20 Most Recent 1997 Isuzu Rodeo - Page 3 Questions & Answers

You didn't say what type of car and engine you have. If you do a Google search with your engine you will find it

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on Jun 08, 2015

we have answered this many times.
ever do a search..

ill type for you.....


its all there, the 3.2L is one of the most difficult to time.
so guessing will not work. reading the FSM or alldata.com is a win (factory service manual) win. read all the words and steps.
then ask about things not clear.....

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on May 27, 2015

idlers are not timed, just crank to cam.....
alldata.com has the timing setup for this, log in and read?
interference engines , do you know how to work them>?

im not posted all 32 steps.
but just this.
you never stated the job, just the belt bad? or cams out, or cogs off? what was fiddled so far.....???????
ill assume the cam gears are untouched.

step 3 on install states
"If any binding is felt when adjusting the timing belt tension by turning the crankshaft, STOP turning the engine, because the pistons may be hitting the valves."

just 15 bucks to not bend over the head valves.

RTM , please read the manual, then ask questions.

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on May 24, 2015

that will take a real isuzu full transmission FSM book.
or from the true maker, see that tag on the tranny?
it answer that. on most cars.
will say like Aisin mfg company model x. or ????????

there are 2 choices.

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on Apr 22, 2015

the operators guide tells tells you, dont do that.
its not AWD, its part time system. like jeeps.
if not on ice or dirt stay out of 4wd. its only for that.
never on dry pavement.
and the dangers to you and transfer case.
im sure your car is not AWD or Full time 4wd.

so this page applies, (posted over 100 times but no one searches)
your car has no center differential, so..... stop expecting one.


so drive to dirt../sand, gravel or grass and shift out steer gently.
or jack up one tire, and shift out.
2 choices to recovery,
post 101..... LOL

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on Apr 22, 2015

There is an "O" ring between the Oil filter housing and the adapter that will leak as well. Remove the oil filter and check inside of the housing for a large nut. Remove the nut and separate the adapter from the housing. Check the "o" ring between them and replace with new "o" ring. That's where mine is leaking and I've read a couple of others that had the same problem. The old ring started out "round" and has, over time, become flat. The new ring should start out with a flatter cross section that will seal better. Good luck! (Easy Fix, but finding the "o" ring may be a challenge. Check for the ring at the Honda Dealer as the Passport is the same basic vehicle.) Do it during the next oil change........

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on Apr 15, 2015

I don't think a 97 is PCM controlled. What I would do is pull the alternator plug. Yours should be two wire(hot and ground). the third single wire plug is for the battery light or meter. Anyway. on the two wire plug check them for power, turn the ignition on and use a volt meter to find the power wire. The other is ground. The voltage should be close the battery voltage. Then I would check the battery grounds. From the battery negative side, there should be one to the engine and one to the body, then one from the engine to the body. These are the main grounds. If they are good, I would cut the ground wire at the alternator (about 4 inches) and run a new ground any where on the engine. This should take care of your voltage lose.

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on Apr 04, 2015

You have a sprag (over running one way clutch) that is not working properly, or a support bearing that is shot and causing one clutch to put preasure on another and trying to engage it also
it is time for a rebuild or new trans

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on Mar 29, 2015

double posted, why do that.
its answered already,
the "meter fuse"blew.

all warning lights out,
or do you mean the parking lamps out in cluster.
there are scads of waring lights, name some.
the CEL lamp tops list, if out the engine my not run.
does it run? do head lights work and all other lights.?
is the battery in car charged," top 12.6v rested. and you can drive say 10 mile with head lamps glowing full bright?
that be good to know.

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on Mar 24, 2015

You'll need to take it to a shop for a diagnosis before you waste any more money.
One possible cause is the fuel injectors or the fuel pressure regulator.

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on Mar 22, 2015

it my have a loose bracket somewhere but if your sure it's from the inside the motor when you step on the gas pedal does this knocking increase and is the motor running rough or like banging and the cars shakes if so a crankshaft bearing/s has gone this can be fixed but it is better to (a) get an engine rebuild (b) get a junk yard motor you see it depends how bad and how long it ran like that did the bearing make a little noise and the got worse or does the engine have a lot of miles on it and it just happened ,you can lower the pan and loosen the crankshaft and lower it to rap out bearings but it's real hard to do and the new bearings can fail quickly from other problems associated with this so it's better to do the full rebuild on it/ even a short block rebuild which would save you some$$$ is not worth it because you'll have a new bottom with an old valve train EX. loose cam bearings that will throw out the timing and make the same thing happen again or you will burn valves or even throw a valve through the valve cover from to much compression pressure on old valve springs that let go while driving on the highway so depending on the condition of the vehicle /how much new stuff you put in already /body condition is it rusting is it a( Skosh a bing New York lingo) hit everywhere how much $$$ you want to spend dictates what is your best move and can you do it yourself or do you have to go to a shop you have to answer those questions to determine what will be best for you but I will tell you if you can do it yourself or with friends who have knowledge and tools the junkyard motor is the way to go here if not and you don't have the $$$ junk it you'll probably pull a good $350.00 -$400.00 for it and rough it tell you can buy something else affordable GOOD LUCK! STEPHEN

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on Feb 13, 2015

wow the rare post that tells the job, waterpump off. bravo !
which engine? nobody ever posts, what engine they have,
you can log in and read it your self, on any car and engine

or ill guess engine,
so i guess
2.2L (chapter engine cooling, pump off)

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Radiator hose
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Front cover
    • Timing belt. Refer to the Timing Belt procedure.
    • Water pump
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Upper radiator hose
    • Timing belt. Refer to the Timing Belt procedure.
    • Idler pulley
    • Water pump
now the timing belt.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Disconnect PCV hose from cylinder head cover.
  3. Remove the air intake duct.
  4. Remove the left side ground cable from cylinder head cover and disconnect ground cable connector on the left side wheel arch. Remove right side ground cable from generator stay and disconnect ground cable connector on the right side wheel arch.
  5. Disconnect the 3 (black, green and blue colors) engine wire harness connectors from chassis harness of left rear side of compartment.
  6. Disconnect the cooling fan wire harness connector from cooling fan on left side top of fan shroud.
  7. Use a wrench to rotate the drive belt tensioner as shown to remove drive belt.
  8. Remove PCV hose from cylinder block.
  9. Remove intake duct stay from cylinder head.
  10. Remove two bolts for remove ignition cable cover from cylinder head cover.
  11. Disconnect ignition cable from ignition plug.
  12. Disconnect camshaft position sensor harness and crankshaft angle sensor harness from behind generator.
  13. Remove the 4 bolts, then remove the crankshaft pulley.
  14. Remove timing belt front cover.
  15. Loosen the timing belt rear cover bolts as shown in the accompanying figure, then remove the camshaft angle sensor.
  16. end cover off. (belt)
  17. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  18. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  19. Using a box-end wrench on the drive belt adjuster, turn the adjuster clockwise and remove the drive belt.
  20. From the left rear of the engine compartment, disconnect the 3 electrical connectors from the chassis harness.
  21. Remove the crankshaft pulley-to-crankshaft bolts and remove the pulley.
  22. From the front of the engine, remove the nut and the engine harness cover.
  23. Remove the timing belt cover.
  24. Rotate the crankshaft to position the timing marks at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the No. 1 cylinder's compression stroke.

  25. Remove the timing belt tensioner adjusting bolt and the tensioner from the engine.
  26. Remove the timing belt.
bingo the belts off, pump is exposed.
now the 3.2. im going to skip the v6
but there is one step that varies, per your question , that pulley
Use tool No. J-8614-01, or a suitable pulley holding tool to remove the crankshaft pulley center bolt. Remove the crankshaft pulley.

righty tighty-lefty loosey, or RHT, right hand threads.

on the 3.2/3.5L v6 the center bolts comes off.
and this

Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the pulley bolt to 123 ft. lbs. (167 Nm).

if car is M/T we use 5th gear, to remove crank bolts
if car is A/T this is a pain, thus the tool above.
how to lock any A/T crank to achieve this is tricky.

show a nice list of ways, some work others dont.
depends on exact engine in question, not stated once.
fly wheel lock.
DIY tool on front bolts.

i usually just make my own tool, with angle iron
some use a chain wrench, (making a nice ugly mess)
Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the pulley bolt to 123 ft. lbs.

so post back with engine size and trans type. so we can really help
above is wild guessing and to show tip of ice berg, timing belt issues, ever done one before on this engine? T belt??????
the v6 looks like this....on more wild guess.


1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on Feb 06, 2015

the cluster (warning lights dead, not parking lights)
is a fuse
marked "METER"
in CB7 dash fuse box.

the operators guide has FUSE chapter, read that yet?

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on Feb 05, 2015

Remove tire, remove axle nut, pop ball joint off, remove clip, pull axle

For a more detailed instructions, go to autozone.com and register for free.
Now you will have full free online repair manual

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on Nov 10, 2014

It may be a ruptured diaphram in the brake booster. It is loosing vaccum inside the booster, and it stalls the engine because vaccum comes from the engine manifold while running. Good-Day! But check the hoses to booster for a leak first! If the booster is bad. Push on the pedal with your hand. and you will hear a hissing sound from booster if bad.

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on Oct 29, 2014

Sounds like the solenoid is hanging up and you are getting caught in 2 gears. You must have replaced the tranny with one from a junk yard. Might becheaper but not the best of ideas. Hope you flushed the unit with fresh fluid after installing it.

1997 Isuzu Rodeo | Answered on Oct 27, 2014

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