Name is rich i have
it always restarts instantly or only when cold or????????????
THAT IS CALLED STALLING, 4.L I-6
BUT need to know some facts first, here they are.
1: you failed to use a fast right foot, stalling to save it.
answer: easy, hard, impossible , which was it??>>??
costs you nothing to do that or report it.!!!
2: did any lamps dim just at the stall????? called electric DC power failure. radio, head lamps, dim or anything else beside the Engine stall,
3: the 4.0L inline 6 (owned 3 cars with it) my 2nd car only stalled in tight left turns, the ground lug(new car) on right rear of head, was never crimped right in the factory and failed, (kills all EFI dead as a door nail too!) I know it was engine flex related by doing tests and BINGO but that is just antidote evidence and useless in most cases. but is illustrative of just what can go wrong (LOTS),
I also knew the right foot actions failed, and was ASD drop.
4: no mention at all if the CEL lamp stuck on (running)
CEL comes on key on to prove lamp is good. this is not an error.
CEL also comes on at all stalls see line above, for why.
5: your shot gunned the EFI, why do that?
why not use all that wasted hard cash on a real scan tool
for way less I might add.. yes really and then can fix this car and may the next 2 owned cars, buy a tool 2008 or newer !!!
if you had such a tool and scanned the PCM at the stall.
every 10 miles( or just one time)
then you'd have the reason. why, (or not)
1: yes you get DTCs, there are 8 possible just for ASD drop alone. including the SKIM lamp turned on and you failed to see that IMMOBILIZER lamp glow at STALL. i think yours has no VTSS/SKIM/SKIS, immo... so ill skip this....
2: no, no errors, no pendings either (keep the key on and scan do not turn off the key, and see if pendings show errors.
many a DTC take 1 , 2, or 3 hot trips to set. so PENDINGS are very very important, to look at. Push the button pendings now.
if no errors at all, then it must be fuel pressure loss.
or a bad engine, a bad engine can in fact CHUG
what if a valve in the head stuck open.>? now is 5 cylinder engine.
recap:
yes fuel pumps can go dead, intermittently, (bad segments on the pump motor commutator. does this) hitting side of tank can wake it up on no starts
bad engine, do chug.
bad spark plugs. ok new. gapped right?
bad spark plug wires? get 6 new NGK mag wires now.
if the spark wires are 17 years old , get them the H3LL out of there now.
the cheap carbon wires can fail at engine flex. or hot, or damp
the distributor cap, and rotor are next. all part of a 10 year tuneup
in my book.
if live scans show ok, the pump pressure may be dropping
the SM covers this , says all things the ECU are blind to.
blind things in short.
1: engine can fail and the dumbb ECU does not know why,
sure it might show P300 errors, but is not for sure it will.
2: pump pressure wrong.
3: loss of DC power, the ECU needs 10-15v to run
if the power is now 0, how can the ECU brain think,
answer IT Cant nor can it monitor or report errors with ZERO POWER>
4: the ECU (its a pain yes) does not report many errors
until many trips. but now cars starts and so it never reports that last stall. read the SM and read the rules on DTC trips, and understand this better.
in my PC here it can show me errors I had 1 year ago.
in a log file
cars have no such log file. , only a TRIP fail. and pendings and freeze frame.
to get the same effect as my nice DT PC , on a car
we can use a scan tool , ours logs. and can drive for a week
and log all ECU/PCM errors and all live sensor data for a week.
so in effect I can do just that. see all errors for a week or a day.
mine has a RECORD button,
whole thing set me back a whopping, $200 (Palmer software too)
that's
the key to finding the issues are , for 100 + years.
1: engine bad.
2: spark bad. do the full tune up this time.
3: bad EFI , fueling. for many reasons
there are tests for each. ask.
3/25/2017 1:42:38 PM •
1998 Jeep...
•
Answered
on Mar 25, 2017
now lets do this backwardslets pretend to buy the part, hark , you can online.and see all the makers of parts aftermarket in 1 clickno kidding, a fact.see the 8 makers here,(can be more)all are 100% integrated, hubs, (not saying there are not other makers, or kits, the world is a huge place and I cant tell you all answers world wide for sources)you could off them, take them both to a shop, and ask for them to rebuild them at $100 /hr labor, but, i bet they just laugh at you.I'm not. but why not just remove it , check it and if bad replace it.take it to any auto-store in town, NAPA is best. and set it on the counter, and say, got this, answer yes.how to repack unpackable bearings,.DIY.shorter answer, R&R it.get a shop to fix it.buy the part first, and see what you got first.look at it and ponder packing it.
