1994 Jeep Wrangler - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Under the hood by the battery its a box with relays and fuses in it. The diagram is in the box on the cover. Best of luck.

check the brake switch. It sits above your brake pedal. Just follow the brake pedal arm up and you can't miss it.

Replace the thermostat.

Both the 4 and 6 cyl, are the same location, under the Jeep, driver side, mounted on the frame (under seating area).

Checked the "u" joints on the driveshaft?

Mate.If its the same as a few other models,it comes out through the engine bay side.4 bolts and the wires and its pretty good access(i think)I hope this helps you

Since both engines have the identical timing setup it likely will not matter which year the engine was made.
If engine came with the vehicle it may have been produced late in 94 and will carry a 95 date (production date is on sticker on door) Your distributor is "locked" and timing cannot be set except that it needs to be placed in the proper position when being installed. (pointing to the #1 wire tower on the cap with the timing mark on crank pulley at tdc. Running timing changes are made by the computer using info from the crank sensor, throttle position sensor, map sensor and cam sensor (inside the distributor housing)

check to see if you crank sensor is plugged in. it's at the top of the transmission bell housing.

I do believe they are the same and should fit....

I have the same problem.... now it's getting worse and idling higher....If you find out the answer please email me at [email protected]... thanks

did the timing chain break? do you have 12 volts to the coil?is the coil bad? r u sure your not getting spark?

Mate.If you have done what you said,I think it might be just a small engine timing problem.The plugs that are recommended are champion RC12LYC,gap 0.035 in, just make sure yours are compatible.and the gaps are correct.The only other thing it might be is a really dirty fuel filter or injector.Check the other things first.Hope this helps

sounds like wipers arm is not securely attached to shaft that is attached to wiper motors. They can strip out and you can either us JB weld to put them on or get new ones or junk yard ones.

try changing spark plugs,servicing the fuel system, air filter,ignition system,oil and filter.try doing a compression test to see how the engine is doing

The Multimeter has several functions.It test voltages [a/c, d.c. (+ plus, - minus)], then the RESISTANCE test to test 'ballast resistors". If the tester has a on-off switch, make sure that the scitch is OFF. If you can disconnect one side of the resistor, do so !! Place (+plus) side of probe on DISCONNECTED side, turn meter ON, place other side of probe (- minus)on other side of resistor.You should mesure the resistance you see written on the ballast. IF YOU CAN'T DISCONNECT ONE SIDE, just follow the same rules WITHOUT DISCONNECTING one side.
NOTE:: Rustyrooster, what Salkim08 said is true, but he simplifed it. Connected to the ballast on either side or both sides is a circukt (ckt.) that could effect the measurement.

That light usually has two functions: (1) Parking brake is set and (2) hydraulic brakes system failure. I would assume that you have had a failure in the regular brake system, and trouble shoot that. Check fluid level, then make sure all 4 wheels are applying the brakes. Most systems have a split, so you could get a failure of say the front brakes and still have rear, or vice versa, so you might not realize at first that you have a failure, just a longer stopping distance.

Other option is a failure (short) of the switch or wiring harness that is activated by the setting of the parking brake.

Pretty sure it does...if you have one it should be on the fender or firewall near the master cylinder. It's about three inches long made of ceramic. with a wire connector on both ends.

Yes...check the pump, filter and output. Also check the ballast resistor for the pump. Stop pouring fuel into the cylinder...instead, use carb cleaner and spray into throttle body (excess fuel in one cyl will contaminate your engine oil). If it runs normally after you get it started likely the pump is good (unless you have problems at high rpm's under power) Regulator is likely good as well...default is to more fuel not less.

best bet is go to a junk yard and find one from those years, any jeep with the same motor should have the same plug design/ pigtail for the sending units, or keep checking ebay

yes you will...
but it worth it