Top 20 1995 Mercury Mystique - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Code 21 is for coolant temp sensor out of range. Usually caused by a faulty sensor or connector at the sensor. The sensor is telling the computer the coolant temp is 300 degrees or minus 50 degrees.

were is the other temp senors at on 97 mercury mystique

some times when you get a orange spark could also be the wires make shur your coil pack is good and the wires arent cracked or touching each other check your ground on the coil also

Are you sure that the light that is on is for the Reservoir and not for the radiator itself? Your light might be indicating that the radiator is out of water or overheating. Or is it just simply the light for your windshield washer fluid and you might be looking at the wrong reservoir under the hood. You might try unplugging the sensor to see if a change of state effects the dash light. then plug it back in and check it. Good Luck!!

You should not have to force it into gear. If your clutch is releasing you should be able to slide it into gear. Here are a couple of possibilities. Your clutch is either hydraulic or cable actuated. Your master or slave cylinder is not extending fully to release the pressure plate from the clutch disk. If you have a cable actuated clutch your cable may have stretched so much that it no longer releases quite enough. I really doubt you need a new clutch if it grabs and holds well after it is in gear. Look into whatever system your vehicle uses to release the clutch be it cable or hydraulic. Wish I could help more , but I can't see it to diagnose it.

The parts houses have started selling"quick Struts"They come with the spring installed,making the change a snap,otherwise you have to compress the coil spring and change the strut,they cost a bit more but you would save in the long run,not having to pay someone the labor costs.

i think this is a simple case of the cold start temperature sensor not working so you have no choke to speed the idle up when engine is cold ,where it is located i have no idea and never seen this vehicle as iam a europeon mechanic .

i ran into the similar problem it turned out to be the water pump the impeller behind the water pump had come lose and was not forcing the water to rotate the system.

Its possible. In this time span Ford used two different motors, the overhead valve (OHV) Vulcan V6, and the Duratec 24V V6, which will bear the 24v DOHC badge on the front fender.

my main suspect here in a case like this is the reed valve ,its sits behind the carb and all 2 stroke engines have one ,if you remove this and its clean and sealing up ok then check the stator under the flywheel ,In the end i gave up with the 2 stroke engine and bought a 4 stroke engine and the amount of fuel i have saved ?? Under the flywheel on the top of the engine is a advance /****** mechanism and this could be sticking or siezed up as well

This can be a big problem if it is a Non Interferrance Motor, meaning that when your timing belt broke you engine basically free wheeled during slow down. This can bend the intake and exhaust valves, extended cranking on motor trying to get it to start after the belt breaks can also cause this. You can get a Chiltons manual to have a guide in replacing the timing belt, i can say i know the motor in your car is a dual over head cam engine. These can be a little more difficult to do if you have never replaced a timing belt. May be best to take it to a professional that can test the head and make sure that no valves are bent before you pay for the belt and timing tensioner.

you should not have to pull the engine to do this, you need to take apart the front (timing cover) so that you can access the lower portion where the crank shaft is so you can line up the marks for a new belt installation-the belt has a tensioner so it getting really loose means you should check it out if you decide to do the belt.

The problem you describe could be result of a dirty of defective Idle Air Control (IAC) sensor/motor. This sensor is located on your vehicles, throttle body. The purpose of this sensor is to control the car's idle under various operating conditions including ambient temperature. In order for it to function correctly, the internal components must be clean (meaning, little or no carbon build up) and it must be undamaged. Sometimes the IAC can be cleaned; however, if this cleaning procedure is not properly done, the IAC can become damaged. This sensor is also sometimes called the "Cold Start" sensor and is located on your Throttle Body (easy to ckean and replace). A new IAC will cost $50-$100. My guess is your IAC needs to be cleaned or replaced. Good Luck!

The FixYa Team.

I believe the best solution is to clean the battery posts and replace the the battery's negative and positive cables. Then spray WD40 over the posts, cables, and every area where the red hot wires attach to the starter, and any place else you can see. I hope this will help you.

If there is no spark, check your Camshaft Position Sensor, Crankshaft Position Sensor, Ignition Control module, and the Timing Belt or Chain. If you don't have a Haynes Manual for the proper test procedures and values, you will need to have the vehicle serviced by a Dealer or local Shop. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Bad drive axle

BATTERY LIGHT ON MOST LIKELY THE ALTERNATOR DONE.CHECK DRIVE BELT FOR TIGHTNESS CHECK BATTERY CABLES FOR CLEANESS AND TIGHTNESS.CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE AND CHECK ALTERNATOR BATTERY PLUS FEED WIRE.MAKE SURE GETTING GOOD 12 VOLTS THERE CHECK FOR LOOSE OR DAMAGED VOLTAGE REGULATOR WIRES.

Check the fuel shutoff or Inertia Switch. You will have to check your owners manual to find out exactly where it is. Usually, it's behind the passenger front kick panel. It will be push button switch. If the button is sticking out, push it in to reset. If it did need resetting, that means the fuel pump was shut down. Hope this helps.

You have a bad dimmer switch

The majority of the time when flasher blinks faster than the other side is a bad bulb.