20 Most Recent 2000 Ford Windstar - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Remove the stereo with the special tools for ford radios. Remove the cup holder/ash tray. There is two screws in each of the two openings. Remove all four screws and bezel will snap out.

that is a big job.......the radio,hvac controls, all trim,instrument cluster and all the electrical connectors to the main wire harness all has to be removed and the steering assembly dropped down.

should be a bolt or a screw in the end under a plastic cover ,its a 5 min job

It is in the passenger-side rear, where the jack is kept. Take off the cover to expose the scissor jack. This button is below the jack. (BTW, unless you've been in a crash, this is probably not your problem. I've been there, tried this, I know. )

I ASSUME THAT YOU MEAN THE INTAKE PLENIUM GASKET IF THE TUNE UP CONDITION IS NEW OR ONLY A COUPLE OF MONTHS OLD RULE IT OUT BUT I THINK YOUR PLUGS ARE OLD AND OUT OF GAP AND ONCE YOUR SPEED INCREASE'S TO THAT LEVEL RPM'S THE SPARK IS TRYING TO ARC OR JUMP TO FAR TO MAKE CONTACT CHECK THEM AND GET BACK TO ME AND CHECK THE BOOTS THEY MAAY BE CRACKED AND LEAKING + VOLTAGE TO - GROUND IN THE HEAD, ALSO YOUR THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR CAN BE WORN OUT IF YOU STEP DOWN ON THE PEDDLE AND THE RPM'S INCREASE AFTER YOU GET TO THAT SPOT THE SENSORS BAD BUT I STILL THINK YOUR PLUGS ARE WORN GOOD LUCK STEPHEN

replacing the speedometer cable will not fix your problem , your problem is the dash gauge it self on the windstar there is a magnet inside a small metal dish that controls the speedometer when the magnet fails it begins to catch the metal dish randomly , ... witch makes the speedometer go crazy

There is a cruise control box, which may be defective. Check for all blown fuses first, replace all blown fuses...

This is a detailed process and to be honest this block is not large enough to give detailed directions for each step. I highly recommend you go to Auto Zone, Advance Auto, or any other major Auto parts store and pick up the Haynes or Chilton's repair manual on your vehicle so you have the steps readily available. A lot of repairs can be done with the engine still installed, the repair manuals will identify which ones.

This has to do with your bank one O2 sensor. You may just need to clean it off, possible you may have to replace it.

the 20 amp fuses are RED. Sometimes they even have a 20 printed on top.

Mine did the same thing And it was the fuel pump relay

Check your PCV valve (Positive Crankcase Ventilator). Normally located on a valve cover with a hose to the intake manifold. Remove it and shake it and if it does not have a rattling noise and is clogged, the valve is defective and not allowing pressure that builds up in the engine to be released through the intake manifold thereby forcing engine oil through any loose "exit" such as the dip stick tube or loose valve cover bolts, etc. This valve allows the engine to "breath" so to speak. No rattle...replace...not expensive as compared to what damage it can cause. Good luck...Ken

p0171 system to lean - bank 1
p0174 system to lean - bank 2
Check for vacum leaks.

Do you mean its detached from the cable? If so, see if you can reach the attachment point for the cable and pull in direction of the cable to release. If this is helpful a thumbs up or clicking helpful would be greatly appreciated. Good LUCK.

It sounds like you either have an anti lock brake sensor issue or, if you have the traction control option, try pressing the button in the dashboard that turns it off. It is the one labeled "T/C". In some Fords, there is a lamp in the gauge / speedometer area that will light when it is deactivated. If this is the problem, The way the traction control works is the anti lock brake sensors sense the speed that the wheels are turning. If one front wheel begins to turn faster than the other, (not including when turning around), the computer will sense this difference in speed and apply the brake to the faster wheel which, in turn, forces more power / speed to the opposite wheel through the differential gear action that drives both wheels. This is done in hopes that the other wheel is on drier or more solid ground. If both wheels slip alternately back and forth and it won't pull the vehicle out of snow, ice or sand, DO NOT keep trying as you will damage the drive train. This is for momentary use only. If one wheel begins to slip and the other one starts to pull you out, keep going but DO NOT over-rev the engine. if it starts moving, keep it at a steady speed. faster is NOT better. Anyway when the traction control kicks in, It sounds like a machine gun under the hood because the brake isn't applied at a steady rate but is "pumped" by the anti lock motor in action similar but opposite to the anti lock brakes so it doesn't burn up the brakes or differential gear set. In the case of the anti lock brakes, if you step on the brake and a wheel locks on ice or oil the anti lock system REDUCES the braking action to the stopped wheel so that it will keep turning reducing the possibility of loosing control of the car. If it is an anti lock brake problem, open the hood. On the driver's side is a long black plastic box containing plastic fuses and relays. There should be a diagram inside the top that tells you what fuse / relay goes to what. Find the fuse labeled "anti lock". If it isn't there, check the fuse block under the dashboard on the driver's side. Pull this fuse and go for a ride. It is OK to drive this way as the brakes revert back to the way they used to be before they had anti lock. Just be careful on ice, wet roads or oil slicks as the brakes WILL lock the way they used to. In either case, it may be a broken, worn out, loose or missing anti lock sensor. If you are in the mood to crawl around on the ground, look behind each wheel, (even in the rear as these can throw the system off too), there should be a thin wire leading, probably near the top in the back of each brake setup. Run your fingers in toward the brake end and try to move the sensor. If they are all in place and not loose, one is probably defective. As I said before either pull the fuse or press the "T/C" button. which ever works for you is safe to drive until you can get it fixed. Here's an insurance tip / disclaimer. Tip for you, disclaimer for me: If you have these systems disabled and you get into an accident that might have been prevented by this system and the insurance adjuster catches it, your insurance CAN REFUSE to pay your claim. They know what extras you have in your vehicle by your VIN or Vehicle Identification Number. They put into their computer and Ford comes back with things like AM-FM radio, weather or not it's cassette or CD, HIgh end or standard, Automatic or standard trans, Anti theft system, one, two or all around air bags, Anti lock brakes, Traction Control ect... This is how they set your rates, how they know how safe the vehicle in an accident and how safe the occupants are. If they catch a missing fuse. Bang, you bought it. My father wiped out what looked like a priemo 1968 Corvette. The ins. adjuster was ready to cut the owner a check for $32,000. He noticed that the engine had a shiney new EGR valve sticking out from under the shiney chrome air cleaner. Can anyone tell me what was wrong with this picture? GM didn't start installing EGR valves until the early 1970's. That $23.00 new EGR valve cost the Vette owner $16,000!!! If he had installed a 1968 intake manifold, he might have gotten away with it. He was representing it on the claim as completely restored. Completely restored doesn't include installing a 1973 engine in a 1968 car!!! Moral? They will look and they are trained to see every little thing so keep your car original at least where safety is concerned. I'm going to bed now so good luck. Jeff M.

The oil pan is on the bottom of the engine. It will have a drain plug to drain the oil at the lowest point on the oil pan.

My 99 windstar did this too. It was the blend door that the actuator motor goes into was broke. When you pull the actuator out look into the hole and see if you see a d shape piece coming out of the box if it is not d shape it is broke check out this site great photos

The torque converter is easy to replace, but i have no idea what pump you are talking about. there is a fuel pump and a pump inside the transmission. Which one are you talking about ?

run the fault codes and look for a torque converter solenoid/servo fault. Check for a TCM problem.