2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You should be more specific. There is an intake temperature sensor and an intake manifold pressure sensor (MAP)

Many times its caused by a bad crank position sensor. Sometimes they throw a fault code, but sometimes they don´t. So first check if there is any fault code set in the PCM with a scanner or using the key dance: ignition switch three times off/run and leave in run at the third time. odometer will show DONE when all ok, or a fault code(s).

Likely O2 sensors or other emissions control sensors.

When you do get it fixed, use it or lose it. Not using your pkg brk will seize the linkage up.

Is it out of gas? Try spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and see if it starts then. If so, you have a fuel delivery problem. If not, you have an electrical problem (no spark).

the engine must run, and run at 800 rpm with full vacuum for the brake booster work, in drivers ed, in 1965 they taught us to stop car with engine stalled and steering weak, for sure some panic. and folks die (back then 10k tuneups are ignored and stalls are every day thing, even my 64 GTO stalled if the silly chock stuck , yes, carbs do suck LOL) but now no one knows this (i taught my wife, grin !)l no engine stated,! engine stalls are caused by 50 or more bad parts, (1 of 50 or2) its no use guessing. we never guess, we have TOOLS. with tools and the list of BASICS,we find the cause. what is the method, (read ASE BOOKS?) generic, no engine stated. USA cars, USA fueling and spark. test #1 can you prevent the stall with a fast right foot No,? yes,? yes, but its easy or hard to do> ? KEY answers. wow important; Physics or Basics 101 (ASE) each is a simple test and tool. ask.

1. lost 12vdc power to spark or EFI systems(volt meter?)
2. lost compression 1 or more cylinders, (gauge tools)
3. lost spark or timing way off on 1 or more cylinders.
4. #3b, never ever done a real tuneup this decade?
5. bad fueling,
6. lost idle air, ISC stuck closed or dead.
7. failure to use the full scan tool and see all DTC errors at stall.!!!!!!!

i will not do fueling, it take me 2hr to do with one tool and is covered i all injector books, how to test fueling systems (pressure , leak down and balance, key tests , over 12 tests) now the fast right foot trick if it passes easy, see #6 eg.lost idle air. can i presume 1/2 attains,180F coolant temp?> scan tool data? if not, BINGO>? I look at all live data, and find cause of bad readings first. like not attaining closed loop, or LTFT way off. all sensors read right. with the tool. or do you want just a guess ok do the tuneup.

if by sloppy brakes you mean that the pedal goes down further than it should there can be several reasons for this . firstly a faulty master cylinder that has muck in the rubbers ( failing rubbers) and should be replaced with a new unit, air still in the system of water in the brake fluid. this happens because brake fluid is hygroscopic ( absorbs moisture from the air) when there is a heavy demand for braking, the heat generated at the pads and shoes transfers to the contaminated brake fluid and the water content boils off and produces steam or air which affects the brake efficiency. brake system fluid should be changed every 12 months and replaced only from a fresh, sealed container. take the vehicle to an accredited brake shop and have a proper diagnosis done as it may save money and life.

I have the answer and its a common problem you have a bad ground. You now have to find out where so you will need a test light and the best one is a power probe. that one will let you see a ground and a power. it can also be the socket having a broken wire. So I don't know how you are going to do it but you have to test your grounds on that side and you will find a bad wire or a bad socket. Good luck with this one you will feel great when you find the problem I always do ....

account where, ??? how can anyone guess, what you want ?

Thermostat was the right start. The heat works by using heated coolant and pumping it through a heater core. If you take the jeep to a local garage to have the heater core flushed this should fix the problem.

CHECK FOR LEAKING WATER PUMP WEEP HOLE OR GASKET.ALSO CHECK WATER PUMP HOSE FOR LEAKS.IF ALL LOOKS GOOD.YOU COULD HAVE PINHOLE LEAKS IN RADIATOR CORE LEAKING ON FRONT OF ENGINE OR INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET LEAKING COOLANT.

get a compression test. (same with all engines, with bad head gasket, you may see 2 cylinders real low. and classic reason. the leak down on rad works too. as does the blue/green dye test on same. there are 3 tests, sure.

If you can remove the switch. Then hook the 2 wires together, coming in to switch and out. If it works properly, then it is a bad switch causing this. Good-Day!

You have to remove the headliner. Remove all the door column bezels and rear bezels, both sides. Remove the sun visors. Remove any dome lights and look for screws. Most headliners have plastic buttons and Velcro that hold them in place. Start in one place and work your way around to release the headliner. Being extremely careful. Because if you pull down to hard, you will crack the headliner, leaving a nice crease. Once the headliner is out, You can get to the sun roof regulator and motor.

AXLE 101: wow, front or rear>? why must i ask this.? ill toss coin, and go rear............ but my post , links the full chapter on how to do it called and FSM Factory service manual, covers this on all cars made. so , you are removing only , the real live axle part.??? and this all happened in 1 week or 1 year and forgot? take down? doing it with no books (they have differ axle OPTIONS) 2001. ill now show the page to read first. WJ JEEP page differential. chapter 3 the 2 axles, page 49 and page 87 axle shafts come on 2 kinds, just splines, and same with inboard lock device.(clip) i looked for you the first axle has no locks. step 6 page. 67 now the other axle, ill look now. page 105 same step, no locks. so at what step in the below manual do you get troubles. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service so ? do tell the full story this time. and can help.

front or rear axels and did you have the left and right side out at the same time.

The first thing I have to ask you is When was the last time the transmission was serviced? Transmission fluid and filter change? A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you. Have a GREAT DAY and GOD BLESS YOU.

Isuggest that instead of using usual horn system you can try (AH ).NOWADAYS THESE Automotive horns are installed in almost all automobiles, trucks and other automotive vehicles. Automotive horns are intended for use as a warning device to provide warning to other drivers, bicyclists, pedestrians, bystanders, or animals of potential dangerous conditions in the vicinity of the automobile. For example, the horn may be used to warn pedestrians or persons in the path or vicinity of a moving vehicle of the presence or location of the vehicle.
In recent years, it has become increasingly apparent that automotive horns are commonly abused by drivers to show or vent frustration, or to express anger at actions by other drivers or bystanders that are perceived as discourteous. The abuse of the automotive horn by impatient or angry drivers is a common nuisance. Abuse of the automotive horn in this manner may be particularly prevalent in congested traffic conditions, such as in cities or heavily populated suburban areas where traffic is heavy. Nevertheless, abuse of automotive horns has become so common that it is of concern in a wide range of urban, suburban, or rural settings, for example in shopping malls, parking lots, and in the vicinity of sports arenas or recreation centers.
The abuse of automotive horns also raises a number of public safety issues. Abuse of automotive horns is associated with the increasing problem of "road rage," a condition caused by driver frustration. Under these circumstances, the abuse of the automotive horn may provoke a violent response by a nearby driver.
The abuse of automotive horns in the manner herein described is characterized by a length and repetition of horn use that is unnecessary when the horn is properly used, leads to annoyance to other drivers and non-drivers, and also increases the general level of "noise pollution
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check fuse

by placing the jumper batter on the wrong terminals there is every chance that the ECM is cooked from a power surge. The immobiliser is indicative of a corrupted CPU program which is in the ECM