20 Most Recent 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis - Page 2 Questions & Answers

You need to take some soap and put it in a spray bottle and be sure the system is charged and run the system and look for the leak. It works real well for finding leaks. Did you check the Schrader valves to be sure the leak was not there or a rub place on the bottom of one of the lines.

Heat light switch went bad or body control module.

Hello Steve, From your post, "Finally had enough and stuffed a small block of wood between the driver's side bottom of the molded plastic linkage frame enough to lift the whole thing enough to put a moderate amount of pressure behind the wiper blade..", it sounds like this box is warped or somehow out of alignment. Is it possible for you to buy this box from a wrecking yard? Has you car ever been in a collision? If so the frame may have so un-repaired buckling resulting in the misalignment.

Sounds like a bad IAC valve. This will throw no codes and will also pass a smoke test.

Power Window assemblY Needs replacing. I've had to replace my driver side assembly a few times over the years in my 97 accord after a wreck on that side. Something doesn't line up right anymore and it eventually causes it to wear out. Steel cable and plastic parts don't work real well together over time- that plastic can wear out. Tricky part can be getting the door panel off. From there it can be pretty straight forward. May need an extra set of hands to get the window just right to attach to the bracket on the regulator assembly. May find some useful videos online, even if it's for a different car it can give you a good idea.

Voltage drop test the electrical circuit , do know how to do automotive electrical testing . Lose connection , resistance in the circuit , lose ground Mastering Voltage Drop Testing with Pete Meier and Jerry Truglia Testing Electric Fuel Pump Problems with Voltage Drop Test

Perhaps this will help you:

The socket is called a power point, it is not a cigar lighter. You can find the location of the fuse in the owner's in the "Roadside Emergencies" section. Here is link to the manual, it is a Crown Victoria which is the same car, the Grand Marquis manuals are no longer published from Ford. http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2000-CrownVicotria-version-2_om_EN-US_12_1999.pdf

Ignition wire ?????? power from ignition switch , power to coil's etc....

No. If you plan on this, you also need the key, ignition lockset, BCM/GEM, Instrument panel, and PCM. If you want to radio to work, you'll need it also. Not sure, but I believe the years you can use are 99 to 03. When changing a computer(PCM), you need all the security with it. Otherwise it is off to the dealer to have it programmed.

No it is different.

Have you removed air filter housing cover and checked condition of your air filter ? If so, then remove air housing and hoses up to the throttle and see if noise is still there. You may have loose intake clamps, check all and tighten.

Bob, The fact that it only happens when you are driving suggests that the vibration is 'shaking' a wire somewhere and causing a short. You can check all the wiring around the front headlights, rear tail lights, horn .. and find nothing.. My honest advice would be to take it to an auto electrician and let him identify the fault.

There is 14 .2 foot pounds of pressure in your cooling system . The problem is some one didn't tighten the cap correctly you have to push down on it turn it then turn it until it locks so its two turns .. The good news is the cooling system is likely fine its holding pressure .But if you have to add coolant you should do it through the recovery bottle that has no pressure follow the hose under the radiator cap that will lead to the recovery system storage bottle . This will also indicate the antifreeze level on the side of the unit ..

Watch any YouTube video the process will be similar to yours. You need a ball joint separating tool available for rent at most chain auto parts stores.

One place to check would be to remove the trim from the lower part of the B-pillar (the part between the front and back doors, where the rear door hinges are) on the driver side. There should be a plug near the floor connecting the wiring from the main power window switch on the driver's door to the two rear doors.

Hi mr Pettit, ,,,!!!!!!!!VERY FIRST THING CHECK ALL FUSES IN FUSE PANEL !!!!!!!!is this an aftermarket radio or is it OEM.?(factory)reason I inquire is if it is an aftermarket then when it's installed the wiring HARNESS. Is generally cut off and the power supply as well as out put speaker wiring and ground (if provided,many radios are grounded by the direct mounting of the body of radio bolted to the framework of its location or CHASSIS GROUND and the antennae connection also is ground ) wiring to intercept the leads on the radio .. If someone has cut off the harness then either they used the original BAT + conductor or they have added another separate wire . Obviously the circuit must be open on Bat+ conductor or there is NO GROUND . . YOU stated there is no voltage at the connection so the BAT + circuit is open . Check to see with test light to and locate the hot wire that may be added and may be the reason for adding . This wire will most likely be loosely taped intermittently outside of bundled wire going to fuse panel on drivers Side and may be improperly installed into fuse panel or has been pulled away from connection at fuse panel . Is very likely,Or where the added wire has intercepted another hot wire and improperly terminated or spliced or has pulled away here . Now if this wire is spliced INTO ANOTHER HOT WIRE CHECK ALL FUSES AND NOT JUST THE RADIO FUSE . After you establish the bat+ and connected to stereo there has to be a GROUNDING SIDE . Check to see . If you are perhaps , and am only speculating ,,testing it by simply temporarily placing stereo on seat or floorboard prior to bolting it in ,and connecting only the BAT+ wire you will also need to establish a ground and is easily done by connecting antenna wire if long ,enough or a short length of wire used as a jumper will do. Simply strip both ends of jumper ,power on radio and touch one end to any metal KNOWN part of car or CHASSIS , OR where it bolts up and touch the other end anywhere on the case or body of radio. Not to worry if you are touching any part of the stripped ends or other metal parts , you won't get a shock but you will see a few sparks and this is a good thing, and good in both aspects meaning a) your not getting lit up ,and b) there is current draw and the spark is an indicator you got it ! Huhuhaha , your fine . Look on radio and you should see lights ,LEDs or other sources to indicate power is on .. This is the best way or idea I have and know this from many times I've forgotten about the ground , I don't know why I do that though . Hahaha Also at this point you could temporarily test your speaker wires and is a good time to designate their location with output of speaker wires from radio use different color tape to identify ( red and black ) + And - of speaker wire and a different color tape to indicate what channel or location of speakers and write it down ., then it's simply a matter of matching color to color in that little tiny pain in the neck space the stereo fits into . . Let us know of your outcome , I'm actually real real curious personally . If this doesn't fit up your problem let me know in the comment box and we will figure it out together , it's a simple fix I do think so ........................Later on MUCHACHO . A. Goodwin .

a list of what to check
idle control valve
vacuum leak
air leak at intake manifold
throttle position sensor on throttle body

Did you reset the inertia switch that shuts pump down in case of collision?