Top 20 1995 Mercury Mystique - Page 6 Questions & Answers

5 speed manual? Common problem (that and the shift from 2-3).

When you go to wide open throttle, the only thing that happens is your a/c cut out is activated by the throttle position sensor. I owuld check there, but it is very rare that the TPS would cause a fuse to blow.
You may have an engine wire harness that has the wiing insulation decomposing causing wires to short against each other. Peel open the plastic convolute and look for cracks in the insulation. Here is info on a Ford program to repair if less than 100,000 miles on your car.

October, 1999
To:
All Ford and Lincoln-Mercury Dealers
Subject:
Owner Notification Program 99M03 - Certain 1995-1997 Contour and Mystique vehicles - Under Hood Wire Harness - Additional Coverage.
PROGRAM TERMS:
This program provides extended coverage on certain under hood wire harnesses through 10 years or 100,000 miles which ever occurs first, from the original warranty start date. AFFECTED VEHICLES
Certain 1995 - 1997 Contour and Mystique vehicles built from Job #1 1995 through Model Year End 1997. REASON FOR RECALL
Under ambient factors of high temperature and high humidity, certain 1995 - 1997 Contour and Mystique vehicles may be susceptible to the wiring insulation becoming brittle and cracking on certain engine compartment wiring harnesses. These harnesses deliver electrical power to the engine and its cooling and control systems, the climate control, and other power distribution systems. If wire harness insulation cracking is found during the additional warranty period, the under hood wire harnesses are to be replaced at no charge to the customer. SERVICE ACTION
Additional Warranty Coverage
Effective immediately, Ford is providing additional coverage for the replacement of the under hood wire harnesses on these vehicles for a period of 10 years or 100,000 miles, which ever occurs first, from the original warranty start date. This coverage exceeds the provisions of the original component warranty coverage on the affected vehicles and is automatically transferred to subsequent owners at no charge. This additional coverage does not include normal service diagnostic or repair charges unrelated to wire harness brittleness and cracking. After this additional coverage has expired, wire harness replacements will be at the expense of the vehicle owner.

not a frozen linkage....the cable could be stretched but you should be able to putit in a different gear and get reverse if that is the case..it my have messed up the transmission as well. take it to a shop and find out what they have to say

that is the radiator light turn off vehicle open cap on radiator open the overflow bottle on the coolant reservoir put water/ coolant 50/50 pour som in the coolant over flow and in the radiator turn the car on let the radiator burp if you see a leak its the radiator needs replaceing if there is not a leak put more water/coolant in the radiator until its full/ put cap back on thats it/ Please rate my response Thank you very much

first it goes to a exhaust header pipe, then to a catalytic converter,

locate the blower motor under the dash behind the glove box and hit it with a hammer ,usually works every time

Front seating area, driver side, driver side of steering column, behind lower dash panel, mounted in relay block

You will have to remove the panel from under the dash on the passenger side, I believe it has 4 push pins holding it up. Then you will be able to get to the resistor or the motor.

replace fuel pump

if it like a 98 there are 2 slots on the far end of the cams.remove spark plug #1 closest to the timing belt and set to tdc....then align the two slots so you can get a straight edge into both at the same time....i use a piece of keystock.....place the belt on and thats it....really qiute simple

you almost never need to reset timing. To do it, you remove a timing "jumper" block which disconnects the computer from the distributor. Then, you can check "base timing" with a timing light. It should be 10 degrees. Then, during computer self test, it should jump to 27 to 33 degrees. You need a "Star Tester" to do this part.

Good for cleaning the throttle (Known as upper induction cleaning). A couple references I read specifically said not to use Brake Cleaner on the throttle. See below. You could have killed either the Mass Air Flow sensor or Throttle Position Sensor or both. Fix It Right Induction and Throttle Body Cleaning Have a shop run diagnostics on the Engine Computer.

Car thinks it's still in gear. The park shift interlock is activated. This is a safety feature that won't allow key to come out unless vehicle is in park. Try this see if vehicle will start, if it starts run gear selector through all gears then turn off try to remove key. Let me know how this works

Changing a switch is not an expensive nor extensive repair procedure. Even on your Merc, if I remember correctly, on the bottom back side from you is a small hole in the plastic cover that you can stick a bent straight paper clip into, with the switch in the proper position, maybe accessorie, and the paper clip will push a release button so you can pull the ignition switch right out. Don't let them get over on you friend. And putting in the new switch assembly is easier yet. just hold the assembly in the accessorie position and push it in. then turn it off and pull the key. You may have to call a locksmith to have a coded key made for it so it will start the car. I've gone to a scrap yard and pulled switches out in said manner. Takes a few seconds and out.

Hold the column switch see if they work while holding, if it works is your switch inside the steering column, is a common thing, , relay and fuses will be your next check and last your light bulb.

Is your Shifter all the way in Park? Try putting the Shifter in neutral to shut off the engine. If that works your key still won't come out but the car will not be running. If that worked then more than likely something is stopping your Shifter from going into park all the way. Try working the Shifter back and forth with you thumb on the button a couple of times to see if you can get it into park. Just remember the car can roll if it's not in park so use your parking brake if it works or get someone to block off the wheels (forward and back) while you hold the brake pedal.

Here are just a few causes--- Dirty air filter, faulty oxygen sensor ( check engine light will be on)--- Defective map sensor ( MAP ) manifold absolute pressure sensor. Defective tps ( throttle position sensor ) Defective ect ( engine coolant temperature sensor. This is just a few causes. If the check engine light is on, You can go to any auto parts store and they will read the code for free. God-Bless!

• 1 Open the hood and disconnect the negative cable terminal from the battery using a wrench. This is the cable connected to the post with the negative sign next to it.
• 2 Place a large drain pan under the radiator, open the radiator drain valve and loosen the radiator cap. Allow all the coolant to drain from the radiator and then close the radiator valve. Remove the drain pan from under the vehicle and cover it if you plan to reuse it later.
• 3 Unfasten the two bolts from the top engine cover, which shields the water pump pulley. Use a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket. When removing the cover detach the crankcase ventilation tube from the edge of the cover by hand.
• 4 Raise the front of your car with a floor jack, support it with two jack stands and chock the rear wheels with a couple of wooden blocks.
• 5 Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise using a breaker bar with a 3/8-inch driver. Insert the breaker bar driver in the square hole of the belt tensioner. Hold the belt tensioner in the release position and lift the drive belt from the pulleys. Slowly release the belt tensioner to its original position.
• 6 Loosen the clamps holding the two hoses to the water pump using a Phillips-head screwdriver and detach the hoses from the water pump.
• 7 Unfasten the three bolts that hold the water pump and housing assembly to the engine using a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket. Remove the water pump from the engine.
• 8 Unfasten the water pump body from the water pump housing bolts using the ratchet and socket.

• Installing the water pump. 9 Remove old gasket traces from the mating surface of the water pump housing using a plastic scraper. Install a new water pump gasket following the instructions of the new pump manufacturer.
• 10P osition the new water pump in place over the housing and install the mounting bolts by hand. Tighten the bolts to 18 foot-pounds using a torque wrench and a socket.
• 11 Place the water pump assembly in position on the engine of your Mercury Mystique and install the new bolts (part number W701544) by hand. Tighten the bolts to 13 foot-pounds using the torque wrench, short ratchet extension and socket.
• 12 Rotate the three water pump assembly bolts clockwise an additional 95 degrees using the socket, short ratchet extension and a degree wheel.
• 13 Attach the two hoses to the water pump and tighten the hose clamps with the Phillips-head screwdriver. Reinstall the drive belt using the breaker bar.
• 14 Lower your Mercury Mystique off the jack stands.
• 15 Replace the top engine cover with the ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket. Refill the radiator with coolant and tighten the radiator cap.
• 16 Connect the battery cable to the negative battery post using the wrench. Start the engine, check for coolant leaks around the water pump and add more coolant to the radiator, if necessary.

Location of idle control Google Search . Check this link to know the exact location. Gopakumar Gopalan Google

When you added the gas gauge that shifted the issue to lack of power going to the cluster. Do the warning lights work ?