20 Most Recent 2003 Suzuki XL-7 Questions & Answers

for the whole car, really?? asking for>? all engine smog hoses for all counties and or states on earth, sorry I pass. EVAP system front and rear? BRAKE booster. vac smog parts are not the same even in USA FED and CALIF are different/ no country told XL-7 USA? no engine told no VIN# told so we see VIN ENGINE CODE

why change ecm was it tested as faulty -also was it flashed to your vehicle --have vehicle scanned for trouble codes ---check throttle

Hello. The knock sensor is a single wire device fastened to the side of the engine. It looks like a 'plug' with a single 'tab' protruding out of it. A single terminal wire slides onto that 'tab'. That single wire is nearby; somewhere on either side of the engine block where the knock sensor is at. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

I would like to know the same.i just removed mine because it would not start half the time,and i just put a new battery,alternator,pig tail,and new terminals,and still had the issue of starting half the time,i removed that square with the metal fuse on the positive battery terminal and no issues with it not starting,mayne i shouldnt have removed it.any insight is appreciated as there is no info on this subject,everybody thinks your referring to the main fuse box or the one under the drivers side

try Youtube-lots of videos on different models. Disconnect negative battery first, then remove wires from starter (battery red cable and the small wire for starter solenoid), then unbolt starter's 2 (sometimes 3) bolts to remove the starter.

Do you have any transmission fault codes in memory? Have it scanned.

I am not familiar with the model but there is lots of information online so try a google search. I think Haynes might produce a repair manual. 2 oil pumps are illustrated - one chain driven from the front of the crank and the other slid over the front of the crank and driven by it. The oil pan must be removed and probably the timing belt and gears, etc. I don't know if there is sufficient clearance to remove the oil pan but if there isn't the motor must be removed. If there is clearance it is an unpleasant and messy job and removing the engine is favourite unless the semi-dismantled engine can be left to drip for a considerable time.

rear of what, axle?hub, do you mean mean the brake drum or the axle flange.

Are your springs heavy duty enough to with stand you should be able to check out the tongue weight of your vehicle vs what you will be pulling hope this helps Merry Christmas

I Use to have a 2004 model of the car in question. Now I have a 1993 Porsche Carrera. But the 4WD light never flashed... if it still works perfectly fine then I think it’s not such a big deal. If the 4WD acts weird or malfunctions. Take it to your local Suzuki Dealership or Auto Mechanics Garage.

Something is broken could be broken line is three or loose line near the engine.

in what country? you left off the dash, XL7 is not a XL-7 but 2003 is best clue. usa $4 see the real book, not fake, official https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/10057-2003-grand-vitaragrand-vitara-xl-7-service-manual.aspx

this is not an AWD car, that happened in 2004 so you are using part time 4wd totally wrong.? part time needs ice under 1 or more tires, like old jeeps did. never put additives in engine oil, that is super super bad idea. change the oil, it has all that in the new oil, wow. the owners manual told you how to use PT 4wd and told you never use oil additives. so did the oil maker tell you the same thing. stop using SNAKE OIL, or lunch the still working good engine. the hot rubber might be,fan belts slipping. (or victims) i bet you have Part time system. in 2004 this new system was added, (full time) AWD , stay out of LOCK if you have this system. it too is PT in LOCK. mode. http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/xfr-case/4wd%20windup/suzuki-grand-vitara-4mode-4wd-selector-switch.jpg next time say whats under the tires. I cant guess. that. and I been where you are before, dead winter.

The module is built into the wiper motor. Replace the motor.

bat neg lug off. gain access to starter, front in jack stands really help. then remove all wires to starter then any heat shields blocking access to it's mounting bolts. then remove the 2 mounting bolts. duck as it falls. '

The problem is probably caused by moist in the fusebox / relaybox inside the cocpit. It's placed on the drivers side below the steering wheel. In my case it was sufficient to dry it by using a heater fan for couple of hours ( over night ). Afterwards I used CRC for electrical circuits, and sprayed everything as goods as possible. It has now been working fine for more than a year, so it might be worth trying.....

If it is after market it can. Cut it out and fix wires as you go.