if the "O" ring leaks always replace it with a new one
if you feel that you have to use silicon sealer , use locktite red and only in the o ring grooves as it is oil and heat resistant but sealer should not be necessary as the sealing action is at the o ring
in usa, all cars , here, 1996+
same answer.
1: you connect any scan tool and push reset.
2: pull the fuse called ECU memory ,and it resets.
3: or as the books tells you drive off the DTC error, this can take days, to do, some have many driving cycles to clear,we ignore this totally, its pita.
you asking how to diagnose DTC errors here?
that is the subject of a whole book, why not by the book
read it and ask questions not clear.?
or
scan it and post the errors
or
same and read the FSM on that error
the factory service manual covers each one, and what steps to reduce it to cause. (more tests)
join an Australian Forum, ever consider that<?
Our forum is USA and we don't have any books on your cars.
not only that, there is no PDF back in 1998. so some poor guy/gal
would have to scan it page by page front and back for a week.
no one has yet.. sorry, (hope im wrong but , i bet not !)
best place for real used book is on ebay (Australian, version)
login to alldata.com yet see if what you want to do matches yours?
login to suzuki pitstop plus and look
its just 4 bucks to look !
but the engine choice here, are less so may not match, same with wiring and wiring colors, and lighting, and other differences(laws)
https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1123-1998-swift-service-manual.aspx
like first google hit?
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/australia/https://www.facebook.com/suzukiswiftclubaustralia
ever google, and use Australia as part of the search?
our forum here X, is in California. and is not organized at all
and for sure country.
in fact, our forum forgets to even ask that. step 1. Sadly.
this one fact, makes most answers wrong, or at least 1/2
the FSM covers this, and alldata.com (USA we are and links)
and at suzukipitstopplus (real fsm sold there)
posted many times now here, did you search.?
i posted every step just this week.
here is remove , it , list (not doing all 50 steps. sorry)
quote FSM>
the process of removing the engine, you will come across a number of steps which call for the removal of a separate component or system, such as "disconnect the exhaust system'' or "remove the radiator.'' In most instances, a detailed removal procedure can be found elsewhere. It is virtually impossible to list each individual wire and hose which must be disconnected. Careful observation and common sense are the best possible approaches to any repair procedure.
Removal and installation of the engine can be made easier if you follow these basic points:
If you have to drain any of the fluids, use a suitable container.
Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possible, the components they came from before disconnecting them.
Because there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label the retainers from components separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee cans. This will prevent confusion during installation.
After unbolting the transmission or transaxle, always make sure it is properly supported.
If it is necessary to disconnect the air conditioning system, have this service performed by a qualified technician using a recovery/recycling station. If the system does not have to be disconnected, unbolt the compressor and set it aside.
When unbolting the engine mounts, always make sure the engine is properly supported. When removing the engine, make sure that any lifting devices are properly attached to the engine. It is recommended that if your engine is supplied with lifting hooks, your lifting apparatus be attached to them.
Lift the engine from its compartment slowly, checking that no hoses, wires or other components are still connected.
After the engine is clear of the compartment, place it on an engine stand or workbench.
After the engine has been removed, you can perform a partial or full teardown of the engine, as required.
Relieve the fuel system pressure on fuel injected vehicles.
Using a scratch awl, scribe the hood hinge-to-hood outline, then, using an assistant remove the hood.
Make a note of all radio pre-sets and the radio code.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system.
CAUTION
When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a seal-able container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
Remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the radiator assembly along with the cooling fan.
Disconnect and tag all necessary electrical connections.
Disconnect and tag all necessary vacuum lines.
Disconnect, tag and plug all necessary fuel lines.
Disconnect the heater inlet and outlet hoses.
Disconnect the following cables:
The accelerator cable from the throttle body or carburetor.
The clutch cable from the transaxle (for manual transaxle models).
The gear select cable and the oil pressure control cable from the transaxle (for automatic transaxle models).
The speedometer cable from the transaxle.
Raise and safely support the vehicle safely.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
Disconnect the gear shift control shaft and the extension to the transaxle for (manual transaxle models).
Drain the engine oil and transaxle oil.
Remove the drive axles from the differential side gears of the transaxle. For the engine/transaxle removal, it is not necessary to remove the drive axle from the steering knuckle.
Remove the engine rear torque rod bracket from the transaxle (for automatic transaxle models).
Lower the vehicle.
Install a suitable chain hoist to the lifting device on the engine.
Remove the right side engine mounting from its bracket.
On vehicles equipped with a automatic transaxle, remove the transaxle rear mounting nut.
On vehicles equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the transaxle rear mounting from the body.
Remove the transaxle left side mounting bracket.
Lift the engine and transaxle assembly out from the vehicle. Separate the transaxle from the engine.
which engine? of the many and want country. ?
some are even diesel.
there are 3 phases to this.
cranking robustly
starts
and runs. and may stall soon after. or not.
at what point does this process fail.
if it dont crank we diagnose th starter system.
it fails to start (we check spark , then fuel) if both ok we check for lost compression (cam timing belt slipped>?)
if it stalls, lots more test.. over 50 causes.
this is what a tech does, diagnose. saving lots of time guessing and buying un-needed parts.
tell more, get more. but what engine.'
overheated it? 98 swift, (which of 7 engines is it)
how can temp run perfect on a no start engine?
ok you meant before the stall. got it.
seems to me it cranks robustly , right.
so spark is next, got spark to all cylinders>.?
(we are USA and all USA cars this year scan with any scan tool made) so scan it.
scan before cranking then crank and scan. for 5 seconds cranking
the scan tool will tell you why it is not making spark or fuel.
if you have spark test fuel testing works, if that works , that means.
you have fueling loss or flooding, did you check for flooding
or crank wide open throttle to clear flood >?
test fuel will run any good engine for 3 seconds. per test.
100 years we do that.
test fuen in can, or put gas in spray bottle.
seems wire was disconnected at the service of thermostat
so look for loose wires. and connectors at engine
watch scotty
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
no.
but its a short. non the less.
the solution to this oddity is called an AMP meter, or Ammeter
you can find shorts with one, by finding which branch on the tree is shorted.
what fuse. we cant guess that
and use a real schematic to find the path.
need a video.? we can show one.
double posted ANON.
welll it was answered all ready.
what does turn over mean.
wont crank
or cranks perfectly but will not start
we can guess that, ever. must be said.
and check fuses?
check for spark yet?
did it over heat engine, , NO ? if NO, then the thermostat is not it.
did you knock off wires or connectors doing this service?
did you burp all air from the cooling loop, or just slam it and and hope it works.? this the first drain an fill ever? of an engine for you ?
old postno country stated! usa car posted to this usa forum?no engine size stated, M15?the injector noid lamp (injector umplugged it fails)show those 2 lines are dead, (4 wires)2 are power, got power there?its bad ecu if direct driving injector as most aresome cars have resistors block between ecu and injector.that too can fail as can its wireslacking what engine, this is, answers can only be vague.
Mine did that and we found the ground wire to the lights was not making contact.like it should. We ran a new wire and fastened it right to the engine itself and now everything works. Make sure all your cables are tight and clean both ends as well.
what tranny> ,
we cant guess that but the Push deal says, manual.
so the clutch switch is bad, or maladjusted.
if the starter hot wire check works then the key line is dead.
if the hot wire fails. at the solenoid then starter is bad, or battery low.
takes 5-10 amps to push start a car, but 100 amps to crank it.
big diffr that.
why skip the jumper cable start of a running other car.
this tells the most. (remove 2 systems from cause battery and charge system) its first,. just like the AAA tow guys.
98 swift
the battery is weak ,discharged or bad, change it.
try jumper cable starts.
if that works try a charged battery now. or clean the terminals first.
if jumper cable start fails , then hot wire the starter.
using a jumper wire. (see key line link below)
if that fails the starter is bad.
if that works the key line is dead.
is caR A/T or m/t tranny?
we cant guess that. so.....
if M/T the clutch switch is bad.
if A/T the PRNLD switch is bad, try cranking in NEUTRAL ?
if input to both switches is dead, then igntion start switch is bad.
the method works on all cars , older that about 2007.
newer cars have autostart , remote start and other complex bs.
http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html
old post,sorrycheck all fuses yet?in both fuse boxes?in what country is this swiftwe cant guess this,if usa car say so, we have all books on usa caron this usa forum.
