2000 Mercury Grand Marquis - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. That is a lot of items changed for nothing. The flashing anti-theft light was telling you the answer. Key

1. Insert the key into the driver's side door lock.
2. Turn the key once, but not all the way to unlock the door. Leave the key in this position for 40-60 seconds. ...
3. Do this again, but turn the key in the opposite direction.
4. Remove the key from the door, get into your Ford, and start the engine. The system should be reset.

How to Reset the Anti-Theft System on Your Ford

.. And also this! https://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3731914 ..

I'll try to look it up in my shop manual when I get home. don-ohio

For the headlights, check to see if it is the lighting module: Usually it's a case of the regular headlights not working while the high beams (brights) still work if you hold them on while driving, but if you have a 1999-2011 Mercury Marquis, Mercury Marauder, or Crown Victoria, and your regular headlights and or tail lights don't work it probably is your LCM that used to cost around $1,000 to repair. The good news now is that Ford just finally extended the warranty on your LCM (Lighting Control Module) for free - both parts and labor and will install a new one for free! Ford has extended the warranty to 15 years/250,000 miles. THIS IS NOT A RECALL! They do not advertise this. Your regular headlights must not work properly in order to get a new LCM on this new extended warranty. It must be done at a Ford Dealer and the fix is free. Call your local Ford Dealer and tell them you need to make an appointment because your headlights don't work and that Ford has extended your warranty on the LCM. They may act like they don't know what you are talking about, so tell them it is the Customer Satisfaction Program 14N01. Have your car's Vin number ready as they will ask for it. You don't have to be the original owner. If they still act like they don't know what you are talking about ask to talk to the manager or tell them to call Ford Motor Company and ask them, or you can call Ford yourself. We had our 2003 Marquis done at a Ford dealer in August of 2014 in Scottsdale, AZ but first they checked out our LCM first to make sure it didn't work. As soon as they found out it didn't work, they installed a new LCM for free under the new warranty called "Customer Satisfaction Program 14N01".

it is a relay sir

yes, IP must come out.

Actuator —Electronic Blend Door Removal

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .

1. Remove the instrument panel. For additional information, refer to Section 501-12 .

1. Disconnect the connector

But, you sure it's the blend door actuator?

Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test

• The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A scan tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
• The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-32°C (40-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
• The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
• To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.
• If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.
• If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.
• To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).
• To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.
• Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
• Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.

Connect a fused jumper wire between EATC module C228 pin 26, circuit 246 (VT) and EATC module C227 pin 2, circuit 54 (LG/YE). Connect a second fused jumper wire between EATC module C228 pin 13, circuit 245 (BN/LG) and EATC module C227 pin 3, circuit 57 (BK).

• Does the actuator motor move in the clockwise direction?

Yes GO to A2 .
No GO to A3 .

I don't think it has one

Jack up the vehicle under the trunk you will see a cover with hoses coming out on its side the vent valve is under that cover /////the nuts and bolts will be severely rusted and don't try to open till you have replacements for them otherwise you willl not be able to reattach the cover you're going to need liquid wrench the new bolts and nuts long needle nose pliers also long vise grips angled needle nose pliers a long strong screw driver flat blade a 3/8 drive or 1/2 drive socket set a breaker bar in the drive your using , you'll need the long screw driver to wedge or the pliers to hold onto the bolt heads for removal and assembly also use antiseize lube on the threads have fun this is a pain because of the rusted bolts but just be patient you ll get it done wear safety glasses for rust an dirt to stay out of your eyes and a bandana around your mouth and one for your head good luck stephen

It's a tough one to pinpoint. Do an upper intake cleaning and clean the idle air bypass valve. Also clean the mass air flow sensors carefully.

This would require the use of advanced diagnostic software to determine where the ECM is setting the timing.

How about the rear stabilizer bars?

Should be a switch on dash with image of a tire.

have you check cooling fan/radiator fan is working at right temperature? Did you check coolant level?

B1318 Battery Voltage Low Air suspension module REFER to Section 414-00 . B1318 Battery Voltage Low LCM REFER to Section 414-00 . B1318 Battery Voltage Low NGVM REFER to Section 414-00 . B1318 Battery Voltage Low RCM REFER to Section 414-00 . Control module problem , your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop.

you have a windshield problem have it check out

-Speed sensor is bad. Check and replace it. Good luck and drive slow until it fixed. Mai

Sounds more like a control valve is not working correctly.. probably stuck in one position because you should always have heat from your heater core...like when you chose fresh air or recirculated air...it switches a valve to allow the change...well from cold to heat there's a valve also that switches the vent inside dashboard

You'll have to lower the gas tank.

If you have a warranty, take it back and tell them to fix it. Right now, it's worthless. You paid to have it fixed. Why would you pay and then dump it?

You need to take some soap and put it in a spray bottle and be sure the system is charged and run the system and look for the leak. It works real well for finding leaks. Did you check the Schrader valves to be sure the leak was not there or a rub place on the bottom of one of the lines.

Heat light switch went bad or body control module.