Top 20 1995 Isuzu Rodeo Questions & Answers

The best solution you'll get from books at www.reliable-store.com These are books containing info on repair, service, troubleshooting, parts info, assembling dissemble, removal, error/fault codes, wiring diagrams and everything on any vehicles cars, atv, trucks. forklifts, boats, excavators etc

If you're finding it difficult to service/repair your car, get one of those online manuals. You'll not have to wait for others to answer, or rely on mechanics and all. Plus i know a website that has very good manuals online, without expiry i.e. for lifetime. www.reliable-store.com

rims do not split down the middle unless they have been widened by cutting and re-welding to make wider rims This is a common and ******* practice to get the wide fat tire look unfortunately that also means that the tires rub on the body and chassis so the fix for that is a different rear end assembly that is wider track ( possible ford , holden , mitsubisi, nissan At a rough guess , that is what been done to the vehicle you have and that is why standard rims will not fit on the back The real fix here is to get a good standard rear end for the rodeo and replace the one there the advantage here is that you will only need the one spare tire rough I know but will be best in the long run as you have a standard vehicle that is road worthy

there are 2 horns that have different frequencies so that you get a louder harmonious noise when you activate the horn now you have blown the fuse or the relay is no longer working make sure that you have fitted the ground wire correctly

you need to remove the nut allway then screw back on and hit the to or the coupling area, this will release the shaft so you don't get hit by the rod. do this on both ends, when removed measure the length of the rod, if its the same make as the one replacing count the treds and put the new one to the same length, this will keep your tracking in line as much as possible, then tighten the nuts. and fit. push the shaft into the original hole and tighten down with the nut, its always best to do both times when they are replaced, as they would both take the impact and the impact of the road. should only take a novice a couple of hours to do both sides, if steering out i would recommend getting the tracking done as the accident could of move other parts out of alignment.

I would replace the vehicle speed sensor is you want to just guess.

It sounds to me as you have a leaking clutch cylinder? Have you checked under the bonnet to see where the leak has come from? If you find it too difficult above the vehicle, then make sure that you are safe getting under the vehicle to check where the leak is coming from. Your description points to clutch issue if it will not go into gear OR POSSIBLY linkage issue, so make sure that there are no fluid cylinders other than the master cylinder with leaks. It may be you do not have to replace the cylinder, but purchase a kit of seals to do the job. You then detach the faulty cylinder and check it's seals if you feel competent. Check the cylinder is not pitted inside as this would allow fluid to bypass the seal. Once this cylinder is repaired or replaced you will need to top it up with CLUTCH AND BRAKE fluid. UNLESS your model has specific manufacturers instructions as to what to use. Check with your local automotive store. If you can, have the vehicle raised at the front if you are doing the work on stands or ramps. BE SAFE. If you get it done, then it will need fluid put back in and then someone will need to sit inside the vehicle and pump the clutch pedal until they feel resistance has increased. DO NOT over fill. Keep topping up as the level drops. I leave my own vehicle to stand to allow any air bubbles to rise to the top of the cylinder. Hope this helps.

no engine stated (size or cylinder counts)nor if odometer works or not. one engine has cable head other not.so.... if odometer is dead on one engine, its VSS deadif od0meter is dead on other , the cable is bad.there.the odometer is that counter deal on the cluster bottom tells how many miles car has moved.it rolls, 1/10s as you drive, it the counter is deadthat means the odometer is dead. too.

posted 2nd timestill no transmission stated, auto or stick.no 2wd or 4wd, SORRY THEY ARE NOT THE SAME !!!still no symptoms, wow. is the speedo needle working y/n or making noise?is the odometer working right, y/nis the transmission shifting ok, y/ndid the TCM scans show errors , y/n. or PCM.or is the problem something I cant guess, nah , just lazy to type them all.is this hard,?. seems so..here is your other post , FIX wordshttp://www.fixya.com/answer/answerpageslideview.aspx?thid=26394436&ctg=231&brd=6600&fml=897there i merged themand still zero symptomstell me how any help can helpnot being on the same page.not one word on Symptoms, is this too hard?cars can have 1 to 7 speed sensors.some have 1 in the speedo head, 2 or 3 on the engine, 4 for ABS (true speed)one in trans, 2 or 3 or more on newer carsand one on the end of the transfer cas.not only that 1995 is the big evolution year.yes, im a sensor expert. (down to faraday laws)in 1995 this car, they had a cable head on one engine, the the other engine the PCM drives the head.if you know cars, and this evolution you'd knowthat in the future, more sensors.some A/t boxes have 3 sensors now, front mid and rearon 4wd, the tail shaft is on the transfer caseand ONLY it knows speed, there.see?my jeep, (really) 6speed stick has NONE.wow none. yes.they steal speed data now from ABS, braincosting zero dollars, "genious" ideas.next timepost engine size and cylinder counts.then post A/T or m/t transthen post 2wd or 4wdor if all that is too hard,???post symptoms and we take you to TRUE CAUSE.easy peasy japaneezeey.?on cable heads, dead odom/speedo is bad cable.or it's feed gear bad, or a bad head. ask how to test .if odom is ok then the speedo meter it self is bad.inside, cluster, i mix 3 bad clusters many time to get one perfect, on 95 cars... many.on non cable heads, the speedo head fuses are blown, or that wire from head to speedo is broken.or the VSS sensor to PCM is dead.on some cars there are 2 , VSS , 1 and a backup.the transfer case if fitted, is VSS for sure.that is because the transfercase has 2 speeds.on most 4wd cars.

Cam sensor is basically a coil, so use a ohm meter to test for continuity, but be aware, it can test good when cold and still fail as it heats up and a cracked wire expands. If the car starts and runs, but then dies and won't start again until it cools, this can be the cam sensor, crank sensor (if it has one), coil or ignition module. Sometimes replacing each part one at a time until you fix the problem is the only real cure. Therefore, if you can find a junk car to use parts from to test this could save money. Once you find which part is bad, buy a new one for lasting cure.

Here's a link to your relay. Location of turn signal relay IsuzuPup com

where is this switch. ac has lots of inputs, the AMP logic models that runs it does. there is the Freon HIGH /LOW switch. then there is the burried, deep evap icing sensor, ever heard of photos is that hard? there is a AC on switch in the dash heat ac panel there is the AC pairs of relays there is the AC engine overheat sensor, (its a switch but is thermal) i can anwser dead accurate here, but for the life of me , why not just say where it is, exactly. and photos are amazing things, some say 1000words i one photo. and is true but never here. my guess, you mean the evap thermo sensor that senses icing inthe evap core, is the core pulled? some have electric switch others use a capulary tube that runs the expansion valve.

Check for leakage from the master cylinder it hooks to the clutch pedal .If oil is getting out then air is getting in as a matter of fact check the fluid level and the rest of the system for leaks .The clutch is most likely the problem and I mean AIR in it Unless you have having problems shifting before .Problems like don't happen over night with a transmission its a progression over time and their are signs like hard to shift gears grinding that sort of thing . Check the clutch system first.

Contact a local salvage yard they have a cross reference catalog. But if you ask me the answer is no.

what about the cam position sensor has the timing belt being replaced in the last 60.000 miles( recommended interval) as the teeth could be missing

which engine,we cant help much lacking that.get it serviced?while it still moves?what made you think its too much gas?evidence.?it's old car.get compression tested while full tuneup is done.do that first.;get it scanned, or at least the isuzu flash codesis cel lamp glowing key on,then then does not turn off running(check engine lamp)check fuel pressure?check injector balances tests, and leak down tests>the flash codes will show any sensors that fell offor are 100% dead.insert the diagnostic jumper wirehttp://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/

Best thing to do is get a vacuum pump and suck each brake line individually keeping an eye on the level in the master cylinder. See if that gets any better. You can borrow one from advanced auto.

Park interlock switch bad

well you posted a question about an engine but failed to say what engine is there. (1/2 post here do that) and all fail, like that. imagine the cars body missing." now what is there. a drive train. engines , trans and 2wd/4wd are all options. 1: drain coolant 2: remove its Belts. and all thing bolted to it. 3: remove pump., (fasteners) 4: put back new pump. sealant gaskets etc. 5: refill with 50% AF 6: burp the system of air, or read 100s doing same or login to alldata.com and read. https://www.google.com/webhp?gws_rd=ssl#q=water+pump+site:http:%2F%2Fforum.planetisuzoo.com%2F this is the magic site search that sucks forums dry. see that? POWER ! of Google BOTS.

Yes I would say alternator is faulty