20 Most Recent 1998 Jeep Wrangler - Page 8 Questions & Answers

The voltage regulator it in the ECM.What you need to do is go to the basic which can be overlooked like is the Alternator fuse burnt open that will require a new fuse, how is the battery terminal connection? You need to check that,Or how is the calbe from the alternator to the Battery is the connection in good shape? Those you need to check you mainly need a voltmeter to do this but a good visual inspection can get results,

Engine, with filter..........6.1 quarts [1]
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........10.6 quarts
AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant
Automatic Transmission, 30RH Initial Fill..........4.1 quarts
Automatic Transmission, 32RH Initial Fill..........4.1 quarts
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
3 speed 30RH..........7 quarts
3 speed 32RH..........8.6 quarts
Manual Transmission, AX-5 2WD..........7.4 pints
Manual Transmission, AX-15 2WD..........6.8 pints
Manual Transmission, AX-15 4WD..........6.8 pints
Differential, 181 FBI Front..........2.6 pints [2]
Differential, With 194 RBI Rear..........3.6 pints
Differential, With 216 RBI Rear..........4.1 pints
Transfer Case, 242..........3 pints
Transfer Case, 247..........3.4 pints
Transfer Case, 249..........3.4 pints
Transfer Case, 231..........2.2 pints

It could be OIL (black) , Coolant (green or orange), transmission fluid (red) or power steering - brake fluid (yellow)

have the oil pressure measured at a shop, the built in gauge may be failing or you may have a bad sending unit.

you have something that has dropped into the plennum remove the heater fan and clean it out.

It sounds like an onboard computer malfunction that would have to be analyzed at a competent mechanic outlet, to determine if the computer module needs repacing, or could be fixed.

HelloThe engine and automatic transmission in this vehicles drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM (Power Train Control Module). Whenever a problem like this occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM

get a meter and use to test with fully charged battery. the big wire should have battery voltage if not ck fuse if fuse good ck fuse box, if voltage present ck connector with running one should have battery voltage the other less than battery voltage. if no battery voltage alternator no good. if no voltage on less then battery its signal comes from ecm/pcm trace back wire to ecm/pcm if any bad spots repair.if ok replace ecm/pcm. if battery voltage present on other wire it goes to the alternator cut out relay trace wire and repair if bad,if good ch relay im not sure how it is wired but will try to find out tomorrow and get back to you.

The crank sensor, it's bolted to the transmisson.

i would start by looking for a bad connection at the battery and fuse boxes

i recently recharged my a/c and what i found at walmart was a can of the refrigerant with stop leak and leak finder.... it had a neon yellow dye in it that would glow with a black-light for easy finding. it was still visible in normal lighting though. also are you charging to the proper pressure?