20 Most Recent 2004 Chrysler Voyager - Page 6 Questions & Answers

http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php?t=7292

1. A/T Fluid level empty or low
2. Oil pump of A/T Faulty
3. Selector lever disconnected
4. Torq converter faulty

There may be an air lock in the system, I had the same car with the same fault and it was fine after being bled through.

Hope this helps

Look under vehicle along frame rail -- follow fuel line from tank it might even be a black case in the engine bay

catherine223
1- needs revving to start the car in the morning?
ans- when you start the car, press full the exilator. don't remove the leg from exilator and start the car.

2- battery goes flat a lot?
ans- change the battery in good quality and change from the company of car.

3 - power cuts out when driving which is really dangerous?
ans- check the car from car-electricion, you may found satisfy result.

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([email protected])

Open tailgate. Remove the 2 taillight housing screws, using a trim tool or screwdriver. Turn the taillight housing towards the outside of the van to disengage the retaining hook(tab). To remove the bulb squeeze the tabs on the bulb then pull straight out. When doing this check the rubber grommet the tab goes in replace if cracked or worn. this causes leaks if bad

tick tick tick when cold
run like hell
have a mechanic do a code search for extra insurance

What kind of damage was done to the van?Have you tried to boost it?Was the damage in the front or the rear?Does the starter just click or does it do nothing/Anything you can give me will help to answer the problem.

Please don"t forget to rate:

Removal & Installation
CAUTION The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system must be disarmed before removing the blower motor assembly. Failure to do so may cause accidental deployment of the air bag, resulting in unnecessary SIR system repairs and/or personal injury.

1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable, then wait 2 minutes before proceeding with the removal. This will effectively disable the air bag system preventing possible personal injury.
   
2. Remove the glove box from the instrument panel.
   

The blower motor is located behind the glovebox, behind the blower motor cover

1. Remove the A/C-heater blower motor cover.
   
2. Disconnect the blower motor wiring connector.
   
3. Remove the blower motor wiring grommet and feed the wiring through the blower motor housing.
   
4. Remove the blower motor mounting screws.
   

Once the cover is removed, unplug the electrical connector and push it through the opening in the housing


The blower motor is secured to the housing with three small screws

1. Allow the blower motor assembly to drop downward to clear the instrument panel and remove from vehicle.
   

To install:

1. Place the blower motor assembly into position on the A/C-heater unit and tighten the mounting screws.
   
2. Route the blower motor wiring through the blower motor housing and seat the wiring grommet in the hole of the blower motor housing.
   
3. Reconnect the blower motor electrical connector.
   
4. Install the A/C-heater blower motor cover.
   
5. Install the glove box into the instrument panel.
   
6. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Check blower motor operation.
   

Check power distribution center under the hood, for start relay, this may be where your hearing your click sound. Look at underside of cover for ID of start relay. There should be one or more relays of the same number and configuration in there, which you can try switching with, just to confirm if it's faulty, and needs to be replaced. Let me know how you make out. Be sure that your battery connections are all tight, and clean, and in good shape as well.

if it is an automatic you might have bent the shifter linkage

This is transmission fluid. If it leaks between the motor and the transmission, the seal for the torque converter is probably leaking. If you have transmission cooler lines, check to see if there is a loose connection. The oil can run down the outside of the line and drip at the lowest point.

Not sure of the brake, after removing all bolts and or retaining clips you can slowly pry the old pads apart using tire iron or large screw driver. this will compress the brake cylinder and allow for easy replacement of new pads. With this method you should not have to bleed the brakes after replacing pads.

clean and lubricate track or hardware, check for obstructions

some quick testing would help. test for voltage at the resistor. if there is voltage at the resistor, check for voltage at the fan. if you have power at the fan, remove the fan and hook it up to 12 volts to see if it spins. watch your fingers in case it does spin as it usually spins very fast.
i've seen brand new parts right out of the box that were defective so you need to rule out the resistor and the fan first. if no power is present and the fan works, test the power going to the switch that controls the fan speed.
incidentally if you are visually checking the fuse, pull it out and use a meter to check if there is indeed continuity.

robert