2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

take your vehicle to your local radiator shop and have them pressure test it very cheap test and it'll tell you whether you got a leak or a head gasket or anything else bad I'll make it easier for you instead of telling you all kinds of things to do that you may not even know how to do

Do you mean the brake pedal goes down to the floor quite easily and you literally have no brakes? Do you mean the brakes are there but there is no power assistance? If, as you say the hydraulic lines haven't been disturbed and no fluid lost, I doubt the problem is hydraulic and if the pedal feel was merely spongy that is probably what you would have said rather than you have no brakes. Are you sure your new brake servo unit was identical in every respect to the one you removed including the internal push-rod and any seals and gaskets?If there was something that needed transferring from the original to the new unit before fitting did you remember to transfer it? If you are confident you got everything right there should be no reason to remove the unit and start again. Even if the unit is faulty and providing no assistance the brake pedal should feel normal as with the engine switched off. If this is the case you need to check that the front chamber is being evacuated of air and there are no leaks. If the usual checks prove negative then you could have a faulty unit. If you need more advice please provide a more thorough description when you return.

Looks like a problem with the idle air control stepper motor. Many times its just dirty and needs to be cleaned.

Can be a bad O2 sensor. Check with a scanner which shows live data the 1-1 and 2-1 (upstream) sensors. Good sensors show a rapidly fluctuating voltage from 0.2 to 0.8 V. When the sensor has a steady voltage, then its most probably bad. There is no check engine light and no fault codes set?

Check all fuses. Not sure where they would be on a jeep but also check chassis grounds and any others. These can screw up random things. Last but not least just run the wires and see if they are crossed with another wire or broke at any point. This might take some time one of these should fix it. Hope this helps

is this a question?

find a live mech, to find noise, nobody here will ever guess cause. we cant hear . nor use stereoscopic hearing to tell directions.

the air conditioner what part, it's a huge system.? ac ( advanced commode)

DOES IT CRANK in NEUTRAL? using fresh PRNDL contacts? no crank, is easy to diagnose. with just one tool a voltmeter. 12.6vdc is a charged battery , rested, if lower, and not cold its discharged. so charge it or jumper cable crank engine off running donor car. easy huh? if it cant crank it cant start, (mine can push start or gravity start) battery cable lugs clean and tight x4 ends? green corrosion? we then hot wire. the starter solenoid, next. (using old screwdriver as jumper bar) it cranks now (good starter ) all in 5min work ! it does not crank bad starter. so it cranks hot wired. good. so next what is next, easy the KEY line. the key line runs form the starter to the PRNDL switch and then the KEY switch (crank Start line) if the car has SKIM immobilizer it cuts fuel not spark. so i check for 12vdc into PRNDL cranking then key is ok. if got 12vdc in to PRNLD but not out cranking the switch is bad. or maladjusted? its that simple ,with any 10buck DMM off walfarts shelf. if car is hacked or alarms spliced in, we cant fix it here, its not stock. same with remote start hack jobs.

Faulty low pressure switch , Google it to see how to replace, or you an unlucky it and run a jumper wire between the terminals/ But beware- bypassing the low pressure switch can ruin the compressor if it gets low on freon.

Go to a Jeep blog site and check to see if anyone else is having this problem

If you have power to the wiper motor and the motor will not come on then your wiper motor is bad. When the wiper switch is off their should be no power to the motor. When the wiper switch is on, power is sent to the wiper motor and the wiper then turns on. The relay is use probably to control the wiper speeds you select. I hope this helps.

which engine? of the 3. all sparks failing or just one, takes them all to run ! generic answer, starts. check fuses first. aways. spark, lost spark on all modern cars you next scan the PCM using any scan tool (modern) youj crank the engine over for 5 seconds, and you will see DTC errors. , and the error is a BIG clue. like DTC for dead Crank sensor, or? cam?

Seems from just a little research that this is a major problem with several years of jeeps having the same issues. Most responses i seen point to an electrical problem with the PCI Bus.
A quick fix in which I have seen several positive responses, is to disconnect the negative cable from battery and leave disconnected for approx. 10 minutes then reconnect.
Hopefully this will give you at least some short term relief.

Sources: http://forums.cnet.com/7723-7811_102-272172.html http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/interior-lights-staying-25200/

You need to get the transmission evaluated by a professional shop immediately. The symptoms you describe are a slipping transmission and a severe one at that. Slipping transmissions can be caused by low pressure inside the transmission which in turn can be caused by improperly installed filters (especially if this is a v8 Grand Cherokee). You could go to a quick oil change center and ask to have the transmission flushed _AND_ the filter changed. It might cure the problem... But that typically costs $120+ and a transmission shop will typically diagnose for less (half that). Good luck.

Could be a blown fuse or a problem with the blower motor or resistor/controller, but on the AZC (automatic zone control) system, many times the problem is a melted connector on the blower motor controller. Look up in the passengers footwell area, there you will find the blower motor (fastened with three screws) and next to it the blower motor controller..

I would check the IAC stepper motor plunjer (idle air control). Dirt can build up on the plunjer and the air canal and will disturbe the idle control. The IAC sits on the throttle body.

There is not such a sensor on the transmission. That the engine shuts off could be due to a faulty crank or cam sensor.

what is a leef, ( a loose reef?) or loose reeefer?

the ACM in the control module has lost this program needs to go back to the dealership to be reprogrammed you said about a hundred To125 dollars If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/james_9c1b039055413ffa