If bulb or socket melted then replace socket. May be OEM part not sure. Easy fix just be sure to use seal type crimp connectors or you will be working on this a year later.
well after breaking up your sentence maybe 02 sensor I had issue like that and change spark plugs wouldn't hurt either/ I did both took care of the bucking
i answered it finally, in 1 of your 3 posts.
with FSM pages, and step by step tests.
the circuit is very very simple.
battery >>> fuse> 5sp-rev-switch>>>lamps>>> ground.
a voltmeter finds this is 5min work.
you didnt check the BACK fuse?>
all cars the method is the same,
its just a switch.
that switch closes and the lamps glow. super simple , like a flash light.
we use this dirt cheap tool , sold at walfart for $10
back in late 60s it was $1000 in todays dollars. you are blessed today.
its called a DMM.
turn dial to volts.
check volts at the lamp in reverse.
0v, bad.
12v good, bad lamps, bad ground to lamps.
6v( not 12) is shorted line. or corrosion in line.
lets pretend its 0v. in reverse.
i got to the 5speed, rev. switch .
I have 12vcd one side, (if not the fuse is blown or wire bad)
i have 0v out.
the switch is bad.
that easy,
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
see YJ
see page chapter, wiring
see page 64 and 108 PDF page # for actual circuit drawing.
its a wrangler ? right?
why not scan it the CEL glows for smog reasons.
we ignore the that silly light and scan it. for truth.
the ECU on this car , you need to use the keyon off trick to get the flash codes, (i have a obd1 scan tool that works, but costs $200)
low engine power, tranny not slipping, (m/t or a/t?) in order .
low engine compression. on any or all cylinders. a bad engine.
bad spark, (tune up time?) or timed wrong.
bad fueling (too little = bogs, too much , misfire.)
EGR stuck open (i think this year dont have one.)
CAT melted and blocking exhaust causing #1
ever seen this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=kuHEzOQGtOs
bad fueling can be, fuel pressure low. or bad inputs to ECU
or leaking or clogged injectors. (lots of test here, )
there are simple tests for each, all part of what we call , doing basics.
what to guess, or tests.
there are only 2 choices. (besides TAKE IT IN)
auto or sticK? tranny?
you need a schematic, and FSM
the circuit is complex (why alludes me) im looking now
see page 108 and 158 here PPD pages.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-service-manuals/Jeep_Wrangler_YJ/1993/Wiring_Diagrams.swf#pagemode=bookmarks&toolbar=1
so many connections...
the car with A/T has 2 backup switches.
the PRNDL (jeep is 1-2-D-R)
and a tranny mounted back up switch
both have 12v as inputs. and both can glow the reverse lamps
page 158
see Feed12, that is power.
see it feed both switches and the merge to the lamp feed.
why 2 switches, ive not a clue.
my guess, is its for redundancy.
if the PRNDL fails the real gear switch BU, works and lamps still glow.
so yours is busted 2 time.
Fuse 6 feeds The Feed12,
so use a voltmeter and check the voltages a page 158
a few tests there tells you, is the feed lost before or after the 2 switches.
step 1, pull battery neg .lug first or BOOM eat acid or far worse.
all answers stock YJ cars, and USA spec.
what engine?
the fsm covers this.
104 post now.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
some jeeps have 3 engine choices,
wiki quote and starter pulls can vary by engine.
as can A/C options and others.
2.5 L AMC 150I4
Complete engine specs[show]4.0 L AMC 242I6
Complete engine specs[4][show]4.2 L AMC 258I6 Complete engine specs
Transmission (standard):
- 80 weight gear oil but most recomend Redline MT 90 to protect the interals better. 75W90 is listed by some but the 80W is just cheaper to find with no ill effects.
AX-5 = 3.3 quarts
AX-15 = 3.25 quarts
BA-10/5 = 2.45 quarts
can i assume you pulled the side plug on tranny and the level
is right there? or gone way down, ever do a 50k service? to it?
M/T tranny (not auto) what engine? the m./t varies by HP of ENGINE.
If its really in 5th ( i bet not)
if the RPM rises fast that is called clutch slip
yes, clutch bad.
if not in 5th actual rpm will rise fast too. slip,
if the other gears wroke like 4th at wide open throttle up hill
gee the chutch is good.
so its not going in to 5th (for lots of reasons)
but 1 reason , is easy.
-AX 4/5/15 transmission
this tranny has a shift tower. (that thing on top that the shifter lever
fits in to)
most tranny that fail to actual shift into gear
is caused by a $1 plastic part failure
so pull the shifter off top of the shift tower.
and look, is the plastic buffer parts all bad, missing, cracked or
destoryed, sure they all end there... all.
i can also remove the shifter, lever.
and shift to 5ht by hand, and see that it DOES.
it either does, or does not.
if it does, the lever parts are bad.
that simple.
see part 61 (im guessing which of 5 tranny it is , )
http://cdn.liveoffroad.com/images/Aisin_AX5_Transmission.jpg
stop , do not drive this fire bomb.
get it fixed now.
get help. fast. no one here can fix gas leaks.
can be many causes.... even injectors leaking, or hoses.
all are bad. none safe.
If the throw out bearing has stopped turning then the fingers on the clutch disk are probably damaged too. You'll have to replace the entire clutch and bearing.
It isn't the ground; if you lost the ground, it wouldn't be blowing fuses-it wouldn't be doing anything.
There may be a short in the panel, or in the wiring to it. You will need to pull the instrument cluster out to investigate. If the wiring and connectors look good, probably need a new cluster.
Likely it's not the pump. but I would check the filter. Spark is controlled on some by a spark control unit, also by a coil inside the distributor that serves as a cam position sensor. I suggest you get a basic manual like chiltons or haynes and a decent volt/ohm meter and following procedures they outline, test each component.You will spend some money on them but will find them useful many times in the future and far cheaper than guessing and buying parts you don't need. have you checked the pump relay?
