20 Most Recent 1997 Suzuki Sidekick - Page 7 Questions & Answers

did you check the timing you might have busted your timing belt or chain which one it could be
bad alternator
or a bad computer module
diagnosis with out being there is really hard to say but can be done with little bit more information like what happened before this problem occured say like was motor running rough did it hesitate
these things are very helpful in diagnosing the problems

According to SUZUKI truck please send to me more details diesel truck or petrol

try your fusible link!

it should be located within 12 inches of your steering wheel under the dash, so that you can see it from a kneeling position r it may be located behind the ashtray. Yes on some makes and model you need to remove the ashtray. The connector is a16 pin lug in.
Good luck

CHECK THE FUEL LINES, THERE IS A CLOSE LOOP

double posted and to wrong forum getting on the right forum gets 100x better answers. check carefully. and is a real tractor too. try posting here http://www.fixya.com/tags/iseki_tractors i typed, google, fixya tractors iseki and bingo

Hi. Thanks for your question. For issues related to pulse on the injectors for Suzuki you can visit https://www.reliable-store.com and download the entire workshop manual which includes all the information along with the diagrams for better understanding. Good day!

GET IT TO A MECHANIC!! Something is loose or about to collapse! Remember that vibration and noise can travel away from the source so get the mechanic to start in that corner. You need to get the following checked! -Prop shaft mountings at transfer box. -Prop shaft mountings at differential. -Prop shaft bearings. -Differential condition and oil level. -Drive shafts at differential end. -Drive shafts at the wheel end. -All flexing joints in the system including UV joints and CV joints.

no, the E and marks are for 2 engines. E mark for G16B (16valve MPI engine) I and E marke are for the twin cam engine, (see link for deeper facts) see? if you use the wrong marks, the engine will not run and compression falls by 1/2 from 180 psi to 90 or less. the G16A is different 8v head, yours is the 95HP, 16valve head. http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16v-procedure.html covers all ways to do it right and wrong.

that is a suzuki SPORT. 1.8L (wide frame) J18 engine- the understroked J20 engine. and is a very rare car, even new was rare......!!! watch out for stores selling wrong parts, that will never fit a Sport. all 5sp boxes M/T the transmission uses GL4,fluid, gear lube 4 (API spec) first make sure the right side plug (front never touch rear bolt) is loose. 10mm square drive it is (all parts on car are metric) then the books are free, need links. the bottom has a matching plug, that drains. as does the transfer case if 4wd, is car 4wd? http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/tune-ups.html#5sp here is the stuck side plug, photo. last goon used 3/8" drive wrench, and stripped it. its 10mm only so the mech here had to weld on the bolt . also when car was new the plug was factory caulked. after 20 years and not serviced, (common) that caulk is like diamond hard. so we heat it up. with a torch first if hard to turn CCW. http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-pull/images/DYI-filler-plug1.jpg the 5speed is convered here in the FSM http://www.acksfaq.com/96-FSM-v1-7B-pdf.htm the operators guide covers it , Lost yours?)( the opr guide chapter 9 page 10 covered that. if lost here it is http://ge.tt/7uvJL2C2/v/0 the 89-98 are all same box. same words in all operators guide in print. 5 speed. keep a copy. finding good GL4 is hard, many stores dont sell it. or only sell axle lube. GL5.

if stock ask for a manual. if not stock you must identify it by name and model and get the book on it. do tell which/?

what engine size. we cant guess either. the 89 has 1.3l and 1.6 but both are timed with the Distributor. the whole pages are here. http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/89-timing.html

Reading the old fluid can help the mechanic determine what is wrong. The replacement fluid will be thinner than the old contaminated fluid making clutches more likely to slip.

There is a fuel pump shutoff on most cars. Look in the owners manual. The reset button is usually located inside the vehicle near the gas cap (just in front of the gas cap). Usually a small rubber grommet or access panel that you pop off and press a button. The button lets the fuel pump and engine control activate again. Rear bar impact, roll over (or almost roll over) will activate the safety feature.