Top 20 1999 Jeep Wrangler - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Most parts stores have a help section or dorman hard to find parts section. Check them out actually orielly auto parts may not have them in stock at there stores but they can help you find them by outsourcing them from somewhere. They are suppost to exhaust all of there resources before they tell you no they don't have it. That's there thing they swear by. I work there if they tell you no before they try to find them they are not doing there job correctly.

1: inspect all brake linings first. no pulling left or right braking? the car has 100% full manual brakes. if the brake booster fails. (its only and assist !!! for 50lb small folks) so does it? it takes more pedal pressure but has 100% full braking. this is no accident its by design. make sure none of the brake shoes/pads are soaked in DoT3/4 fluid or grease or gear oil. and no brake fluid leaks end to end, this is really #1 on all cars. look, then look again. even behind and in front of the master cylinder. look at tires (inside for fluid leaks>) 2: do the booster test. did the vacuum hose to it fall off? or got pinched, or ? google brake booster test if ABS system. get it all checked, if ABS get the ABS scanned. if you cant stop correctly,,,,???? , dont drive. get it fixed.

rough idle is from faulty injectors or maf/vaf sensors or vacuum leaks run the fault codes to determine the fault area

the cluster is the speedometer, tack, gauges, ect.....

No.

If it was fuel related it would have sputtered as it ran out of gas. I think it is lack of spark caused by a failing crankshaft or camshaft position sensor.

Look at the common grounds for that circuit, possibly corroded or loose.

One quart is two pints so 6.8 pints is 3.4 quarts.

When replacing a key or cylinder the key will need to be programed so it is recognized by the anti theft system. A phone call to the local dealer could tell you if it is something you can do yourself or if they have to do it.

4.0 1999, same as my Cherokee had. (all 3 , i had....) first off post the symptoms, ive no idea that.? my wild guess. is: 1: cranks ok about 250RPM? 2: will not start.? 3: i find spark is dead on all 6 cylinders (All six? really?) do tell. sure it floods, (sometimes, or ecu sees spark dead, and cuts fuel) 4: I connect scan tool, ($9 tool, or rent borrow) i then do these tests A: i key on , and crank,for 5seconds min, and 15sec max 5 is perfect B: i look at RPM in scan screen. its good it shows 255rpm' C: i then look to see if live or pending DTC errors show up D: i see CMP or CKP errors, BINGO ! that is how to do this. this is first for all no spark on all cars made 1988 to now. (only change is tool used) the ECU is very accurate, i reporting bad CKP and CMP sensors LET IT.

Hey, not a whole lot of info so I would say its your brake booster.

isc filthy and sticking open or TPS bad. the 2 top fails for out of control idle on 4 liter. or vacuum leaks

You may want to check the two water houses that feed the heater core. they both have to be hot. (they are usually located next to the thermostat housing.) If they are cold first check the coolant level. Fill up if needed, then you may have to check of there is an obstruction by the housing or the heater core is clogged up. I would first disconnect the hoses and see inside the thermostat housing with a lamp. Also blow some Air inside the heater core to see if flushing is needed. Well if those hoses are both hot then that must be a problem inside the cabin with the vents selection. Either an electric switch or cable. But there are already a few things to check first.

that means the dampers are failing. cause by. 1: stuck damper. or stuck damper motor, or actuator. 2: bad controls. to the damper actuators. the FSM covers this, read the FSM. see chapter HVAC. it shows all steps to do. TJ 1999 here http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service page 35 on. this car has vacuum controls and blend door motor. chapter heatingandaircondiditioning.

the heater has dampers, and the mode section is sticking the tests are in the FSM. under HVAC see YJ here http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service there are 3 systems used, cable, vacuum, and motors. in cable and vacuum , you only need to look to see if the actual damper lever works. if yours is motor, its way more difficult. look in the FSM for that test.

move to Key West? get a tune up? ever do a real 60,000 mile interval tune up this decade? not one part listed lasts the life of car, nor engines. that is what a tune up does. prevents stalling, , tops the list. can you save the stall with a fast right foot."action" posted 100 times now and not one responded.. its a test.

washer pump dead. never checked for 12v at pump turned on? (2 man)??????? if 12v there, the fuses are and all is working, easy 5min test. i can see you didnt test the pump, for power. pump tests (try with no hydraulic load first) you removed the pump clean it , connect only the wires, turn it on , does it spin? buzzzzzzzzz, (simple , no ?) it buzzes. put it back and no hose connected. does it pump water>? at its output port (open to the world) no hydraulic load)?/? yes, then it's good. easy huh? and new pump now, so is.... and was.... conclusion here is the head, or load, is packed up. not free flowing. # 1 cause, of all bad washers. is this... for mixing wrong cleaners or other bad things in the tank. solution: then clean the hoses and nozzles, and some have an inline check valve, that clogs. packed or pinched lines packed check valves. packed nozzels

Blower relay stuck on ?

get your codes first. as three things in your transmission can go wrong.the pressure sensor.the governor pressure sensor is failing.and your filter in the box very dirty and needing changed .so get the codes first cheaper.

i have seen the power distribution box connectors for the fuel pump relay and fuse on the underside of box get hot and short out. need to remove box and check. If no signs of melted connector. you will need to locate the short. It will be a short to ground. on the power side. also you will need to check to see how many amps your fuel pump is pulling when pump is running.