1996 Suzuki Sidekick - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Your hubs may not be locking. With your hubs in the locked position, raise the front tires off the ground, manually rotate each front tire and see if the axle connected to the tire spins along with the tire. If not your hubs may not be locking the wheel to the axle. Good luck.

Wery hard to tell from so short description, but it seems like it has problem with starter or the battery is to weak. First try to charge hte battery or better if you have other battery, wich is definetly in good working order. The grease in the starter with time is turning into a dirt and that can jamm your starter. Take of the starter, clean it and try to start again.

There is not separate fuses. Insure that it does not work from either the door with the problem or the main drivers control. If it does not, then you'll have to remove the door panel from the door with the window in question. You can check the power at the switch with a meter. Then check the power at the motor with a meter when moving the switch. More than likely either the motor is bad or the transmission (cable and track) is broken. You can buy them separately or as a unit. Very seldom do the wires or switches go bad prior to the other parts I mentioned.

You will need a wheel bearing socket and a press to remove the old race and install the new bearing pack. Use special tool 0999-1511 with 09930-30102. These tools are a hub remover and sliding hammer. Click on the links below to read more:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-tracker/19527-removing-front-wheel-bearing-nut.html
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t6359430-change_front_wheel_bearing_geo_tracker

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6223989-ignition_coil_doesn_t_spark . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

check for power to the coil, the connect a spark plug to the end of coil wire, touch end to ground, then remove and connect the ground on the coil, there should be a spark. the second way to check is to use a ohm meter, go across the pos and neg poles, it should read a short if it reads open, then replace

The clutch is a friction disk up against the flywheel and pressed against it by the clutch pressure place. So you have to remove the transmission in order to gain access.
For that you:
disconnect battery
drop drive shaft
remove speedometer cable or wire, shift and clutch linkage
support engine and transmission separately.
remove rear support
remove engine to transmission bolts, cover plate, and starter
slide transmission back until input shaft clears clutch pressure plate ring
lower transmission.
remove pressure plate evenly and slowly

Then you inspect for wear on the pilot bushing the input shaft rests on, the friction disc is assumed to be too thin, the pressure plate should not show heat damage or scratching, and the throw out bearing should not be noisy.

Installation is reverse except you use a fake plastic input shaft in order to firmly locate the friction disk in the right place, when bolting pressure plate on. Remember to tighten evenly, diagonally, and not to break off any bolts by over tightening. Remove fake plastic input shaft before continuing then.

You need 12 volts. and make sure the ground is good. at 5.8V you may have a bad relay, connector ,ect. if you can wire in a ligth bulb from that wire to ground then go down the line until the bulb brightens up.

Always bleed all four wheels, there is AIR in the system somewhere. Although the front and rear have seperate cylinders in the master, bleed at the wheels---to insure all air is out.

Could be throttle position sensor.

Hey man, its me again. I answered quickly because it was the first thing that made since. Ok now you say both crank and cam shaft marks are on top dead center? I think it is 180 deg out of time. The crankshaft and the camshaft? Perhaps? Im just trying to help. It is just something to do. Ya know?


I know that I have seen where someone had the falves ground before, on a ford though. And they didnt't grind the valve stem with the valve. And It wouldn't run worth a @@@@ . I never worked on suzuki. You should be able to check the cam with a cheap dial caliper or slide,. Good luck.

Did you pump up the lifters with oil? They are what oils the valves. As the motor runs they act as pumps and hydrolic shock absorbers at the same time. They pump oil up through the push rods. So when you try to adjust them they collapse and don't fill back up.

A drill press and push rod is the best way, tighten the pushrod into the chuck. Leave it off. then place the lifter in a small bowl of oil and press it down with the lever on drill. do it over and over until it gets hard to pump.

unplug the mass air flow sencer see if it helps if not then check fuel presure,
auto zone will rent you a tester, and give you some help

Another problem. Cupping would be from alignment. Dry rot is dry rot. All tires will do it.

needs a complete tune-up and the fuel injectors cleaning and fuel filter change. then go from there.

Lots of things could be wrong. Is there a safety switch on the brake where you have to press the brake before it will move out of park? Have someone check to see if the brake lights work when you press the pedal, it should be the same switch. If not, repair or replace that switch. Is the vehicle wedged against a curb, or the vehicle parked on a hill where there might be a lot of pressure on the Parking prawl? If so, it will take a lot of pressure on the shift lever to pull it out of park. If this is not the case, someone needs to figure out what is holding the lever. Is something jammed in the linkage? If everything appears loose and working freely, then the problem could be internal. I am not familiar with this vehicle, but I would check everything outside the transmission first.

SOUND LIKE THE FUEL PUMP.ITS TOO WEAK.NOT SUPPLYING ENOUGH FUEL WHEN DRIVING FASTER SPEED.

Each car has a differetnt belt routing and different method of tensioning the serp.belt....best way to know if it has a spring loaded tensioner,or a slide tensioner is to get a manual specific to your vehicle....I go to gthe local library and look at the Haynes or Chiltons manual specific to your sikekick...otherwise buy a manual for your car...you will end up needing it again and again ...good luck...Lee

Check other components of your ignition system (ign. coil, igniter unit, cables). Check also your ignition timing. If ignition system is ok, check if your pump is delivering the right pressure. You may want also to check if you have manifold leaks.

You have to bleed the system.