20 Most Recent 2005 Subaru Forester - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The latch handle pivots are rusted. Getting the handle off requires: * remove the hatch inner panels. * remove the nuts that secure the outside time panel under the hatch glass. I don't recall if this is actually needed ... * remove the nuts that hold the latch handle, and disconnect the rod to the lock mechanism. You can now either clean up the latch handle or replace it with a new one.

If you have a Subaru alarm system, you need to press unlock twice in quick succession to unlock the tailgate (and the passenger doors). There is also a 30mm round access panel on the tailgate inside trim panel. You can stick your finger in an unlock the tailgate. Your tailgate outside lock handle may be rusted solid, which is jamming the lock.

The CEL and Cruise blinking is the error indication. Could be any of several issues. 1. The gas cap is loose, or leaking. This is a VERY common error and is written up in the owners manual. The fuel filler neck could have a leak or rust hole. 2. A small exhaust leak on the "donut" gasket in front of the catalytic converter can cause a"cat inefficiency error", fixable by replacing the donut. For an '07, it unlike that the $200+ fuel/air O2 sensor or the cat needs replacing.

Could be the catalytic converter heat shields, or the exhaust heat shields bolted to the underbody. Might also be the catalytic converter internal converter honeycomb broken loose. Unusual, but can occur if excess unburned fuel is being passed to the converter. High fuel consumption is another clue.

while you are at the garage , have then read the fault codes what there is on the turbo is a set of vanes in the turbine shell that redirect the exhaust gas onto the turbine wheel to give quicker response on acceleration at low rpms when running at rpms these vanes move to allow unrestricted gas flow to the turbine and to the exhaust system those vanes operate in very high temperatures and do become stuck and so don't move freely there is a vacuum operated actuator on the turbo housing that moves the lever for those vanes and that hose to the actuator gets hard and cracks or fails there is a sensor that controls that vacuum to that actuator people call different things by different names so one persons cold start is another person actuator or sensor the turbo can be repaired in an accredited turbo shop if that is the problem and that would be the only thing that could cost up to and around the price of a new turbo

There is a good one on line , you can download

Try unplugging the MAF sensor, the check engine light will come on but the engine should run almost normally. If this is the case replace the MAF sensor. MAF's seldom set fault codes.

check fuses and relays --have car scanned for trouble code --if you tested the sensors and are good --check your wiring and connections --hubs /wheel bearings --

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals

You have to undo a lot of bolts to get to the headlights. Try going to the dealership and they will assist you.

http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/oo65/xkabincoz2290/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20110606-00055.jpg Try using this image as a translator.

Your symptoms pretty much indicate a transmission failure.

No. Brake light has nothing to do with that. You probably have some more damaged wires somewhere. Rats mice and squirrels can do major damage to wiring harnesses and often chew them in multiple places

Most likely cause is the dreaded head gasket failure problem.

You need a tie rod exterior tool, about $80. This tubular tool fits over the tie rod, after you disconnect it from the upright and rod end. The tool is a worthwhile addition to your tool kit.

moved you out of jeep. did you turn it CCW? counter clockwise? did you ask Arnold Schwarzenegger. to help.? ask your local service shop for help.