1994 Jeep Wrangler - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Most likely a code in the system,might be the o2 sensor telling you it is lean,or rich fuel mixture.

Before you start tearing into this repair, let me ask a couple of questions.
Do you want to replace the ignition tumbler assembly because you lost your ignition key, or because it is broken or worn out ?
If you lost your key I believe Chrysler can help make you a new one, you will have to get your VIN number and call your Chrysler dealer.
Please let me know

The stabilizer dampner is a straight forward remove and replace. The body of the dampner (shock) faces the passenger side and the chrome shaft end faces the driver side. All you have to do is remove the hex nuts that secure it the the steering. It's not a big job. I don't have an image or illustration at this time.

Hi, High head and a low suction pressure can indicate a couple of different things. One, condenser coil very dirty and needs to be washed very well. This will bring your head pressure down but let it run back up to normal engine temperatures. If the head is ok after you clean it, and suction is even lower, you may still be low on charge. If the system is over charged will cause this problem. You may want to clean coil, evacuate unit, and weight in your charge. Charge is critical on a auto a/c. You may also have a restriction in the filter drier or site glass. Go through the basics first. Suction should run about 18 p.s.i. Head will run about 27*F over ambient.If you are running R-12 or 134-A, the pressures will be close on your gauges. Go by your scale on the inner part of your gauge which is temperature. So, for R-12 with an outdoor temp of 90 degrees, your head will be about 150 p. s. i. Remember, the charge is critical. Good luck,
Shastalaker7

It should have a safety interlock switch on the clutch to prevent it from cranking with the clutch not depressed. Do a search on the Internet for 94 jeep clutch pedal safety switch. If its an automatic it should have a switch on the transmission linkage to prevent starts out of park.

Do you hear a click or any noise at all when you turn the key to try to start it? It sounds like the starter could have gone bad. It should be just 2 big bolts but the starter is pretty solid so it could be heavy. It's a Jeep so you should have good clearance checking it out. The only way to be sure is to pull the starter and bench test it. Or you could just take it to a local auto parts store like Autozone or Advanced Discount Auto Parts, they'll test it for you.
Disconnect the Positive terminal from the battery.
Remove the 2 starter mounting bolts.
***You may need to disconnect the wires at the starter before removing the starter; however, on some starters this is not possible until AFTER you have unbolted the starter, and are able to move it around to access the electrical connections.
When you have removed the starter, jump it off after you have secured it in a bench vise or other means (there is a LOT of torque when these work), and you'll see if it performs as it should.
2 things happen when your starter is cranked:
1-the "bendix" will shoot out the spinning gear so it can engage your flywheel teeth,
and 2- the spinning gear will begin spinning very rapidly to turn your flywheel so the engine begins turning.

If either one of these actions do not occur, your starter will not crank your engine, although you would probably hear a noise of some kind. Other times you will smell electrical windings heating up, or a combination of any of these.Then again, sometimes starters just go bad and will not make any noise.

Hope this helps.

Sounds like something in the engine "froze" or stuck Unhook the battery and try turning the engine with a wrench/rachet both ways. Check the timing belt, if broken the pistons will come up and hit the valves then stop everything from turning. Is one of the pullies stuck? Take off the serpentine belt and check all pullies to see if they turn.

Try plug wires.

every 50,000 miles it trips the maintenance required light on,all that happens is you would bring it to the dealer and we would pull it in a bay,and under the dash close to the floorboard behind the brake pedal,is three wires hanging close together,what you did was unhook the two wires that are connected and plug the extra wire in for another 50,000 miles

the grees in the lock is getting stiff give it a splosh of WD40 do it to all of them and they will fix them self's

If the car still moves when you have it in 4 w mode then it is the front axle and not T-case. Check vac. lines to unit on front axle.

I think the 94 wrangler still has the splice front axle with the vacuum control. It is located on the front axle on th pass. side . It is a large unit and is easy to see. Check vacuum lines.

A possible problem about the blower motor is the blower motor resister has failed. Usually it will work in the high speed only, kind of a fail safe mode. The other issue you have, could be a blend door motor, switch, or an obstruction in the vent( pencil/pen) fell into it. I would have it checked by a repair shop, to verify the malfunction, before you start putting parts into it. This could cost hundreds of dollars, and should be diag properly first.

Idle speed is not related to the clutch position. With the pedal depressed, the engine is freewheeling and is not engaged with the remainder of the driveline. Likely the idle speed is the same with the engine running in neutral or with the clutch depressed. check the idle air control and clean the throttle plate in the throttle body as well as checking the throttle cable for binding etc. If there is a small vacuum leak, that also can raise idle speed.

did you bench bleed the reserve cylinder be for you stuck in on,maybe you take this to a shop and tell them what happen and get it fixed right before you do have to replace the clutch and pressure plate assembly

Hi there
I read your report. The fuse is 20amp. Ty for writing to fix ya.

Best Regards Richard

Don't worry about it,all seals seep,that is nothing but normal wear.unless you see where fluid has leaked out and hit the ground.
It sounds like a commission garage that he went to,and trust me they would just pressure wash those seepage's

ABOUT $300

This Indicates that the 1 RELAY is BAD or The SWITCH is Bad

You will need to replace the dimmer switch or repair the plug that goes to it.