2002 Oldsmobile Alero - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check for low trans fluid. I would consider changing the trans fluid, using a synthetic trans fluid, if you have more than 70,000 miles on the fluid.

Honestly it sounds like your thermostat is either bad or was put in backwards,

If you haven't figured it out or it has set through normal driving here is a link to what GM Computers look for GM OBD Driving Cycle Hope that helps if you still need it.

According to the owners manual TRAF (Traffic): Press this button to receive traffic announcements. The traffic announcement brackets will appear on the display. TRAF will appear on the display if the current station broadcasts traffic announcements. If the current station does not broadcast traffic announcements, the radio will seek to a station that does. When the radio finds a station that broadcasts traffic announcements, it will stop. If no station is found, NO TRAFFIC will appear on the display. When a traffic announcement comes on the current radio station or a related network station, you will hear it, even if the volume is muted or a compact disc is playing. If the compact disc player was being used, the compact disc will stay in the player and resume play at the point where it stopped. INFO (Information): If the current station has a message, INFO will appear on the display. Press this button to see the message. If the whole message does not appear on the display, parts of the message will appear every three seconds until the message is completed. To see the parts of the message faster than every three seconds, press this button again. A new group of words will appear on the display. Once the complete message has been displayed, INFO will disappear from the display until another new message is received. Hope this helps.

In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light normally illuminates when that signal gets broken, but not always. The security system controls the light, if the system is broken so can be the light. When the signal breaks, the car misinterprets this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the vehicle shuts down. This link explains it pretty well. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

Sounds like a clogged fuel pump!

hi have you ever changed the fuel pump? or gas filter? sounds like is loosing fuel pressure under load, I would recommend to start with the filter and then move on but have the pressure tested the preasure is 53-59 psi, thats with key on but engine not running.

sounds like cat convertor is plugged they colapse on inside bring to exhaust specialist sounds like you need a new one or a resinator

broken evap line/port on fuel pump. Or leaking fuel pump o-ring check the EVAP canister it is right next to fuel filter could be pcm needs update to fix false codes. Here is a old hillbilly trick that may help put saliva on the seal of gas cap when you fill up every time that may work for you.

Remove the coolant (usualy at the expansion tank) cap and see if there is a floating switch and if so meter it to see if it is working as it should or else just replace it.

Gear in your transmission is wearing of at end. Grinding would be a synchronizer.

In most cases you need to drive 50-100 miles in various conditions including city and highway. The engine must be at normal operating temp before the cycle will count.

The security light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterprets this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

I would get your brake pads and disc's checked they my be warped or damaged.As for the turning off problem i would go get and electrical test might be the ignition coil.

Nope...follow the path of the screws. Remove that screw you see and you should be able to remove the assembly and see the bulb.

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Flashing check engine means shut off the car immediately, engine or catalytic convertor damage if you keep the car runnning . Never disconnect the battery from a running car it can fry the alternator. Sounds like a spark plug or ignition coil or ignition wire problem.

Take the line to a brake shop and have a new one made to the shape .Steel lines have an double flare and it this is not performed properly the line will again break at the fitting. This is a legal requirement from the transport authority.

There is no generator, only the alternator. You may be confusing a generator with a voltage regulator? In modern cars, the regulator is inside the alternator. It's all one piece. Be sure and take the negative battery terminal off before removing the alternator.

ABS sensor and if you car is not equipped with ABS then its a speed sensor these are part of the hub bearing