20 Most Recent 2002 Volvo V70 Questions & Answers

New transmission time.

Hi rodknob, What are side lights ? are they a parking light ? Think you need to wire the side light switch feed wire to a relay and have the relay power on when the car has Accessory Power from the key Switch accessory wire. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SMD-TIMER-SWITCH-TIME-RELAY-0-3-1-TO-40-90-145-SEC-KIT-10A-Delay-Off-12V/270906122933?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44039%26meid%3D684df600e97b4815a4546694bea01ad7%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D271203168131%26itm%3D270906122933&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Using a delay relay means the lights can stay on for up to 660 seconds after you turn off the car accessory key switch. Did a car with a normal relay off accessory wire as I use to forget the headlights and flatten battery. Or you might be able to use https://www.ebay.com/itm/Automatic-Headlight-Sensor-Light-Delay-Control-Module-Light-Modified-Adjustable/262348530976?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44039%26meid%3Db0aaa542d3ae4e169c1d87d3e57ca29c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D182329905247%26itm%3D262348530976&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 but you would need to ask them how to wire it to the headlight switch and if it turns on the headlights in the dark or inclement weather. Like my You might need to use a relay to feed the power to the headlight switch depends on current involved . Holden commodore cruise does this as a standard feature via an auto headlight setting on the headlight switch..

sound like one of the door latch switches is faulty or the hood or trunk lid switches try the hood switch first thats the favourite suspect the security system thinks something is still open

If it is the solenoid (most likely) remove the right rear break light cover and the inner cover behind it.
There is another adjoining cover over the fuel tube. There are two plastic clips holding it to the car. Twist them clockwise and release the plastic fuzzy sound cover. I was not able to take this cover out, but you need to manipulate it so you can get your hand behind it and reach up and towards the fuel cover. There is a wire pair (mine was covered in foam) which attaches to the rear of the solenoid. The solenoid is positioned horizontally. Find where the wires are attached and reach around to the front. There you should find the plunger and pull it back towards the rear of the car. This should release the fuel cover lock. It did for me. Good luck!

The thermostat, and radiator are under the hood, not under the dash, you might be sure you have enough anti-freeze, in the radiator and reservoir. if not refill to the proper levels, if it heats up after that, check for leaks, if none exist, you might need water pump, or have a leaky head gasket.

First change fuel filter and then change air filter. A turbo requires good air flow to spool-up correctly

You need new tailgate struts. Most auto parts stores sell them. Just stick a broom stick under the tailgate and remove the ceiling panel and unsnap the old ones and snap the new ones in. Make sure to install them exactly the way they were before you started.

Try the fuel injection relay they are located under the hood. They blow out every few years on my Volvo. The car starts to quit all of the sudden. It is either red or green colored. It is located in the fuse box under the hood.

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Your problem lies within the rear fuse panel now there are about 15 relays and you need to find the gremlin switch them around keep your key fob and keep trying until u figure out the bad relay I guarantee this is your problem.. regards Chris

The first thing you must do is have the computer control module for the engine scanned for fault codes.

Is the vehicle in park ? Your vehicle like all vehicles have safety systems that won't allow the vehicle key to be turn off and locked if the vehicle is in gear and running . How ever this systems can malfunction . There is a lock out soleniod in the column or the console if floor shifter . The first place to start would be to have it checked for DTC's - diagnostic trouble codes . These codes can cut diagnostic time down a bunch . Or there could be a problem the ignition lock cylinder ! If no codes are present taking the steering wheel off to get out the lock cylinder and replacing it . You may be better of taking it to a repair shop .

Won't start, or won't even crank over?

what fuse did u pull ? have car scanned for the trouble code some auto stores such as auto zone / advanced auto do it for free the code gives u a place to start also u may only have to reset the system clear the codes because of fuse u pulled

The exact same set of codes have just come up on my car, the same car and year. Did you solve it? I am thinking cleaning the throttle body first, any help appreciated....

Felix any noise coming from the front wheel while turning leaves me thinking front constant velocity joint if the car is front wheel drive. With the abs light on I would take down the front driver side wheel and check the brakes for wear along with the front wheel bearing assembly for play or loosness, Check for the sensors to make sure they havent came off and are rubbing your rotors as you make your turn. It can be a number of things. Usually when its the front constant velocity joint it makes a popping noise as if something is binding. As for the front wheel bearing assembly it could make noises usually after the car has been ran down the road and heated up the bearing then it will sing to you. But as you mentioned about the noise only during turning I would lean towards constant velocity joint or sensor hanging and rubbing the rotor, Its only one way to find out. Hope this helps.