1987 Suzuki Samurai - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

87 is carb fueled head lamps are first. they work with key off, or on. so is first thing to test/ report I have the OEM manual chapter 21 is electrics PDF page 111 battery not dead/ fuseable link is blown , 2 head lamp fuses, 10amp each both not blown. key off horn works too key off stop lamps work if all 4 of these fail the fuesable link is blown that power feed is called HOT all the time. 14 fuses, not counting fuseable link here it is the 3 oem manual are here, real. cut in 1/3rds called FSM 1 to 3 here. I have vast data on any sammy or anything 4wd. buy jeep or suzuki and chevys http://fixkick.com/sammi-stuff tell more and ask more I have all the tests. to find problems. if willing to use a voltmeter. etc.

The Koko Events page will show you a good preview, but the site is scammy. https://www.google.com/search?q=1987+Suzuki+samurai+fuse+box&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=ALeKk02X_n3euR2amvLoRdMUSTh4q4ZDmQ:1628283456174&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=ZwOgmMcRAUoAwM%252CXwRuwODSyA8YGM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kRW9SeAI7xcLnMhaU8tYBBUJAd3BA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjln_7HpJ3yAhWSZ80KHQyKD_8Q9QF6BAgOEAE&biw=1920&bih=937#imgrc=ZwOgmMcRAUoAwM ..

Fix your car right away by clicking the link I attached 1987 Suzuki Samurai

it is bad because the engine needs new rings compression pressure should be around 150-160psi A replacement engine would be in order

Have you tested the output of the alternator under a load? Have that done because this sure sounds like a charging system issue. Most parts stores like Autozone will test the battery and Alternator for free.

the G13 or G16 engine, and 1987 year was carbs, not EFI. so if it has carb , you need to say so. if it starts fast with test fuel (spray) then your choke is dead. ever adjust a choke before. RTM? https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/10163-1986-1987-samurai-service-manual.aspx

1987 SUZUKI SAMURAI SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL DOWNLOAD get your car fix right now

that is part time 4wd and i bet has manual locks on both front axle ends. how'd i know that.???? grin first off PT 4wd is for ICE or offroad SO if NO ICE roads handly (i cant see you drive) then go off road, or gravel road, or not pavement. then shift to 4wd. the rear will have power, for sure. so that means how to test the front end i do so on jack stands put the car up on left side engine off. lock the front left lock and right. now turn the left tire by hand,, bingo you cant. if you can and the axle behind it does not spin that means the left lock is bad. if the left axle does turns and so does the right axle , that means th right lock is bad. 3 tire on ground rules. part time. the front drive shaft will not turn, if it does the transfer case is not in 4H or 4L. if the transfer case is working the rear drive shaft can not turn, in this test. (cuz both tires are on the ground) see manual locking hubs test here and failure modes. http://www.fixkick.com/part-time-test.html

check for a vacuum leak check idle adjustment check for idle circuit solenoid is operational

you left out the question.only a noun given.is this show and tell, good, we like it.why not read the manual. if its a question.see 3 chapters here.http://www.fixkick.com/sammi-stuff/index.htmlv3:see chapter 21 page 18chapter 10 covers Alternator.see missing schematics page there... see it? all 3 pages?Got symptoms, share them>?there is no shortage of sammi books, at all....and cave man simple electrics,, ,for sure.

On the circuit that the fuse in the fuse box protects.

French post? Fiche, is the olden days micro films, of car parts, obsolete now. we use books and data bases files now. call suzuki and tell them what you want, or buy there FSM, same place if uSa car same, use alldata.com or suzukipitstop.com for books. no car stated , no year, ,no country so can not help you. sorry

Take a look at this procedure. It´s fairly simple and it will get you up and running again - http://www2.zukiworld.com/feature_installation-repair-of-transfer-case-shifter-sheet/

no CRANK OR NO START IS THE 87 Still stock?, many are not, engine swaps,? and changed carbs. ? post what engine is there G13? and fuel system. there.? EFI or CARB. if still stock the stock manual wins big time. http://www.fixkick.com/sammi-stuff/index.html check fuses. first. if not crank, then hot wire starter or jumper cable start from running car.... like AAA does... dig? next time tell if CRANKS but dont start or will not crank. we can not guess that. nor engine options.

the chock must be bad. on all carb cars , since 1964 i remove it and make it a manual choke then hot starts are easy, hot, its not touched. (instant starts hot) chokes this old never work right, they are TOO old the spring in side (bimetal) is NO GOOD. it fails to open properly. try setting the choke calibration more lean. if at higher altitude, even leaner. the book is free. see it here http://www.fixkick.com/sammi-stuff/index.html The choke is a device on most old carbs (varies by country) that closes a butterfly valve, (google that) and starves the engine of air, thus the word "CHOKE" as in Choking it. this causes higher venturi vacuum and more fuel flows from the jet nozzles. if the chock is set too rich the engine floods if set too lean , you have to pump the gas pedal to keep it alive. if the bimetal spring is slow, it floods if the choke is electic the heater needs to work or the choke sticks on. if the choke is water heated, the water needs to flow there. again the motor floods and stalls. rtm. read the chapter on the Choke, the book is free. http://www.fixkick.com/sammi-stuff/index.html

its covered in the FSM see that here, for sammi. see it, read the chapter on that, http://www.fixkick.com/sammi-stuff/index.html free to look, at any time.

When was the last time you cleaned the throttle body? The IAC could be very dirty or faulty, try cleaning the throttle body may solve your problem.

its fixed now right.? will it crank, that is first , not start.

free? a sammi forum you think? links ,here, see em. http://www.fixkick.com/sammi-stuff/index.html

Is the dash controls set in heat + defrost mode? or A/C only mode ( <<<<I will guess this) you are lucky A'/C works after 27 years.. for sure. that is an all time first. rains. what is the outdoor temperatures?, one thing i cant guess. what is your question, the above is a statement. and can be true, heater off, A/C on. on any car. controls wrong. I will try to rephrase it. I'ts hot, outside and my A/C fails. not moving. and seems to work a bit, when raining. and works ok moving fast. why? Checks (basic)

1. A/C test. turn A/C only, on and recirc. mode.
2. Does the cab fan blow hard? y/n
3. Then see if the compressor clutch is engaged. (hood up)
4. if engaged. see if front fan is on, fast running, if not, that important function is failing, more tests, ask.

RAIN issues. fan in front of the A/C condenser failed? if the front fan fails , the A/C will be weak, , not moving fast (car) and will work better in rain, because the rain cools the condenser partially hiding the fact that front fan is DEAD. that fan , to find it, look in the front grill. see it. that black fan id bet it's dead'. (that dont mean it bad; per ce'.) it can be the relay that drives it , that's bad, or the wires connecting either bad. as we say 1s things, first the glance at the fan ,then more tests if all this is greek, get the car serviced.