20 Most Recent 1994 Plymouth Acclaim - Page 5 Questions & Answers

The module receives the impulse from the distributor and this can be absent . so if the coil and module is new then it is possible that the module is not being triggered on accordingly.
check this out.

The diagram for belt routing on 1994 Plymouth Acclaim.

If this is front wheel drive (most likely is; will have drive axles in front leading toward engine and tranny).

1. Raise and secure the front of vehicle on stands, and drain tranny fluid into a pan or bucket.

2. Remove tire and tranny side drive axle.

3. Disconnect all components connected to transmission (shifter cable) and any sensors, wires or wiring harnesses.

4. With a jack secure the transmission from underneath. (do not jack up tranny, merely put a very slight pressure to hold in place)

5. take out all transmission bolts that securet the transmission to the block (engine). If there is enough room, slowly lower the jack (another person secures transmission from top (keeping it balanced), and pull the transmission out. Be careful that the torque converter does not fall - it is heavy and may come out with transmission. (usually bolted to flywheel, also known as flexplate). This will have fluid as well in it, and will need to be drained (most of it).

Installation is reverse; also, if no room to drop tranny, two people can easily lift it from the top. (Cherry picker recommended.)

Please let me know if you need further assistance.

carsandcomps,

Guru, Premium Expert @ Fixya.com

you cant. You must remove per direction, and thats a job

Check the TPS (Throttle Psition Sensor) it is located in the engine compartment by the throttle cables.

sounds like starter selenoid.

Dennis, replacing a heater core is never easy on a car unless you can access it from under the hood. More than likely you will have to remove it from inside the vehicle under the dash on the passenger side. Removing it and installing it is the easy part. Getting to it is the hard part. It is just a matter of removing enough dash parts to gain access to the core. That is the hard part. This is why this is a very expensive repair as the majority of the cost is labor. The core itself it relatively inexpensive. Look under the hood and follow the heater hoses to the firewall. You will then know the location of the core and know if it can be removed from under the hood. If you have to remove it from inside the vehicle just slowly start taking parts of the dash off and go very slow. Take photos is necessary in order to remember how to put it all back together. Some dash panels will snap off and some will be held in place with a screw or clip. Be very careful and do not break and parts. You can do this if you take you time.

If the filter was clogged so bad it will be very hard to start as well. Check the TPS voltage for that should fix your problem on this car

if you only have water in the rad. then that is your first problem. then you need to check the temp. switch maybe go ahead and replace it. and how long ago has the water pump been replaced. what kindof car or truck is this by the way?

cheak the fuse at the back of the unit

Not as bad as you may think. The belts inside goes on the grooved pulleys, the back side of the belt goes on the smooth pulleys.

either by your feet, or under the hood, or by the passengers feet.
~Dan Herzberg~

The alternator is located at the top left corner of the engine with a serpentine belt going around the pulley that runs it.

if you have 4 cylinder engine your water pump is under the plastic timing covers and you will have to remove the timing belt because it drives the pump.if its overheating could be you thermostat or is your pump leaking?

No freeze plug on radiator, freeze plugs only on engine block and cylinder head's. radiator drain ****, located on passenger side below upper coolant hose all the way to the button of radiator.

take a fuse out 1 at a time ,,,,,a blown fuse will have a black spot in the center and theres a small peice of metal that connects to each side of the fuse,in a bad fuse the metalpeice will be separated...remove and replace...if all else change them all...thanks and have a nice day

Check the mounting on the cable and make sure it's not kinked somewhere. One side is connected behind the gauges in the dash, and the other is on your transmission. Usually a black cable, can be seen protruding from the firewall. (engine compartment wall, between dash and engine)

I did it twice and if you are fairly skilled it will take 4-6 hours, if you have the V6.
Here is the steps:
1. Move car to a place that can support a jack and engine stand.
2. Disconnect battery
3. Loosen wheel lugs on passenger side front tire
4. Jack car on passenger side to lift wheel of the ground
5. Put a block under the oil pan to support the engine
6. Block car frame on left side
7. Remove left front tire
8. Remove v-belt
9. Remove idler pulley
10. Remove and support air conditioner compressor
11. Remove PS pump if you have one
12. Remove motor mount on left side and vacuum / gas connections connected to mount ( mark bolts as to locations )
13. Remove metal plate on engine ( mark bolts as before )
Tricky bolts are on the PS pump (Remove them through PS pulley holes)
14. Remove 3 plastic covers over timing belt ( mark bolts as before )
15. Note timing marks on overhead cams and crank.If none, make some.
16. Ease pressure off timing belt tensioner
17. Remove belt and replace with new. Trick here is to make sure you get the belt notches lined up. Head cams will shift when you remove the old belt. Do not tighten the belt tensioner fully or it will not perform as designed, it should be snug but be able to move.
END... replace part is backward order and drive away !!!