1994 Jeep Wrangler - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Providing you haven't taken the timing chain off the engine and replaced it incorrectly or that the chain itself has stretched way out of limits, your timing is locked and is non-adjustable. Your computer reads engine conditions and matches timing (and fuel delivery) to that via the engine sensors.

ITS ON CORE SUPPORT OR YOUTUBE IT

may be your timing chain ,liftersor rockers

Wow. That's weird. I had a problem once where taking out the rear crossmember, then lowering the transmission tail shaft cracked the distributor cap against the firewall.

Look for something at the rear of the engine that might have gotten pinched when you too the tranny off.

Check the fuses..sometimes this is the easiest fix

order is 153624 gap is .35 remove one wire at a time and you won't have a problem putting the wires back on.

Number 3 and number 1 cylinders are marked twice; Once on the wire and once on the distributor, but they are the same location and same wire.

I have not worked on your style wrangler in a minute but, from what i remember there is a main cluster of wires that lead to the back for brakes, turn, reverse etc. then it splits (i believe from the drivers side to the passenger). the harness isnt that hard to find, if you look up behind the lights/metal you will see the wires coming out the back of the tail lights. Fallow those wires to where they connect and you will be able to check the connection. Sorry i can't be so exact to where the location of that harness connection. And, i agree with "thundergod" it wouldn't hurt to check your grounds (inside the light i'm assuming he meant) but, i dought thats the problem only because (both) your lights are not working...

no they are very diff parts.

Sounds like you are likely doing the right thing but didn't go far enough. Clean up all the sub-grounds, like the one on the block about 6" to the left of the distributor, the strap between the engine and firewall and any you find on the fenders, especially near the computer.
On all mine, I run a continuous 10gauge ground wire from the battery to all those points and through the firewall to the dash frame. (on boats it's called bonding).
I don't know if it really matters but I have never run into problems created by poor grounding on any Jeep I have including ones I use off-road!
You could try that ...it won't hurt anything and may help you,.

You didn't mention which engine but if it's a 4.0, it is about six inches past the throttle body right on top of the intake common plenum. It's the only one that has wires (2) and not a vacuum hose attached to it.

have u ck out the ignition switch [not the key & tumblers],, or the neutral safety switch to see if u have power ,,also seen broken wire at solenoid on starter too,,hope it helped,,

Replace the Vehicle speed sensor that is located in the tailshaft housing of the differential case. You will have to index the sensor when installed in order for it to operate correcly.

Hello, if the doors aren't closing right you can loosen the bolt that the doors latch onto, it is a torx, then move it up or down so that it closes well. Otherwise you can bend the door pins slightly. What can happen is that the body shifts with the removal of the hard top or if someone unbolted the roll cage to put down the front wind screen. Get the doors going good by adjusting the bolt that the door jam latches onto to keep the door closed. Then tighten everything good. It is common that they don't close right. Also, while you're at it, pull up the carpet where the seatbelts are in front and look for rust on the floor. YJ's are know for the seat belt ripping out of a rusted floor and the passengers going through the windshield. But I still love jeeps. Cheers bro.

For your sake I hoping its a shift solenoid. Yes its in the valve body and there is some transmission surgery involved but its not that pricey. Otherwise it could be the shifter , manual shift valve, 3rd gear linkages etc. This is major tranny surgery. keep me posted.

What you have done there is a good example of why I warn people about replacing items without testing. You can throw tons of $ and parts at a problem but without testing, often the problem will remain.
Since you have eliminated the sensors and injectors, I'd check the compression and look carefully at the spark plugs for any sign of contamination (oil or coolant). If Compression is within 20% in each cylinder and plugs look OK, either check or replace the ignition wires, cap and rotor. TEST the ignition coil. Also, check all vacuum hoses for loose connections and any splits, and make sure the intake gasket isn't leaking. It is a good idea to look at all your wiring as well. it is possible for a wire to chafe and cause an intermittent partial short. Attach a vacuum gauge to any free port on the manifold, or, use a "t" into one in use. watch for steady vacuum reading. "bouncing indicates a mis-fire or bad valve.
In replacing everything, your computer may need to go through several "drive cycles" in order to re-learn the new operating parameters.
One note: In the future, make changes one at a time. When something you replace makes a difference, pay attention to that as often it is a clue as to where the problem is. By replacing everything, you don't know which items you replaced actually made a difference.
In the end, you may need to have it put on a real diagnostics machine (not just a code reader) That will tell you more precisely where the fault lies.
In reality, since I can't be there to do the necessary testing, the absolute best I or anyone else can do for you is to just tell you what tests need doing.....Hope it helps.
good luck!

need to shim the rearend mounts to adjust the pinion angle to compensate for the body lift.

use ya reg oil just ad lucus to it

The other possibility is a simple to fix but hard to find bad connector. There should be a yellow wire running from the coil to the ACC junction to the ignition switch, check for power there and clean any connections.

your flywheel is probally missing teeth. Take a socket and put on the crankshaft pulley and turn it about half a turn. Then try to start it,it should start. If it does or tries you will need another flywheel.