20 Most Recent 2003 Suzuki Aerio Questions & Answers

At $1000.00 USD I will not guess on the PCM nor should you..

03 Suzuki Areio won't idle when hot?? If there is no engine codes like my 03 Areio 2.0 I simply cleaned the throttle body and adjusted the throttle cable when the engine was hot back to 800 rpms.. seems to be the fix. I'm suspecting the cable after 240k was a bit stretched and didn't give enough tension to the butterfly valve after it was up to operating temperature..

First of all, if the engine turns over, you DON'T need a starter or an ignition switch. Don't fall into the 'let's try replacing this' method of car repair! It is costly and never works. First replace the cap cap, it is part of the pressurized fuel system and may be the answer to all the issues. $20 from Walmart, or $15 from Napa Auto Parts. Then connect a code reader and find why that Engine Light comes on. Your vehicle has a computer that records everything that is wrong with it. A cheap code reader gives you the basics, a $5,000 scan tool computer tells you everything, historically and in real time as the vehicle is starting of being driven. The other thing to check is that the battery is good. Interstate will test for you for free in the parking lot and only takes 2 minutes including the printout. I think AutoZone and Napa also does it.

2003 suzuki aerio Fuel and Emissions - NAPA Auto Parts

https://www.napacanada.com > ... > Replacement Parts 2003 suzuki aerio Fuel and Emissions. Part Types. Categories. Close [X]. Replacement Parts. Fuel and Emissions. Fuel Caps · Gaskets and Seals · PCV Valves ...

Get the Best Priced Suzuki Aerio Fuel Tank Cap - Parts Geek

https://www.partsgeek.com > mmparts > suzuki > aerio We offer high quality new, OEM, aftermarket suzuki aerio fuel tank cap parts. ... Stant Fuel Tank Cap - for 2003 Suzuki Aerio GAS - 10595 Click to Enlarge.

Suzuki Aerio Gas Cap ' Advance Auto Parts

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com > find > suzuki-aerio... Low prices on Gas Cap for your Suzuki Aerio at Advance Auto Parts. Find aftermarket and OEM parts online or at a local store near you.

OE Replacement for 2002-2003 Suzuki Aerio Fuel Tank Cap ...

https://www.walmart.com > ... > Fuel Tank Caps Arrives by Thu, Feb 3 Buy OE Replacement for 2002-2003 Suzuki Aerio Fuel Tank Cap (GS / S / SX) at Walmart.com. ..

Have you checked all fuses for the cooling fans? Seems to be that the car is warming up to temp and then some, and protecting itself from overheating by shutting down the engine.

GET A NEW BATTERY

there is a switch under the dash.. if you look and press the brake with your hand, you will see it press against a little switch button.. that button is bad, it unlocks the gearshift so you can select the gear you want.. replace that switch, and your problem will be solved

You can fix the problem with the help of service and repair manual which will provide you step by step help to locate and fix the problem easily and you will get the manual from the given link https://toolsnyou.com

Any tire dealer or reputable BBB approved auto care repair center can service the brakes, also any Suzuki dealer is a good choice as they have the best knowledge of the product by far. As far a specific locations that can do brake work and have well trained brake repair technicians, Firestone auto care centers and Big O tires are good choices as well.

You have two temperature lights that come on when you start the car, one red and one blue. After the car is started the red light goes out and the blue one stays on. According to the manual, (and from my personal experience with my '03 SX), the car needs to warm up to a proper operational temperature. This temperature is reached once the blue temperature light turns off, (or within seconds afterwards). If you don't allow your car to warm up you will notice hard or long shifting, rough idle, and poor engine performance. Never drive your car if the light displays a constant red temperature light.
If this solution does not work see a Transmission expert of take it to your local Suzuki Dealer.

After you replaced the computer, you need run the car for at least 75 miles before the check engine light will go out on it's own. You disrupted the system norms be swapping the computer and the systems need to reset. Be patient. If it doesn't go out, have someone shut it out for you and see does it come back after 11 miles. If you don't get that hiss when you pull the gas cap. replace the gas cap. If you still don't get the his when you remove it next time, your system is not sealed and is sucking vacuum somewhere. Possibly the gas fill tube has a pinhole or the tank vent tube. Maybe the connections are not tight. It could be any of these.

check cam senser on top at driver side of engine. check plug to ensure no corr.

Hello Jgilly90, I'm not sure if i would place a jumper across the low pressure switch. Unless the troubleshooting tree in the service manual suggested this test I would be careful experimenting. Here is your HVAC schematic:

Don't buy it from the dealer, just buy a used remote from eBay. Use these instructions to program it.

1. Confirm that all doors are closed and the ignition key is out of the ignition cylinder.
2. Open the driver's door.
3. Within 10 seconds, Insert key into ignition turn to ON position and back to OFF and remove the key.
4. Within 20 seconds, close and open the drivers door 3 times. (Drivers door should be open)
5. Within 10 seconds, insert key into ignition turn to ON position and back to OFF and remove the key.
6. Press and hold both the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons together on the same remote for at least 5 seconds, the doors will lock and unlock (that's a very good sign)
7. Within 5 seconds, press the LOCK button on the same remote and release. You just programmed your remote ??

Myself, certified ASE auto tech, would start by scanning the computer & get the sensor READINGS. Bad readings don't mean the sensor is NG, it can possibly be an electrical problem too. For the problem u are describing it can be a result of a crank or cam sensor. Its very possible. Just make sure u get a warrantee by a repair. PS the crank & cam sensors are common causes for this problem. I warrantee all my repairs. Sorry, that's the best I can do from here. Good Luck

what engine, in what country? Each engine has its own EFI even gas and diesel we can not guess what whats under your hood. why not log into mitchell DIY and read it your self' oops it asks same question. the FPR is DYNAMIC and has 3 tests. not ONE . the service manual covers all that, if you buy one,

1. key on pressure
2. idle
3. and WOT< wide open throttle (same as #1)

and at full vacuum even less. our engine is 2.0L and 2.3l j20 AND J23 MY CRUMMY BOOKS ONLY SHOWS. AT IDLE. 31.3-36.9 psi. but, (physics 101) IT WILL BE more at wot by about 6pis (at sea level) and less at full vacuum. its a 1 bar, FPR. wot = wide open throttle this device does 3 things. regulates and compensates for altitude and compensates for induction plenum pressures(vacuum) at all throttle angles. make sure the vacuum nipple does not leak fuel or its bad.

no engine stated or countryl open glove box,take out that OPR guide read, its there. or go to shop the drain it and fill it to the dip stick full mark , whatever. it takes or measure what came out? (6th grade,tactics?)