2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

the wiper blade arm or the main arm to main drive shaft arm.? my guess is the harder one. inside arm to shaft. first off all this is covered in the FSM, buy one? or you can cheat and pretend to buy the parts and it become obvious in that process. lets explore that idea. http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=590389&ukey_make=1064&ukey_model=15529&modelYear=1995&searchString=rear%20wiper see NUT 17 ? see cover that tilts up there? turn that nut counter clockwise, and it comes off the the arm comes off the shaft. on most cars it will take, a small puller (they sell them its a tool for arms) or you can tap the side, with a small plastic tip hammer and it may pop loose. depends on salt damage, end life outside, etc. that is it. on arms.

IS , (now that is a hard word to answer IS) its just a silly light, the light glows as the results of the PCM brain calculation, based on speed and time and load. it be the same as an old car, and you brother took out the operators guide and yell, hey BRO, that books says your oil is overdue. and your bro is way smarter than any PCM. for sure. the purpose is to prevent abuse of the drive-line. most folks ignore maintenance so its like a virtual guilty conscience. or as a nasty Nanny.

did you read all words in the FSM first? lots of details. 04 is here for free, see brake chapter, there? http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service these systems are complex best bet, is always RTM first then avoid costly mistakes or???? https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/FacetSearchResults.aspx?make=Jeep&year=2005&model=GRAND+CHEROKEE+LIMITED&engine=5.7L+HEMI+V8+-+MDS&producttype=All+Product+Types&ptCatId=All+Product+Types insane cost of book' but can buy CD on fleabay, id do that.

double posted, ANON back up one post and read

why?, i bet it good. pull neg lug of battery term.. remove PCM screws unlock pcm conn, locks, pull gently the connectors. (ware a wrist ground strap) pull the connectors off. bingo, its out. to put back do reverse. the FSM book covers this. read it. any new unit will need to be programmed to your cars , options. same with used. the FSM states , not to condemn any ECU/PCM until you proved the inputs are good. are they? and the outputs must not be shorter, or BAM , you just blew up 1 more PCM. repeats endle$$ly why not , post the symptoms.

yes, lots. old posts. my guess you meant it WILL NOT CRANK>?

You checked for OBD Codes? Checked any data? Component tested anything ? Battery any good?

parked or moving or both? both lamps, and on low or high beams or both. key ON or key removed. we cant guess all that, you must say.

sure is not, safe, ANON. both HL lamps? and you never state if car is USA Car, or not? and if it has DRL. (used in Canada big time) Daylight, Running lamps. 1: DRL bad , if you have. it 2: loose HL fuse. 3: bad HL relay. 4: bad wiring. only while driving and never parked, now that makes this hard. scan it with a scan tool when it flickers. got DTC errors? some of these cars have other complex options, like automatic, day night sensors. and other stuff. alldata.com has the wiring diagrams and all options show. read that first , after scanning it. USA answered, not export model. of any kind are my answers.

Michele, most systems run on a 3 flasher bases 1 for left 1 for right and 1 for hazard, it should be located with other flasher units, and check your relays.

• A/T or M/T (auto or stick, gee)
• if A/T is this the 42RE box>? are you in DRIVE? or 1 or 2 gear.
• does rpm rise above 3000 rpm > at your attempt? if not ,its a bad engine (weak)
• is the shift linkage even shifting correctly (movement top and bottom)
• check levels yet. (and for pink ./red AFT not black-metal flake
• change the filter yet? or skip service. at 50k miles. ?????
• check all fuses yet>?
• using a basic OBD2 scan tool are there any tranny DTC errors?>
• does the FSM stall test pass? in 1st.? and reverse?
• if stall fails, slips , then tranny bad. if not its really stuck in 1st gear.

The TCM commads the gear change, there is no valve body brain. the TCM shifts to second with good inputs to the TCM if the TCM sees bad inputs it will tell you, SCAN IT.

2005 for sure? not 3.0 CRD? what box?, transfer case. or main tranny, and if yes, which of the many, a/T and M/t? we cant guess any of that. what country,,,, as ours dont have that engine. and if diesel it will run a special gear box. so... we cant guess this. 05 JEEP WJ must be export model???? look at this wiki page, see that there is no 2.8 there, be the first to add it? and be famous? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Grand_Cherokee

Try locking driver door and then unlock with key to see if this dissables alarm. Do this with window down while sitting in driver seat.

wow.

Probably a. Went actuator going bad and getting hung up alittle

front or rear.??? my guess front.... wild guess. if car has pads with the noise makers this is normal and the early warning. if pads are thick (why not look first???) and squeal.?

1. this is normal all disc brakes squeal, can and will if they want to.
2. or has missing anti-squeal shims on pad due bad mech. serv.
3. or not using anti-squeal glue on back side of new pads.
4. if in a perfect world they can in fact squeal.

if you have new rotors and pads and all above is good. they may not squeal. the rotors can be tad bump and the pads will resonate to this rotor surface, its harmless this. only annoying. other factors, why not do a full inspection of the pads and rotors first and not just guess and wonder. like: OMG:

• Cracked rotors
• leaking DOT 3/4
• calipers guide pins seized.
• Pads shot
• missing parts, the FSM shows all parts as does jeep parts page.
• rotors shot , worn illegally thin, warped, or just ugly bad and old.

this is what we call SOP standard operatiing proceedures.

double anon posted, and double answered again..... 303 means , weak combustion on #3. that means all factors effecting combustion. are at issue. not just spark. compression at spec. ever hear of a 20buck compressing gauge>? no intake air leaks near #3 bad wiring to #3 injector. or bad luck the other coil is bad. or bad luck the other injector was bad too. clogged injectors. lets say, all injector screens (10 mircon) are partially clogged. and $3 had margional compression. so swapping injectors old , is a false move. proves nothing. we call these junk yard swaps. you can get lucky but in truth proves little. Are there other DTCs are the pending DTCS at 303 , what is the freeze frame data. what is LTFT?? (long term fuel trim) +40% (lean max.) what is closed loop status at the fail. closed or open?

which engine? ; again, and WHAT ENGINE ??????? your fixing and engine and don't know what's there? really? 303 means misfire. but more accurately it means weak combustion and can be cause by 3 things. or more. 1: bad spark , be it the plug or wires, or coil 2: low compression, lots of ways. 10 or more, ask. 3: bad air fuel ratio to that cylinder 3, air leaks? the ECU discovers this with the spark monitor this monitor (runs all the time) it sees, the crank shaft not accelerate fast enough, (weak power stroke on #3) that is all you need to know on P030x codes. if spark is prefect and AFR good. then it must be compression, right? even water leaks to the combustion chamber can do this. it is misfiring, that you can bank on. no engine posted, why do that? all we know here, is a body. a 05 GC. 3.7L or 4.7L? or? 5.7L ????? ill quote the fsm for you. i toss coin, lands on 3.7 the FSM listed items for 303, some are IFFY (comments)

• INTERMITTENT MISFIRE #3 only. !!!
• VISUAL INSPECTION (of spark and injector parts)
• (F142), (K334) ASD RELAY OUPUT CIRCUIT (i disagree)
• ENGINE MECHANICAL PROBLEM (50 causes)
• IGNITION COIL
• COIL CONTROL CIRCUIT
• SPARK PLUG
• CHECKING FUEL PRESSURE (why only 1 cylinder?)
• FUEL PUMP INLET STRAINER PLUGGED (ditto)
• RESTRICTED FUEL SUPPLY LINE (ditto)
• FUEL PUMP MODULE (ditto)
• CHECKING FUEL LEAK DOWN (injectors leaks)
• FUEL INJECTOR (injectors sticks)
• INJECTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT (shorts or opens in the line)
• PCM (last , if ever. i bet not it)

Basics is better. 1: SPARK BAD. 2: FUELING BAD. (LOTS OF WAYS , FUELing OR AIR LEAKS) 3: BAD COMPRESSION, or even water leaks or cam lobe damage or valves in head bad. , does your engine use COPS? coil over plugs???? why not say what engine. did you replace the spark plugs and use the correct type and gap them per the hood EPA sticker (look up) and if it has COPS, did you at lease make sure the COP boot on #3 is brand new? if not why not? using the old boots on #3 is wrong, idea. they all fail. soon. the 3.7 has COPS put new boot on it. (buy them, if possible. (i carry spares at all times) then look in the wells. are the wells full of oil or water. BINGO. did you even look there? the one hard part of misfire is , is the AFR, air fuel mix ok on #3 and compression, W.O.T. the tool is like $20 and 15min work.

classic Fed. P0301 errors misfire #1 cylinder. sure it fails smog 3 ways. the CEL glows, (fail) DTC stored, fail 2 and the exhaust gases are dirty. hopeless yes. the misfire is the deal. topic. this error really means Combustion is weak on #1 , nothing more. causes are many , ill list a few. not guesses, 1: bad spark plug on #1, ever heard of a tune up? 2: low compression on #1 3: bad fueling on #1 4: water or oil leaks to #1 5: air leaks on #1 intake tube. 6: injector $1 weak or faulting, sticking or ? bad. bad fueling #1 means too rich or 2 lean there are tests (ASE books to read) for each class failure. why not get it fixed. or buy the tools and DIY. its always a choice, unstated. desires.?

does the 4 wheel drive work probably not and it could be the switch for it