20 Most Recent 1987 Suzuki Samurai - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Remove the shifter from inside, two connectors to the sensorson the trans at the firewall, remove 4 bolts holding front driveshaft to the front diff, slide rear section of front driveshaft out of the splines, remove 4 bolts holding rear driveshaft to transfer case and slide the driveshaft out of the transmission tailshaft, remove the two starter bolts ( hardest part of the job), leave the starter in the engine bay with the wires still attached, remove the clutch ARM from the transmission, remove the rear transmission mount (4 12mm bolts) support the transmission on a jack, put another jack in from of the engine to pitch the engine so the rear is sagging down slightly (this is so you have enough clearance to remove the transmission), remove the four 14 mm bellhousing bolts (remember the longer one goes onto the passenger side top) tip the tailshaft up to the floor of the Sammy and slide it to the rear as far as possible, let the front come down slowly ( it will barley rub the pressure plate but not enough to hurt anything) presto its out, replace the clutch assembly and grease throwout and transmission splines the reverse these steps. I have done 3 of these and accomplished my last one in 4 hours total. No need to remove the exhaust, transfer case or engine as others have stated on numerous write ups. You will need two 12mm combo wrenches, one 14mm combo wrench, one 3/8 drive ratchet with 12mm shortwell socket, a couple extensions for said ratchet, one small pair of pliers (to hold the clutch cable while adjusting) and a hammer to gently tap the clutch arm onto the splines.

forks, you looked inside the transfer case>?my guess is your forks statement is pure guessing.the cause can only be 3 things.1: operator error (RTM) 2: bad shifter mechanism. (from hand to dog rings3: bad transfer case.op error, not using clutch to disengage.movingor not on flat ground and there is down hill force locking the dogsin the box. so are you in main box (A/T or m/T ) and you depress theclutch (if in fact you have one) and it will not shift from 4wd.is it stuck in high range or low? 4L or 4Hif the linkage is ok and all abovethen the internal shifter box, is misaligned, a: fork rails jammed.b: forks bad,d:; forks heat welded to dog rings (gross overheated)e: bad splines on dog rings.f: ok, you get the point, bad xfr case.part 26 and 28 are what the forks move, i call the dog rings.if they are siezed , its locked.dogs are side teeth on the rings that lock in gears using said dogs.see large red arrow H/L pointing to 1 dog set.http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/xfr-case/transfer-case.html

Using the shorter gear leaver in the samurai, the gear choices are arranged in a simple U fashion. They are arranged in sequence. At left top, bottom, right middle and right top you have 2 high(2H), 4 hight (4H), neutral(N) and 4 low (4L). 2H- Engages rear wheel drive only.4H- Engages all wheels in 4X4 mode.N- Disengages all wheels (if you gonna tow your vehicle)4L- Engages all wheels in 4X4 mode with 50% more torque but you cut your top speed by an equal amount.If you have the OEM gear knob the diagram of the layout of the transfer box should be imprinted. 2 high should be used on dry and mildly wet paved roads. Using 4L or 4H in these conditions may result in damage to your transfer box. You may use 4L or 4H in any other road conditions.

88 model its a carbureter,need a clean by the sound of it

Probably the combination switch, located in steering column, controls all lights. On ours, we lost all lights EXCEPT headlights, fuses and bulbs were all good. Replaced the switch yesterday (well, our Sidekick had two switches) and now all lights work fine. You need to pull the steering wheel to get at the switches. We got parts at a junkyard, but AutoZone also sold them at less than dealer prices.

fuseable link

That's an easy fix... the bush of the TC wears out and the shift lever goes out of position. You just have to change this bush, it can be done without removing the T-case. This bush is made of some kind of plastic material, there are some in the market made of brass that will last forever. Good luck!

There are three driving modes: 2H, 4H and 4L, which stands for 4x2 High, 4x4 High and 4x4 Low. There is a modification that can be made on the transfer case to add a 2L (4x2 Low) mode, but that's not original.In order to use any of the 4x4 modes you will also have to step out of the car and turn the free wheeling hubs to the "lock" or "4x4" position.

fast answer, NO ! few car repairs are, really.the FSM covers this ,why not read it.here is the fsmclick the sammi ICON , here.FSM is the official factory service manual.http://www.fixkick.com/

very very old carb, and very hard to get parts or find a mech, who ever saw one. ever.i can direct you to the books for free, but diagnosing carbs, is a hands on, show an tell thing, that takes all day.its all here, all the time. http://www.acksfaq.com/sitemap.htm

the lamp is shared.so glows for more than one fault.fluid low.or hand brake left on.do you know how to read schematics, then this is easy.look at the R/B wire (red-blue)if this wire ground out for any reasonthe lamp glows. it works just like a flash light. http://www.acksfaq.com/diagram_color_86-88_sam.htm

carbs are tuned for you altitude. (what country?)is car still stock, many are not. not this old.and to tune it takes a 5 Gas Analyser or AFR meter.once tuned , the Cat converter cleans up the retainer,the full manual is here, for USA.http://www.acksfaq.com/sitemap.htm

contact maker, all majors have the PDF online.

dry cam.?so what did you do , just before it went dry. ( nothing. ?)got full oil pressure, mine does 50 psi cold at sender port on left side.was head off? yes.?then you put the head gasket backwards and blocked the 50thou head port. in left front of block deck.my new felpro gasket is marked, UP. buy Felpro gaskets. then win.i do top end oil ,last after i rebuild engines, and do it, only with starterand no fuel. i never burn up engines, new.not one. yet.if this just happened by magic? doing nothing?then the orifice is plugged in the head, mine is 0.050" in diameter.can clog easy, if not careful.one way is using RTV and it gets to there.

Is this the check engine light?

state problem there are 100s.

Suzuki G13 is a good engine that doesn't want for much....
To get the most out of what you have you can replace the plugs, leads and air filter and get a good tune up..
A 1-3/4" or 2" exhaust system will help it breathe but don't bother with extractors.
If you need more power, rather than playing with carbies and cams and headwork on a G13 go and get a 16V G16 out of a Baleno or Sidekick along with a Petroworks adapter kit.

my guess, dizzy pulled or wires removed, all at once?1,3,4,2 (crank motor , look to see direction, many books show it wrong, so you look)the rotor left the factor 1 way, after 20 year's 20 mechanics set ittheir way. 1of 4 ways. all 4 work, on some the vac, can hits things. so...Find TDC #1 firing, (lash loose at #1 , #1 is FRONT) then look at rotor. bingo #1 is THERE. first g o o g le hithttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17sfS1Cz3gQmost pages skip this first check. even autozoned does. that.out of factory #1 was at the clamp bolt, id not assume that.in fact i never do, on any dizzy car made. (cept, slotted dizzy drives)this car is gear drive and can be time wrong.here , this post gets it right, cept the Haynes, is a bad book. IMOhttp://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_set_the_timing_1988_suzuki_1.3one way to find TDC #1 front firing, is the wad of paper trick1; SPARK PLUG 1 OUT. KEYS, IN POCKET !stuff small wad of paper or a cotton ball (wife) in to spark hole 1.key off , turn crank by hand CW (clock wise) see wad blow out.this is the Compression stroke. keep turning crank cw until the CrankTDC mark hits 0 (firing)the rotor brass tip , now points to #1 REAL. if valve cover off, you do same until both valve #1 are loose, lash.if lash is sat wrong, you burn the valves up so no excuse for #1 valves never loose. (hint , fix that first. do the 60,000 service now)

my guess is this question is,i need the firing order. (did you remove it without marking wires?)the cap order depends on who timed it last.no matter you can find #1turn crank to TDC #1 firing mark. at 0 degree mark.if valve lash is loose on #1 then bingo, if not rotate CW one more turn.now #1 is loose. valve lash.next, look at the rotor that is #1make the cap and wire #1`now crank motor, see rotor direction? , most are CW.but look at the rotor spin and take note of that.if CW? then #3 wire is next CW , cap hole for wire.then CW, 4 then CW 2,. CW = clock wise.did i guess your question./?