in the vents via a door called a blend door controlled by an actuator/motor. It is found towards the center of the dashboard from the passenger side. The door may be faulty. Check also for the wiring.

Below is a reference video which you can use.

the sending unit could be bad or the guage could be bad. This can be checked with a hand held computer. Since you replaced everything else this is the most likely problem. One thing is that the block could be clogged, but yours is to new.

Follow the hose from the bottom of the radiator. this is the housing and has to bolts. Torque spec I believe is 10 ft-lbs.

Dodge Dakota 3.7L v6:

Fig. ECT sensor location-3.7L, 4.7L engines.

Back to Top Inspect/Test/Replace Because ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor procedures vary depending upon their location, first locate the part. You may need to partially drain the engine coolant to prevent coolant spillage.

• Disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Unplug the ECT.
• Then, unscrew it.
• Reverse the removal procedures to install the new part.
• Connect the negative battery cable to the battery.

If the window lock-out swich located on the drivers side door master switch is in the off or un-lock position, then the problem will be a broken wire or wires in the weather boot that runs between the door and the body of the vehicle. Any broken wires that you find should be repaired by soldering them well, use the same gage wire to lengthen any broken wires in order to successfully solder them, and do not use wire connectors if you want the connection to last.

low beam kigth out on driver side replaced balb an still dont work this is om my 2004 dodge ram 1500

Most likely a bad thermostat. Any leaks? Check your water pump for leaks and make sure fan belt that runs waterpump is tight and not Glazed

Hello exlinejeremy and thank you for asking your question, on Fixya.

Here is a simple process that will walk you through a few steps that will pinpoint the overheating problem on your 2004 Dodge Ram, without even using any tools. It has helped millions of people, and I am certain that it will help you, because I wrote it for people like you. So here is the link:
How to diagnose your overheating 2004 Dodge Ram
You might want to pay close attention to the thermostat or radiator sections of these instructions.

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Thanks for the vote, and good luck!

Had the truck the truck to the shop and they said it was the sensor. I had it replaced and it hasn't screwed up since. If you search out this problem on the net, this is a problem with engine and its oil pressure sensor. Apparently, Chrysler is aware of the problem.

Disarm the Supplemental RestraintSystem (SRS) (airbag) Remove the airbag assembly. Partially remove the steering wheel retaining bolt. Leave the bolt in the column to push on it. Install a steering wheel puller.(Available at almost any parts store) Remove steering wheel puller, steering wheel and bolt once steering wheel has popped loose from the steering shaft.

try sensor first ( its much cheaper ) but wile you have the sensor out screw a manual gage in the hole and get an acreate reading on the oil psi.......KEEP IT CLEAN SEE YA

your vehicle has a "integrated power module". its a fancy name for a smart fuse box. What likely happened is there is a problem with the trailer wiring. The power module detected the fault and shut down the running lights. The power module will need to be reset at the dealer.

Fuse 15 is a 50 amp fuse for the park lamp relay
Fuse 32 and 34 are 10 amp fuses for the right and left park lights
Fuse 33 is a 10 amp fuse for the trailer park lights.

After it is reset I would not plug in the trailer until the fault is located and repaired. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Hi!!

IT SEEMS LIKE YOU HAVE A SHORT IN THE HEATING GRID, EITHER THE MIRRORS OR THE BACK WINDOW.

READ THE FOLLOWING INFO. AND PERFORM THE TESTS TO PINPOINT THE FAULT.

OUTSIDE MIRROR HEATING GRID
Vehicles equipped with the optional heated mirror
system have an electric heating grid located behind
the mirror glass of each outside rear view mirror.
The heated mirrors are controlled by the rear window
defogger switch. Electrical current is directed to
the heating grid inside the mirror only when the rear
window defogger switch is in the On position.
The heating grid behind each outside mirror glass
cannot be repaired and, if faulty or damaged, the
entire power mirror unit must be replaced.

DEFOGGER SWITCH
The rear window defogger switch is integral to the
rear window switch pod, which includes the rear
wiper and washer switches. The rear window switch
pod is installed in the instrument panel lower bezel,
which is located near the center of the lower instrument
panel, below the heater and air conditioner controls.
The rear window switch pod also contains the rear
window defogger logic and timer circuitry, an amber
defogger indicator lamp, the rear window defogger
relay, and two switch illumination lamps. The indicator
and illumination lamps in the switch pod use
incandescent bulbs, which can be serviced.

The momentary-type rear window defogger switch
provides a hard wired ground signal to the rear window
defogger logic and timer circuitry, each time it is
depressed. The rear window defogger timer and logic
circuitry responds by energizing or de-energizing the
rear window defogger relay and the amber defogger
indicator lamp, which lights to indicate when the
defogger system is turned On. Energizing the rear
window defogger relay provides electrical current to
the rear window defogger grid.

The rear window switch pod cannot be repaired. If
any function of the switch pod except lighting is
faulty or damaged, the entire switch pod must be
replaced.

Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Set
the defogger switch in the On position. The rear window
defogger operation can be checked by feeling the
rear window or outside rear view mirror glass. A distinct
difference in temperature between the grid lines
and the adjacent clear glass or the mirror glass can
be detected within three to four minutes of operation.

Using a 12-volt DC voltmeter, contact the rear
glass heating grid terminal A (right side) with the
negative lead, and terminal B (left side) with the positive
lead (Fig. 1). The voltmeter should read battery
voltage.

The above checks will confirm system operation.
Illumination of the defogger switch indicator lamp
means that there is electrical current available at the
output of the rear window defogger logic and timer
circuitry, but does not confirm that the electrical current
is reaching the rear glass heating grid lines.

If the defogger system does not operate, the problem
should be isolated in the following manner:

(1) Confirm that the ignition switch is in the On
position.
(2) Ensure that the rear glass heating grid feed
and ground wires are connected to the glass. Confirm
that the ground wire has continuity to ground.
(3) Check the fuses in the Power Distribution Center
(PDC) and in the junction block. The fuses must
be tight in their receptacles and all electrical connections
must be secure.

When the above steps have been completed and the
rear glass heating grid is still inoperative, one or
more of the following is faulty:
Rear window switch pod
Rear window grid lines (all grid lines would
have to be broken or one of the feed wires disconnected
for the entire system to be inoperative).
If setting the defogger switch to the On position
produces a severe voltmeter deflection, check for a
short circuit between the rear window switch pod
defogger relay output and the rear glass heating grid.