Top 20 2006 Chrysler 300 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

The alternator may be charging at 14v but if the battery cannot hold charge, then a low voltage issue may be present. If a jumpt start worked to get the vehicle going, then I'm assuming your battery is close to dead.

First of all - check AT oil.

Hi Kermitos, Get ready for back aches. That fault code is a failure of the lumber support switch on the seat. Regards John

Remove air from system .

I have a 2006 Chrysler 300 touring. Ron Carter told me they have 12 on each side of rocker so 24 in total.

run a can of motor flush through it, it works depending on how bad the sludge is might have to run another can later down the road

Do you mean the cabin air filter for the heater and ac ?

oil sludge can be cleaned out at a shop, i can't guarantee you won't have engine trouble with tapping or knocking after, the only thing that causes sludge in a 6 year old car is neglect and lack of maintenance.

you will have to remove it form the car it is behind the glove box

The exhaust gas recirculation sensor is reading high. This can mean something is not closely off completely or the sensor is bad.

Give the key-hole a few days to dry out. There are electronics inside the key-hole that sense the key's position and the immobilizer chip within the key. If these short out, or any other circuits with them, the car won't start/run properly.

Fault: EGR valve position sensor A too high. Possible causes1 Wiring short to positive2 EGR sensor itself3 ECU/ECM

Instructions

1. • Lift the hood and find the battery. Disconnect both battery cables, starting with the negative cable first. You will need an open-ended wrench to loosen the nuts on the cable ends.
   • 2Jack your Chrysler up. Place it on jack stands, placing the stands under the frame. Locate the old starter on the bottom of the engine. Remove the heat shield from around the starter and remove the two wires running to the starter.
   • 3
   • Remove the three bolts holding the starter to the engine. Turn the starter toward the engine and pull the starter out. The starter must be in the right position to get it past the motor mount. Work the starter down and out, then lay it aside. The starter has a core value you will get back when you return it to where you purchased it.
   • 4Work the new starter back up past the motor mount and put the starter in place. Be sure to line up the starter shim and replace all three bolts. You will need a socket and extension and a ratchet to replace the bolts.
   • 5Replace the two wires to the starter. Double check all bolts to ensure they are tight. Replace the heat shield around the starter. Jack up the vehicle and remove the jack stands from under the frame. Let the car down.
   • 6Clean both battery cable ends. Replace them on the battery and tighten with a wrench.

Seen this "mystery drain" many times. Check spark at the battery to see how big the drain is. For this simple test, blow away any (explosive) battery charging fumes. Leave one terminal on and gently touch the other to its post in fairly dark surroundings. Then try it again with the wires taken off the alternator. Your spark is now probably much less. Usually bad diodes leaking electricity backwards through the alternator cause this drain. Replace the alternator or the diode pack inside it. Some mechanics recommend actually measuring the drain.... hahaha. OK whatever.

Fuse #9 feeds the power outlet and fuse #18 feeds the lighter outlet. They are both located in the fuse box in the trunk, next to the battery. If you open the trunk and lift the floor up you'll see them hiding under there. The numbers should be called out on the cover for the fuse box.

Hi there:Check this information about "engine noses"...ENGINE CLICKING NOISESA clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISEWorn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.VALVE LASH NOISEIf you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISEInspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUNDUsually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATINGThe cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Are there relays in that fuse box ?Sounds like a relay or two are stuck on.

Could be some "maintenance warning", try looking the description in the Owners Manual, Instruments Panel descriotion.

Hi Petrobandito, Dis ain't a stick up! have a look on the tappet cover and you will see a valve with a pipe connected to the intake manifold. the pipe is about half inch diameter. That should be the one. Regards John

let the deeler check it out don't try this your self