Top 20 1997 Isuzu Rodeo - Page 4 Questions & Answers

trouble is theres so many possible. feel at the lower tank, could face the engine, away to the left or right, could be on the end(s) or point down with a drain tube. suggest getting a good small flashlight, and remove cover underneath radiator area for access. they change often during production. takes less time to find by feel or inspection.

I suspect that the TCM is playing up but without a proper code reading it is difficult to say. Why do you not take it to autozone as they do scanning for nothing.

simplify. you just were in the engine compartment... did something get disturbed, unplugged, look at the temp sender and the oil sender, they have been the most likely causes of concerns of this type since electric indicators replaced gauges years ago. does your system have a tripminder or indicator for changing the oil? does it get a reset during the service? if yours has that there may be a mode that its in...but not fully reset.. then theres a question about..does your body control ecu have a self test mode? or your powertrain control? these can be read for codes for free as a preliminary check at a local parts store.

store?

no upshift on an auto trans of any type can be caused by a modulator, governor, vacuum leak, bound cable or linkage, failed electric switches, shift solenoids, mlp sensor/tr sensor, pcm, gearshift out of range, DO THE system prechecks inspecting the related parts, the trans,check the fluid level, the engine, note runability of the engine and address any concerns, get the preliminary checks done, fluid level, roadtest noting its reaction to different ranges. write notes so you can keep it straight. Parts stores lend scan tools to diagnose. Run codes on the pcm and write them down. Now you are ready to start getting answers that will pertain. if you want to fix this yourself, you must (search recalls and tsb's.) these are FREE at the public library. you must know what trans is in the vehicle, what engine, the build date etc. ( otherwise you will find that a trans shop and a trans expert are the first step for you.) transmissions are intricate, but simplifying is the answer.

Some parts like this may be hard to get at car wreckers. they can put it on the parts locator for you and see what they find.

Turn off engine and find a tree to climb

Jeffs solution (above) is for a different problem. If the Starter Motor continues to turn with the Ign. Sw. off, yours won't be a Starter Motor problem. However, the most likely cause is either the wire to the Starter Solinoid or the Solinoid itself. I can't see the alternator being the cause either, as suggested above. . Try this Disconnect the thin wire from the Solinoid (this is the one that activates the Starter when you turn the key). With the battery charged, the Starter shouldn't work. Put the wire back and try again. If the same problem is there, quickly remove the wire. One of 2 things will happen:- 1: The Starter will stop. The cause is in the wire to the Ign. Sw. or the Ign. Sw. 2: The Starter will continue turning. Repair or replace the Solinoid.

Need to replace band have to take to garage for repair

Check your fuel cap, make sure the seal is still on the cap and not damage.

If you cannot do a side by side comparisson I would Google the specs and see what is different. it may just be slightly diff gearing or a minor mod..it might be a totally different box. cheers Roger

First, IF your vehicle has a true manual-engage for the 4-wheel drive, then you either have a linkage that needs adjusted, or there is a problem inside the transfer-case (ie- broken shift-lever, broken chain, or loose gear, depending on which metod of drive it has (they WERE gear-to-gear, in my 1981 Isuzu, which means no chain to break...) OR- if your vehicle has the same system of activation on the 4-wheel drive, as the Chevrolets of that era (Isuzu and Chevrolet were together and may still be), it's probably a vacuum problem. See, there is a vacuum-pot that pulls the cable to actuate (lock-in) the front-axle, using vacuum from a line on the transfer-case (vacuum that comes from the engine). IF there is a hole in any of the lines &/or if the vacuum-pot itself has a hole in it, then your 4-wheel drive linkage (on the front-axle) WON'T be pulled-in, so it won't engage, at all. This happened to me in my 2000 ZR2 during a snow-storm! It clicked, but wouldn't engage. Go online or get a reference-manual from Oreilly's, Autozone, etc. to see how your system is actually actuated. If it is manually actuated, then look for a linkage or a line that needs adjusted (HOPE it's not inside the case!) or IF it is vacuum actuated, then you can test it by starting the engine and spraying all the lines and the vacuum-pot with WD40 or other aerosol, to see if the engine revs- which will tell you where the problem (leak) is. Either way, GOOD luck!

If you just replaced the battery then my guess is that you have a bad alternator. Your fresh battery could hold the charge for a couple days without being charged but now it's dead. Try charging the battery (via jumper cables or a battery charger). If the car starts up after the charge then you probably need a new alternator. You can verify this by checking the voltage across the battery after you start the car. The voltage should be more than 13.5 volts, if it's any less than the alternator isn't charging the battery. Good luck!

Connect a "Jumper Lead" directly from the + on the battery to the Starter Motor terminal. If no response then it's a faulty Starter Motor.

need to re bleed the slave

Check the switch to see if it is corroded...

Well if your car has run out of oil when driving you should not be trying to turn over the engine till you have checked that the engine has not seized (you should always assume it has seized). Remove the head and check that the pistons are still in working order and TDC before trying to start the car...by the sounds of things your car has seized.

is su who>? one that runs, wow.its not that simple.there are at least 2 readings, not counting, injector balance tests.key on pressureand running pressure.4 engines. and 1 diesel.what engine. displacement. 2.2L 3.2Ll 3.5L or ?diesel?in general, 30psi runningon TBI engines, key equals runningMPI engiens, key near 40 then drops to 30 due to vacuumaction on fuel regulatorthose are general statements, i have now idea what engine.you can in fact look this up anytime herealldata dot com.

could be wrong bulb or bad earth check the bulb with the little niples on that there off set to the other side