20 Most Recent 2003 Honda Civic - Page 7 Questions & Answers

battery dead. try a jump start, works now huh?

squealing in that area can be the clutch bearing. the bearing has be come dry. it sits on the clutch. if you press the clutch in it should stop.

both?

03 CR-V? where are you, at. what part of car, inside or out and exactly what is being worked on i cant see so....

replace the coils they are bad

life? ask honda. , yes, ask them. for sure. call em and ask. not a civic as it say in the above blue box???? The Honda Life is a name that is being used on various kei cars produced by Honda: passenger cars, microvans, and kei trucks. The first series of the nameplate was built between 1971 and 1974, with the name being revived in 1997. The Honda Life has rarely been marketed outside of Japan.

that's a good one, is engine RPM above or below, 2000 RPM in the A/T Drive selected if cant get there, weak engine if goes way highter, that is transmission slip. the RPM is key in the FSM see page on A/T for transmission stall test it takes 1min, to setup, pass or fail (test is 15sec. max , never more. )

alright 3 posts. what does "I believe mean", in the real world its good , bad. using a test spark plug, its got blue -white, spark x 4? this is a 4 banger right> dohc ? 2003 CRV had 3 engines, sold . 2.0 L I4 K20A4 2.2 L turbodiesel I4 2.4 L I4 K24A if you cant post the engine, nobody can help. id use a strobe light to see if #1 fires near 0degrees. about if way off the cam belt slipped and DOOM is knocking at that door my joke , is some times starts are a blessing, saving the bent valves. the compression you did was wrong. the K20A4 has 11:1 compression ratio. and warm to hot compression is 210PSI. do to that high CR. on cold engine (can start) 190? So 120 is a hard fail, i bet the cam belt slippped and you dont do belt servicing like the book, if all try, bending the vavles is your next event. (saved by only 1 tooth now... )

ok more info... good. ok , compression is #1 , no amount of spark or fuel makes a dead engine good. (the 120 is low x4 but i bet you didnt do it WOT like the instructions stated. most cars can do 150 easy. , all my 1.6L do 180. the reason i ask is the cam belt slips after 50miles and all 4 jugs drop from 180 to 120 or lower. so did you block the throttle open. my wild guess is compression really is good and the belt never slipped. yet. (interference engine they are) all of them so backup and read my post, did you check spark yet. ???????????????????

civic CRV? what engine? 2003 CRV? 1: check all fuses in both fuse boxes. 2: check for spark. no spark,? ECU (PGMFI) can never inject (logic) 3: no dizzy means DIS, it has COPS, 4 or 6 coil , no need to guess. the tests are easy. why attack a relay>? got spark? x4 or 6x on V6 try to diagnose and not guess. guessing can not only be expensive but you add bad parts for good. or cause more damage. here i will show you a video. watch mr. scotty do it stuff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp if the engine is good , this works !! every time. (cept when fuel pressure is low, and the dribble test FOOLS you, )

Do the radiator cleaning and pressure testing of the cooling system. Check the radiator fan direction of rotation. Check brakes for engaged. Check the hand brake operation. Check wheel alignment

can be 4 things, as is true with all puters, as that is what it is. 1: bad inputs to the alarm (wires are corroded, shrink cold and fail) 2: bad sensors. 3: bad alarm processor. 4: bad outputs, ( the horn is a shared resource , so can be the horn stuck?) to find this take real hard work. and tools for monitoring all inputs to the alarm and see what fails. THE FSM covers all that read the FSM and ask questions if any.

look for a valet switch usuallu under the dash push it or switch it on and hold it while you switch on the car ignition switch this will turn off the alarm

Check: - Battery (Specific Gravity and cells test) - Alternator. - Starter. - Battery to starter motor wire (thick white in color). - Battery to alternator wire (thick white in color). - ECM ground wires attached at engine. - TDC sensor.

HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING HONDA CIVIC 2001 - 2005 How to retrieve DTC: The heater control panel has self-diagnosis function. To run the self-diagnosis function, do the following: 1.Turn the blower fan OFF. 2.Press and hold the recirculation control switch and the rear window defogger switch down. 3.Turn the ignition switch ON (ll). 4.Release both switches. The recirculation indicator and the rear window defogger indicators come on. The recirculation indicator goes off 3 seconds later and the A/C indicator comes on, then the self-diagnosis will begin. About 10 seconds later, the self-diagnosis will finish and the A/C indicator goes off. - If any trouble is found, the recirculation indicator blinks the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) to indicate a faulty circuit or component. - If the system is ok, the recirculation indicator stays off. DTC TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX DTC (Recirculation indication blinks) Detection Item Page 7An open in the air mix control motor circuit.21 - 16 8A short in the air mix control motor circuit.21 - 16 9A problem in the air mix control linkage, door, or motor.21 - 17 10An open or short in the mode control motor circuit.21 - 18 11A problem in the mode control linkage, doors, or motor.21 -19 12A problem in the blower motor circuit.21 - 20 13A problem in the EEPROM in the heater control panel; (THE CONTROL PANEL MUST BE REPLACED).21 - 38 14An open in the evaporator temperature sensor circuit.21 - 23 15A short in the evaporator temperature sensor circuit.21 - 24 - In case of multiple problems, the recirculation indicator will indicate only the DTC with the least number of blinks. - In case of an intermittent failure, the heater control panel will store the DTC until the ignition is turned off.

- Check 4-wheel alignment. - All the four Tires be of the same brand, make, size and condition. - Check the Tires inflation. - Check car height. Front two sides be equal, and so the rear two sides be also equal.

2003 civic (ill answer for engine, not dragging brakes, or seized wheel bearings etc)GOT THE check engine lamp out, driving.? NO bad. scan it.get it scanned yet to see if there are DTCs stored?we scan regardless of any CEL status. what id do, is get my own real scan tool for like $9 (ask)and scan it.then see if it holds Closed Loop status hot. if not?, fix that first.if it holds CL at idle hot, then i check 40mph light flat cruise.holds CL. (closed loop) if not IT WILL SUCK gas.ever put a new cam belt on this engine. if not bending all the valves in the head is next. $1500 bill. or more.never skip the cam belt.i bet your engine is not working in CL, at all.i discover that, and then work that problem , idle CL failure is themost easy to work, its parked.1: i check compression over 150PSI x4 and done at WOT, wide open throttle (pass or fail)2: i check spark at all spark plugs , 03 timing is fixed.3: now i check fueling,i look at my live data from my scan tool and see that all senors read right but my front 02 sensors is rich all the time. i check fuel pressure, its at spec,(35?psi) not 60 no 10, not 20i do the injector leak down and balance test in the FSM.it fails. i fix that.it passes. i now put in a new front 02 sensor. bingo fixed.Think of CL as MPG, NO CL , NO MPGCL is is also called Stoich, and is the max ifficency point of the fuel air mix.

It is not necessary to replace the thermo-switch when replacing the radiator. The switch can be replaced separately. The fan switch is located under the sound box of the air cleaner. It is 2 pin connector. Pull the connector out by pressing the lock which attached to it and short the two pins with a thin auto wire temporarily. Switch on the ignition. The fan will become on. Drive it and see if runs hot. If the temp reads OK, replace the fan switch. If the problem persists, diagnose the other issues which are concerned with the overheating problems.