20 Most Recent 2000 Isuzu Rodeo - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Lt & Rt sides & Rr (Behind flywheel) of engine block,some may be located in cylinder head(S) as well.....V-6 ?? If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ralph_2f0886b7d6af32ce

The way the newer systems work the engine spins at least a few turns while the computer checks everything for correct readings. In the old days it was "cool" to be able to reach in and "bump" the key and have the car start. It meant you had the car tuned perfectly. Now the vehicle computer will not turn fuel on until it is happy with readings. One trick you can try is turn key to full on position and let it sit for a second or two before turning key the rest of the way to crank. This allows the system a second to do it's checking without wasting power cranking. Had Nissan that was just like this. Just wait a few beats before turn to full crank. You can also listen for fuel pump whine in that few seconds, and then hopefully whine to stop when pressure hits full. If whine never stops fuel pump may be getting weak. If you can get access to higher end code reader you can also check for "pending" codes that may be showing up sometimes (holding start up) but then working (so engine finally fires).

2000 rodeo 3.2L v6? on all machines on earth, find and fix abnormal sounds first and grinding tops my list. power loss is 2nd. to that. as it will be zero power soon.

1. get car serviced?
2. DIY , you have tools?

DIY, get a $5 stethoscope an learn to find sources of noise. posting here is impossible, we cant hear it and do those checks. use that tool all over engine, to find what parts is making noise. do not get near fan, if you dont understand that.the stop and get skilled service. if the noise can HAPPEN parked, that makes it 10x more easy does it, parked in park or neutral , gunning throttle?

which engine 2.2L or 3.2L? 4wd or 2wd? 2000 Rodeo, no job stated?, was trans removed?, engine pulled? what? what makes you think the A/t trans uses vacuum? if true. what lines to what? all vacuum lines to every thing, that it? what country,? our USA cars , all have EPA vacuum maps under the hood, open engine hood, look up, see that sticker and yes, some times it skips vacuum lines to brake booster or trans. its only for smog that sticker, so... but is helplful what you never said is what engine you have , as that greatly effects vacuum routing, on all cars. made on earth. im on line and there is no vacuum map.drawings it only shows jobs, pulling lines by step, (marking them first) no words on vacuum for tranny at all. (no vac. modulator now) booster EVAP all VSV valves PCV FPR (fuel pump reg) Throttle body Electronic Vacuum Sensing Valve (EVSV) please state number of lines disconnected, and if both ends disconnected (a horror) if confused, show photos. of dangling lines open the FSM book and see each step, for connecting lines say the booster hose (huge) it says, connect the booster hose to the large nipple on the Plenum, (its the only one that fits) Etc. see hose where does it go, it goes to an object. the object has a name, like VSV for evap so that hose is called out in the FSM factory service manual or alldata.com log in and read, it is there.

seems to me (id use my meter to find truth) a short in the HL. head lights. and possible wrong size fuse in that circuit too. find a good ASE shop. they will make short (no pun) work of this. or buy a DMM and ask how to do this. or inspect all HL wires for shorts. it also seems to me the park lamps side is shorted. but i cant see dash and the effect. are you saying the warning lights in cluster or blinking or the cluster back lights flash. if back lights , that is PARK (via dimmer) in the dash. so if the backlights dim that means the park feed is shorted. but, like I said, I never guess. I use a meter.

Check and replace front or rear turn signal bulb

have you checked the front hubs are engaged or engaging

Well clear code and drive it about 50 to 100 miles to try reset the monters and see if light stay out if so go get it smog so the system that could couse this is a bad wireing harness this may be hard for you to diagnosis this system put if you want me to help you can emaile me and i will send you the hole diagnosis chartDTC P1340 ION Sensing Module Cylinder ID Fault (Cylinder Synchronization Fail)

Check this out. I hope it helps. https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.sectionDiagram&siteid=2&vehicleid=43759&diagram=4626040

Cam timing not correct on that bank. Veryify cam timing. Not sure if the engine is a "zero clearance" engine but, if so, the cam timing error may have bent some valves! Oh nooooo!

seen as there has been a leak in the coolant system in the heater core it is possible that the coolant system has a air lock in it and a few things can resolve this. fill the coolant system to the correct level just with water until the problem is rectified. most vehicles have a air bleed screw. with the engine run up to normal temp and the pressure cap on bleed the air out of the coolant system by undoing the screw a few turns and releasing the air from the coolant system, if fitted with a bleed valve it will be some where on the higher part of the coolant system. if not fitted with one it can also be done by raising the front of the vehicle in the air by a trolley jack and using a coolant pressure tester on the coolant system , compressing the air and moving it along to the radiator . then when the compression tester is moved off the system top up the rad and reserve to the correct level and see if this helps . also it is possible that the thermostat may have been damaged and isn't working properly. check the throttle cable for being kinked , jammed or faulty return spring , also check full throttle travel at the butterfly and that it is returning to the closed position. next up would be clean the throttle body as well as the iac (idle control circuit) these get gummed up from time to time and can cause a issue as well. other possibles are a vaccume leak . hope this is of some help mate.

under the bonnet u will find a black plastic box that not only has fuses but also relays in it . on the reverse side of the plastic cover it has a diagram of which is how you will locate the relay u are after , , locate the one you are after, even swap with another that is the same just to test it out. hope this helps

Many keys today have a microchip in the key itself, and if the chip has malfunctioned the car won't respond normally. Your second key working is proof the trouble is in the key not the car. I think they can be checked in some Autoparts stores.

google year make mode how to replace waterpump. or most librays have shop type manuals. cant check it out but you can make copies.

While pulling it into off, shake your steering wheel.

About 6 quarts you check at the parts store or in your manual

I would try changing the filter and fluid first. But It could be a shift solenoid or a broken band in the transmission.

The oil filter is right under the radiator there's a skid plate with two bolts i take one out and lossen the other and pull it to the side

yo tengo el mismo problema con mi camioneta isuzu rodeo 2000 V6 3.2

Disconnect battery. Jack up vehicle on the drivers side and support. remove cables from starter. Remover the 2 bolts from the starter. Slide starter towards the motor mount cut the wheels to the left and lower starter throught the linkage. Reverse to reinstall. Sometimes easier if wheel is removed. I use a lift and have not had to do it this way for many years. If this is a v-6 engine and I assume it is you MUST lower the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold on the drivers side. Sometimes you need to remove the complete pipe. I usually remove the rubber hangers and let it hang. Tight fit. Be VERY careful with the bolts on the exhaust manifold. This is NOT for the novice.