1995 Jeep Wrangler - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Wiper switch assembly on the column itself

Try auto transmissions droylsden Manchester

is it stuck in a gear or will it not go into gear without grinding

tails lights are the GLOW when the headlights are pulled one cluck or 2, tails are also parking light (one click)stop lamps HAVE nothing to do with that,he never said but implies, the brake lamps are dead.but OP, try posting what is dead, and not mix TL with BL.my tails lamps are out , whith head lamps on.orwhen i brake , both stop lamps are out.this will help.

its a brake fuse not the tail park lights.got trailer wiring hacks on car/ (look)there are 2 lamps, lamps short.put in one new lamp, does it work?y/nif no , and the new brake lamp switch as 12v on both sides key on and brake pedal reset then the wires are open.if the voltage reads way low not 12v this line is grounding out.this is easy to do with and DMM for say $20 , sold at walfart too.

Could be the ecu in need of repair, not sending power to the coil. If there is no check engine light coming on, in the dash, with the ignition turned on, then it's probably the ecu.

Drive at normal speed or bit faster if u can about 40 mph then put foot hard down if revs go up and not the speed as is should then clutch probe .cheap checks first tho if hiydrolec clutch check for leaks .if cable check adjustment hope that helps a bit

check your instrument panel, dashboard light, and interior light fuses.

yes. anything with the Air Injection Reaction (Fuel, fire and air) system will cause backfire.

your starter relay may be going bad; or your ignition switch is failing.

usually, door panels just pull off, but they make a special tool for door panel removal. check your local auto parts store for specifications.

the instrument cluster should not be a problem. there should be bolts holding the front dashplate in, just look in odd places on the front, sides, and bottom of the dash to remove it. after removing the plate, your instrument cluster should be easy to remove.

Actually, in some cases, the transmission may have a problem shifting only sometimes, if your TPS, VSS, or any solenoid on the transmission is going bad. an intermittent problem could be the case; and sometimes, it's just a loose wire.

oh my. in this case, depending on the location of the parking brake, you may need to disassemble your console/dash to install a new parking brake. if the cable has been severed, then re-routing it will entail going through the firewall.

this could be linked to a fuse or relay. if your headlights work normally while driving, then the relay may have gone bad.

Try the igniton fuse. there are multiple fuses for the ignition in the dash panel, and engine bay fuseblock, just try and see if one of them may have blown.

the Four Wheel Drive Actuator is usually computer-controlled; unless it is on a later model vehicle. in order to have the actuator locked in permanently, you need to use a switch to electronically enable it, and then disable the switch.

Tank is going into vacuum w/ cap on. Either the cap is bad or the fuel tank vent valve is bad. Have you tried changing the fuel filter?

The first step would be to read the stored codes to see if they give you any insight into the issue.The next step will be to perform normal "crank, no start" diagnostics.All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for. These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out, you will know which system is having the problem.

Remove the distributor cap and rotor, lift the sensor out and drop in the new one.