1993 Ford Ranger SuperCab - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check and see if the is a drain plug at the back, bottom or side of the trany, open plug and let drain and then replace gear oil. Other plug will be half way up on the side of the trany.

you went down a pathm but unfortunatley a dead end, was the cat. converter noisy, like loose pebbles....just curious......anyhow, it could either be a fuel starvation problem or electrical cut-out caused by tune-up, im not sure whether you service the car on a regular basis, but based on the age of the vehicle, certain inherent problems are going to occur, and tender loving care will be required

i hope this helps
email me back with more info if i can help

I have honestly never replaced brakes on a Ford Ranger but front disc brake pads are fairly simple to R & R. You either need a large allen wrench or a socket and ratchet. The socket size is probably 14mm or 9/16. You can use the tire iron and jack for your spare to remove the lug nuts on the wheel and jack up the truck. You should really use a floor jack and jack stands. Either way keep your body and limbs out from under the truck. Usually there are 2 caliper pins or bolts to remove. pull off the caliper and use a "C" clamp to compress the caliper pistons into the caliper completely and do not use anything but a clamp or you will never get it to depress. Keep the old brake pad in there on the piston side as a buffer between the clamp and the piston and it will help evenly disperse the pressure on the piston. Lube up the pins before you install them or they will be a nightmare to get out again. Vent the system by loosening the cap on the master cylinder to make the piston easier to depress. Let me know if I can help any further. Please rate me on this answer.

NO THERE IS NO FUSE THAT WOULD CAUSE THIS, EVEN IF THE TRANSMISSION HAD NO POWER TO IT IT WOULD GO INTO LOW AND REVERSE BUT NOT SHIFT PAST THAT, U HAVE A MECHANICAL FAILURE INSIDE THE TRANS, U WILL NEED TO REPLACE IT OR OVERHAUL IT.

probably the motor but chaeck this first G3 CHECK CIRCUIT 58 FOR BATTERY VOLTAGE

• Unplug wire harness connector.

• Set wiper switch on low.

• Check Circuit 58 for battery voltage key on.
  
  
  
  

Voltage OK
CHECK for malfunctioning wiper motor. Perform low speed current draw test. SERVICE as required.
Voltage not OK
CHECK for:

• Open connector.
• Malfunctioning switch.
• Malfunctioning governor.
• Open wire Circuit 58 (W).

If it is the four cylinder,it may have jumped time,if not,check the spark plugs to see if they are fouled out.

I found this website, hope it helps.
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/1993-ford-ranger--timing-marks-vt341394.html

2wd or 4wd? The 4wd requires a special socket you should be able to borrow from the parts store.

keep alive memory is required to save all the adjustments the coputer has made to compensate for engine wear/drive habbits/altitude/fuel system problems like vac leaks etc.
there is a base program in the read only memory that cant be erased by loosing power to computer this program is designed to start and run a brand new vehicle good enough to let it make its minor adjustments as it sees fit.sort of like an electronic fine tune.
that code you have means the coomputer is loosing its power supplie it needs to keep the random acces memory from being erased.
check the fuse ALL fuses some fuses feed other fuses they are not labeled as such on the fuse boxes.i would go for the cig lighter fuse first but like i said check them all.if no blown fuses then your gonna have to trace keep alive memory [or b+]wire from computer on back untill you find the broken wire etc.could even be a bad computer but i dought it
.

They make a brake spring installation tool. You can use vise grips, or hook the spring on a screwdriver and get the edge of the screwdriver abve the pin, and pry up, might take a couple tries.

the slave cylinder is part of the throw out bearing,the transmision must be removed in order to gain access to it.

Ok ~ Things to check are (simplest first)
1. Examine radiator cap for damaged or leaking seals. (Have it tested at your radiator place.
2. Check for water leaks. At the radiator, rubber hoses including heater hoses. Also cabin heater radiator core.
3. Top up radiator and run engine without the cap fitted. Blip the throttle and see if any bubles or traces of gas appear when you look in the top tank. During this test, check that the top tanks turns "hot" as the thermostat opens. If not, remove and test/replace thermostat.
4. Have a "cylinder leakage test" done at your repair shop.
5. Have the cooling system pressure tested.
6. Add coooling system ceaner to the system and drive for about 30mins. Next, reverse flush radiator and engine block.

This list is in the order you need to procede, and next step should be performed only after the the preceding step tested ok.

worn bearings in overdrive housing, happens if used for towing a lot, or just high miles

The computer sends the signal for the injectors to pulsate so have the computer checked first

Hey there sluggo,

I'll assume the battery is fully charged and get right to the solenoid.

The solenoid is a really HEAVY DUTY switch. A lot of Amps need to pass through it for you starter to turn your engine.

Inside it are two copper contacts that look like the head of a bolt only rounded. The battery is attached to one, the starter to the other. Hovering above them on a spring is a copper clad disk.

When you turn your key (in a perfect world), an electromagnet is activated that yanks the disk towards the contacts. When they connect, the circuit is closed and the starter turns over. OK.

Well, as you can imagine, each time the disk makes contact, there is a bit of sparkage which can erode the copper plate on the disc. The reason it IS a disc is that it rotates a bit each time it connects. This way the contact surface lasts much longer.

After a while though, you do start to hit bad areas. Thats when it's time to replace it.

Again, that is all dependent on the battery being fully charged.

I wanted to explain what was happening rather than just saying 'replace it'

Best regards to you
Mike
This disk

Check to see if power goes to the starter solenoid with a VOLT meter. If no power goes to it replace the electrical ignition switch

have your Idle Air Control motor checked by a qualified service technician.

there are two common problem with that 4.0! throttle position sensor aka tps causes hi/lo idle and iac motor aka idle air control valve motor!

Not a tough task, remove the wheels and drums, and the brake shoes. now disconnect the brake line and the attaching bolts for the cylinder. Replace it and bleed the affected brake to rid air.

Remove wheel, brake drum, and brake shoes. The cylinder is the part the brake line goes into and it spreads the brake shoes apart when you brake.

Loosen the brake line but do not take off, unbolt the cylinder and then disconnect brake line. loosely connect the brake line to the new cylinder so you do not loose much brake fluid, bolt new cylinder in and then tighten the brake line.
Reinstall shoes. There should be a bleeding screw/grease head in the brake cylinder, loosen this and have someone step on the brake to bleed the line, have them hold the brake while you tighten the bleed screw. Do this as many times as necessary until brake fluid only with no air comes out.
Reinstall drum and tire, top off brake fluid.