20 Most Recent 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Use your key on the door to get into the cabin & open the hood

Rear differential. Going straight or turning?

its not the door its self that doesn't work,it is opened by a vacume valve and closed with a vacume valve,and it is not an easy job even for a mechanic

This has to be the automatic transmission. It could be as simple as a clogged/dirty filter or as serious as a malfunctioning front pump. Even a low level of trans fluid could cause this, which would indicate a leak.

losing power sounds like to me

05 GC, but what drive line, what engine, what transmission, what transfer case. and evne more important where is the 4wd lever set? does it make noise in all gears, all transfer case MODES???? sure , buy and electronic stethoscope like this, http://www.amazon.com/Steelman-97220-EngineEAR-Diagnostic-Listening/dp/B00396FBRY/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414326169&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=automotive+electronic+stethoscope+steelman you clamp the mike to many drive line parts. transmission, quite at POP time. transfercase quite? then move the MIKE to the suspension parts. you will find it. thats a lot cash to spend guessing. the tool works like magic it will show you (heard) what is making noise. if it cant find the noise, 99%^ its U-joints, after all i can not clamp the MIKE to drive/prop shafts. . but that is a big clue, have you tried spraying all suspension joints with silicon oil spray. that would be first. way before parts. are you in the salt belt????? google that. Last, what 4wd you have, options? Quadra-Trac-II NV 247 Quadra-Drive NV247 more testing if you shift the xfr case to neutral just before a bump does it still make noise? then repeat that for transmission , neutral. do the tests off road, or far from other cars, and peds. repeat the test in 2wd selection, seen here. (im assuming this is what you have, its unstated)( http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/QT2004.JPG ps: noise is the most complex problem it is also very dangerous on cars that only make noise moving. use a stethoscope. and find this easy an safely. use real headphones(muffs) and 2 persons, one drives other listens and barks orders. win.

vehicle info would of been nice but I have read about rivets holding frames/unibodies together and loosening up causing similar noises mainly with Chrysler products

the wiper blade arm or the main arm to main drive shaft arm.? my guess is the harder one. inside arm to shaft. first off all this is covered in the FSM, buy one? or you can cheat and pretend to buy the parts and it become obvious in that process. lets explore that idea. http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=590389&ukey_make=1064&ukey_model=15529&modelYear=1995&searchString=rear%20wiper see NUT 17 ? see cover that tilts up there? turn that nut counter clockwise, and it comes off the the arm comes off the shaft. on most cars it will take, a small puller (they sell them its a tool for arms) or you can tap the side, with a small plastic tip hammer and it may pop loose. depends on salt damage, end life outside, etc. that is it. on arms.

IS , (now that is a hard word to answer IS) its just a silly light, the light glows as the results of the PCM brain calculation, based on speed and time and load. it be the same as an old car, and you brother took out the operators guide and yell, hey BRO, that books says your oil is overdue. and your bro is way smarter than any PCM. for sure. the purpose is to prevent abuse of the drive-line. most folks ignore maintenance so its like a virtual guilty conscience. or as a nasty Nanny.

did you read all words in the FSM first? lots of details. 04 is here for free, see brake chapter, there? http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service these systems are complex best bet, is always RTM first then avoid costly mistakes or???? https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/FacetSearchResults.aspx?make=Jeep&year=2005&model=GRAND+CHEROKEE+LIMITED&engine=5.7L+HEMI+V8+-+MDS&producttype=All+Product+Types&ptCatId=All+Product+Types insane cost of book' but can buy CD on fleabay, id do that.

double posted, ANON back up one post and read

why?, i bet it good. pull neg lug of battery term.. remove PCM screws unlock pcm conn, locks, pull gently the connectors. (ware a wrist ground strap) pull the connectors off. bingo, its out. to put back do reverse. the FSM book covers this. read it. any new unit will need to be programmed to your cars , options. same with used. the FSM states , not to condemn any ECU/PCM until you proved the inputs are good. are they? and the outputs must not be shorter, or BAM , you just blew up 1 more PCM. repeats endle$$ly why not , post the symptoms.

yes, lots. old posts. my guess you meant it WILL NOT CRANK>?

You checked for OBD Codes? Checked any data? Component tested anything ? Battery any good?

parked or moving or both? both lamps, and on low or high beams or both. key ON or key removed. we cant guess all that, you must say.

sure is not, safe, ANON. both HL lamps? and you never state if car is USA Car, or not? and if it has DRL. (used in Canada big time) Daylight, Running lamps. 1: DRL bad , if you have. it 2: loose HL fuse. 3: bad HL relay. 4: bad wiring. only while driving and never parked, now that makes this hard. scan it with a scan tool when it flickers. got DTC errors? some of these cars have other complex options, like automatic, day night sensors. and other stuff. alldata.com has the wiring diagrams and all options show. read that first , after scanning it. USA answered, not export model. of any kind are my answers.

Michele, most systems run on a 3 flasher bases 1 for left 1 for right and 1 for hazard, it should be located with other flasher units, and check your relays.

• A/T or M/T (auto or stick, gee)
• if A/T is this the 42RE box>? are you in DRIVE? or 1 or 2 gear.
• does rpm rise above 3000 rpm > at your attempt? if not ,its a bad engine (weak)
• is the shift linkage even shifting correctly (movement top and bottom)
• check levels yet. (and for pink ./red AFT not black-metal flake
• change the filter yet? or skip service. at 50k miles. ?????
• check all fuses yet>?
• using a basic OBD2 scan tool are there any tranny DTC errors?>
• does the FSM stall test pass? in 1st.? and reverse?
• if stall fails, slips , then tranny bad. if not its really stuck in 1st gear.

The TCM commads the gear change, there is no valve body brain. the TCM shifts to second with good inputs to the TCM if the TCM sees bad inputs it will tell you, SCAN IT.

2005 for sure? not 3.0 CRD? what box?, transfer case. or main tranny, and if yes, which of the many, a/T and M/t? we cant guess any of that. what country,,,, as ours dont have that engine. and if diesel it will run a special gear box. so... we cant guess this. 05 JEEP WJ must be export model???? look at this wiki page, see that there is no 2.8 there, be the first to add it? and be famous? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Grand_Cherokee

wont start.. service elec brake system displayed