20 Most Recent 2006 Isuzu i-280 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

The check engine light is on because the computer has detected a problem. If your car is a model year 1996 or newer then it is OBD II and you will need an OBD II scanner to retrieve the code(s). Most scanners have the ability to "reset" the light also. You can disconnect the battery for 15 minutes and the light will go off, but if the same problem exsists, the light will come back on.

If the leak is above the gas tank, then the piping on the fuel pump is probably corroded. You will need to replace the entire pump assembly.

Check the entire fuel line for corrosion or breaks in the rubber hoses. Is the fuel pumping out on the ground when you are trying to start it?

PROMLEM MAY BE BECAUSE LOW IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT. INCREASE THE LOW SPEED/ IDLE SPEED BY INCREASING THE FUEL INTAKE . IN CARBURATOR VEH. ADJUST THE IDLE SCREW CLOCKWISE. IF IT IS FUEL INJECTOR INCREASE THE FUEL AT PUMP ITSELF.

when are you getting the vibration on prop shaft?the gearbox is so hard to explaine ?this car must have had more problems than you tell me ,trouble with third/first/reverse.im strugging on fifth,fifth is classed as a overdrive so im going to isolate this as a fifth gear problem and i would suspect a[ bearing ]mybe the bearing at the end of the out shaft.please rate this answer.adrian,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

yes i find it hard to get started in the morning too so i stay in bed !

35 ;PSI

this kin of problem you have to fix along with the ignition timing bout the injector pump and the timing has to be in the same position.if one of them is off the time is not kena worke.

Your light switch controls those items, it may be defective.

One has to check the fuse for Instruments. When it failed you check any cable for wear marks and the chance it shorted out against some ground. Next the main plugs for power to be in good condition and not being corroded. Sometimes the cables break where they are clamped on a cable lug and one can then easily pull them out of a connector. It can be a bad connection to ground, where ground cables connect to a larger wire. Ignition switches can fail and have connections for many functions with plugs down below. It should be any of these causes.

Have you had it plugged into an OBD scanner to check it isn't a sensor causing the issue? Sometimes something else can trigger a "No Start" issue like a bad sensor or a faulty immobiliser. The two most likely reasons for the starter to do that is - 1. a weak or flat battery or - 2. A bad starter motor. Check the battery is fully charged, (somewhere around 12.6 to 13.2 volts). If the battery is good it is more likely to be the starter motor. On a 2001 model it mght be the original factory starter. They do wear out and fail especially on high mileage or high compression engines like diesels. That 'Click' noise is probably the Solenoid switch on the starter working but the motor isn't turning like it should.

How did you 'turn them off'? There are no switches. You can't drive without those two sensors. You need and auto electrician with a professional grade scan tool computer to diagnose what device (probably ECM) is giving that signal to the engine tachometer. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

It is another name for the instrument cluster. https://www.google.com/search?q=IE+Isuzu+6w+meter+board ..

Your ISUZU D-MAX 4JK1 engine's low RPM may be a sign of a number of possible problems. The following typical causes and troubleshooting techniques can assist in identifying and resolving the issue: Unclean or Clogged Air Filter: A dirty or clogged air filter might limit the engine's ability to breathe, which will lower power and revolutions per minute. If the air filter appears to be dusty or blocked, inspect it and replace it. Fuel System Problems: Issues with the fuel system, such as a defective fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or damaged fuel injectors, can lead to low RPM. Inspect the gasoline filter for obstructions and swap it out if required. It could be necessary to clean or replace the fuel injectors if they are unclean or not working properly. Furthermore, check the gasoline check the pump to make sure the engine is receiving a sufficient amount of fuel. Engine Vacuum Leaks: When the engine's air-fuel combination is disturbed, low RPM and subpar performance result. Check for leaks or damage on the vacuum hoses and connectors, and repair any broken parts as necessary. faulty Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF): The engine control unit (ECU) receives information from the MAF sensor, which monitors the amount of air entering the engine and modifies the air-fuel mixture accordingly. Inaccurate air-fuel ratios brought on by a malfunctioning MAF sensor can lead to low RPM and other performance problems. Use a multimeter or scan tool to test the MAF sensor, and replace it if necessary. Problem with the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS): TPS keeps an eye on the location of the throttle pedal and transmits this data to the ECU for engine RPM control. Low RPM and other irregular engine performance can be caused by a malfunctioning TPS. If the TPS isn't working properly, test it with a multimeter or scan tool and replace it. Exhaust System Restrictions: Low RPM and decreased engine performance can result from an exhaust system or catalytic converter that is clogged. Check the exhaust system for any obstructions or limitations, and replace any broken parts as necessary. Engine Timing Problems: Low RPM can be caused by improper ignition timing or timing belt/chain issues, which can impair engine performance. Verify the timing of the ignition and look for any wear or damage on the timing belt or chain. If necessary, swap either the timing belt or chain and modify the ignition timing. In case you are incapable of identifying or fixing the low RPM problem with your ISUZU D-MAX 4JK1 engine, it is advised that you get assistance from a certified mechanic or dealership for additional diagnosis and repairs. They can locate the root cause and take appropriate action by using specialist diagnostic tools and knowledge.

Do you have any warning lights on the dashboard? Have you had it plugged into an OBD2 diagnostic or a scan tool? This will help work out if it is a faulty sensor causing the issue. Is it doing anything else? Rough running, smokey exhaust, hard starting, something else?

1. Flywheel: The torque specification for the flywheel bolts is typically around 80-85 lb-ft (108-115 Nm). It's crucial to tighten the bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern to ensure proper seating of the flywheel.
2. Pressure Plate: The torque specification for the pressure plate bolts is usually in the range of 14-20 lb-ft (19-27 Nm). As with the flywheel bolts, it's essential to tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly and in a crisscross pattern to avoid warping or uneven pressure distribution.

It's important to consult the specific repair manual for your vehicle to ensure accurate torque specifications for your particular model and year, as torque values can vary between different engine configurations and manufacturers' recommendations. If you don't have access to the manual, you may want to consider contacting a reputable mechanic or the manufacturer for assistance.

What exactly are you having a problem with. The HT cables are normally a push on fit. The long connector goes on the spark plug and the other end goes to the coil pack. The important fact is to get the cables in the correct order. This is to make sure the spark plugs fires when it is supposed to.