1995 Jeep Wrangler - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

hacks, are not easy or fun to correct. undone many . saved many the cars. (im a sparks guy, (and controls)) is this a head lights question?, car has lots of lights. or cluster lights? tell more get more, or read the FSM (the amazing factory serv. manual) 93 YJ may work http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service see the wiring pages? i have 93 fsm on up. can post drawings. but need to know the full story. like this. i get in car, and do x and expect Z what is x and z.?

ok, so you know where it is nor not? its in the heater box. and the box is in the dash so, the box needs to be removed. then box split (screws) then replaced, the FSM covers this, ive posted this over 100 times here. again. YJ, the real deal. real jeep book; yj 93 is here for free, they are same. heating and air. cond.... yes HVAC. http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service pdf page 41 of 51 starts there.... every word. clear.

Vapor lock is something for carberated cars. Modern fuel injected cars have fuel pump in the tank and the whole fuel system is pressurized. Why do you think you have vapor lock?

run the fault codes check ignition timing is not too far advanced have a compression test done to check for valve seat insert loose.

Sound like a connection (loos of the ground circuit) problem to the in tank fuel pump, I wouls suggest you check all the connections from the fire wall back for any loose or corroded connectors.

nice double post. ok backup one and read. please.

in both 2wd and 4wd? do no use 4wd on dry pavement free of ice or it will WIND up and make noise. (RTM) get it serviced, finding causes of noise, moving is dangerous can be, bad wheel bearings. bad u-joints driving on ice free pavement, noise is normal. bad ball joints. and other suspension parts up front, get it serviced./

Did you have a look at the prop shafts universal joints if they are worn or dry? Also check the sliding joint for wear if the prop shaft has them.

Take out the oil sender switch and fit a gauge , if the gauge reads low the pump relief spring may be broken or it could be stuck . the oil pick up tube filter could be blocked if there is a lot of sludge in the oil pan,

Chrysler Jeep Ignition Switch LS711 LS922 Replacement by Wells EM: https://youtu.be/reonxApWkVU

Here's a short video i found on you tube hope it helps you

If its cranking fine you have one of two problems either your not getting any fuel or you have no spark. When toy turn the key to the on positron but don't crank the car lean back and listen for a whirling sound that is your fuel pump. If you don't hear anything is probably not working spray some starter fluid in your trottle body if starts you now know your problem. If the pump is working you need to check for spark one way to check is pull a spark plug wire off the plug plug it into a spark tester and crank it if you don't see any spark the problem may be your ignition module. Hope this helps you

sounds like you are working on a car FSM free? why do that? 95 YJ early wrangler i have 95 yj fsm and 93, the 93-95 are a year class range. very simular. here is a free 93 fsm with full schematics in chapter 8w wiring chapter, clik pdf 76 is page YJ 19 actual and as you can see its cave man simple 2 wires. minus to ECU ignitor driver. transistor (inside ecu) and + goes to a142 sheet 5 (pdf 62) im not sure what part A<B<C is, a fuseable link, is my guess and is blown. but that be a bingo spot for sure. the full manual is there. see spark chapter. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service posted over 100 times, this link, its not new.

You most likely have a hydraulic clutch. Thus either the master or slave cylinder would have to fail to cause the problem you describe.

Bad idle solenoid. Located on throttle body. It's black. Plugs in to wiring cable. You need a torx bit to remove. It's a cheap and easy fix. Also, get some throttle body cleaner and a tooth brush. Saturate the inside of the throttle body with cleaner and scrub out the black soot. Do this with throttle body in wide open position. Be sure to clean the edges of the butterfly good. They soot up and stick preventing throttle body from closing all the way.

No Manufacture is going to honor a recall on a 1995 vehicle Why didn't the body shop know the answer? Why did you not ask a dealer?

double posted, back up 1 post and see a great answer no spark.

why not the full story? it ran ok, but misfires, so decided to do a real tune up, yes? or is this a new engine, we can not guess context ,only you can say it. no spark at coil? all spark plugs dead. but i bet you dont know about ASD. and takes 2 people to check spark because 1 person can not turn the key and see spark by him self. and it can only last for 3 seconds so test 1 is no coil spark is. check that the ASD pulls in. does it? if not fix that. if it does, do you get spark for 3second then ends as ASD drops? bingo fix that. this page shows how all works, and to use the DTC errors for clues. big clues. http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/ASD.html

wont crank or wont start, no car starts (cept my M/t) unless cranked with the starter motor. the starter motor starts the engine. so which is it, not cranking? also there is a Immobilizer (SKIM) lamp that must not be on , cranking or its will not start. by design. this is correct. the CEL lamp glowing tells you 2 things EFI is now active and the (ECU/PCM) just passed the basic test. if its slow? to come on , the fuses for it are loose/bad or the battery is weak. or discharged, or the key switch is failing. find any ASE shop in town and get it checked out. ASE are pro grade shops. that are honest and very skilled.

double posted word for word. and still no mention of the 3 ends. left/right or center pinon... sigh.

the axle as 3 ends. name just one. left , right , front center.(pinion)