1994 Jeep Wrangler - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

• You should never ever spay a lubricant on a belt. There needs to be friction or the belt will not grab and this does not fix the problem even if the squealing did go away. You just would not be able to hear the squeals anymore.

• The belt may be tight but that does not mean it is not hanging up or bad.

1. First look and inspect the belt as the engine runs. Make sure it is staying strait on the pulleys and not jumping around at all.
2. Then remove the belt and inspect it for cracks, rips and tears. The WILL need to be replaced if none of the things I list are the problem. If there are more that a few small cracks in the belt then replace it. Keep the old belt though. Even a shotty spare belt is better then none should the new one fail. So throw it in the trunk for the in case.
3. First clean all the pulleys off real well with soapy water. There is oil all over them now so get rid of it.
4. Now spin the pulleys and see if any have the slightest hangup. They should spin freely, accept the crank pulley of course. Any hangups and that unit will have to be replaced.
5. If the belt was slipping then the pulleys are now very slick so take an SOS pad or some fine grit sand paper and rough up the pulleys to give them traction to bit the belt with.
6. If the belt is not to bad (in looks) then clean with some soapy water and get all the lubricant off of it.
7. Make sure that the tentioner arm has actual tension to it. It should take some good tugging to get it to move.
8. Now put the belt on. At this point all conditions should be optimal. If you still get a squeal then the belt is bad and needs replace.
9. Keep in mind a new belt can squeal too at times from a manufacturer defect.

• You might want to check the PCV valve and hose to see if that is connected well and not clogged.
• If this is something other than the belt such as a vacuum leak then I would think this would throw a cod and a check engine light.

• If you have any comments you can feel free to leave them hear and I will respond.
• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

just call me at this number 407 729 7647

could be a bad asd relay, try swapping with ac relay

running rich is usually high fuel pressure, damaged or leaking fuel injector (bad o-rings), or some kind of ignition issue (bad plug(s), plug wire, ignition module or distributor cap/rotor...clean the throttle body, and the idle air controller too (Sea Foam is very good for cleaning the intake manifold, use a vacuum line to ingest it into the running engine, let it sit for 10 minutes, get ready for lots of smoke but it cleans carbon out of the intake like nothing else). Read your plugs-dark plugs mean the issue it there-start with that and chase it down.

Look for a Bose type relay lead from the small (control) wire from the starter.
A good installer will hide this relay in the inner side of the firewall.

I short this relay is connect between the alarm and the starter control cable.

Bypass the relay and you are done.

If your check engine light does not illuminate when you turn the ignition on then your jeep ecu is in need of repair. The check engine light has to be on for the fuel pump to get power. Try leaving the ignition key in the on position for a few minutes to see if the check engine light does eventually come on and if the fuel pump starts to work then.

1994?? older vehicle and iam not sure here but i think your autochoke temperature sensor is not working and its staying on choke ,now where it is and what it looks like i cannot help you with iam afraid as i have never worked on one

When it warms up and acts up disconnect the ECT,(coolant temp sensor) it mounted toward the rear of your alternator, see if there is any difference,also inspect the hose at the map sensor make sure its not torn on any ends or kinked,

Is the check engine light lighting up on the dashboard, when you turn the ignition key to on? If not then your ecu is in need of repair since it is not sending power to the coil and probably also not to the injectors also.

then some of the cylinders could misfire

No such thing as an easy or inexpensive fix when it comes to a transmission. Since the unit needs to come out and apart in order to do any internal repair, it's rather foolish to do anything except a complete rebuild. Don't forget...Unlike an engine that has many components on the outside, your transmission has virtually everything inside. Have a reputable trans shop do the work. They will check the transmission and the transfer case and make the necessary repair recommendations.

Are you check fuses and flasher device? Also bulbs and voltage at wires harnesses.

A common sign of "blow by." It is due to wear at your piston rings, allowing motor oil to be pushed through your PCV system. I'm assuming you have a lot of miles?

WILL EITHER BE THE SPEEDO CABLE, OR THE GUAGE!

Throttle position sensors on 4.0 Jeeps are very touchy and erratic at best, maybe yours is failing?

Your master cylinder is probably gunked up. There's a spring inside the cylinder that pushes the plunger back out. If that spring for some reason gets stuck it won't return. Sounds like time for either a rebuild or a new brake master cylinder.Try gravity bleeding the master through the front two calipers first, adding fluid as it runs out and then do the rear via the wheel cylinders -- this will get new fluid running through the master and maybe it will come back. Also check the booster and vacuum in the booster.The booster is part of master cylinder.Turn the car off, step on the pedal a few times to kill vacuum. Does the pedal return with the car off? Most likely the booster. To check, start the car again, let it run 30 seconds and turn it off. Wait a minute and remove the plastic check valve the hose connects too. If you don't hear vacuum release it's your booster. Check fig below:---
------------ This will help.Thanks.

sounds like you need a new hermonic balancer easer to replace than fix

Yes, if you can punch a hole in the leaking 'freeze plug' and get another one of the same size and tap it in, then you can fix it with the engine in the vehicle. If you can find a 'rubber stopper' that screws down and expands to fit in the freeze plug hole, that work as well. Check with your local auto parts store for these products.

find the closest auto parts store and see if they have one for that vehicle, if not you will have to buy a new caliper or rear wheel cylinder

I'm not familiar with this particular car...but most cars these days use a spring loaded idler to apply tension to the accessory drive belt. Simply rotate the idler against the spring pressure, install the belt, and release.