1999 Suzuki Esteem - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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The horn in located below the right side (passenger side) headlight. What you need to do is get a 9/32 socket or something this size, and remove the covering from under the engine compartment. So, lay down on the ground remover the (black ground cover which keeps debris from heading to the engine area) located between the tire and headlight. Once that is off suprise there is the horn.............beep beep


the horn is behind the front bumper or grille somewhere. the relay is probably behind the dash inside the vehicle. when you push the horn do you hear a ticking noise? if you do, follow the ticking noise to find the relay.(it makes the noise)if it makes the noise, it probably works and you should check the wire connection to the horn unit. it looks like a nautilus, sort of a coil resulting in one open end, pointing down.it is abou the size of your hand. if it does not make a noise it would probably be your horn fuse or your switch look at the link www.auto barn

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I'll skip the obvious and get to the point. Remove the caliper assembly, there maybe a dust cap in the center which will have to be removed, you can do this by tapping lightly on the ends in a side to side motion. Once you get the dust cap off remove the cotter pin from the bolt that locks the bolt in place. Place a socket on the blot and remove. Most likely the bearing will drop out at this point. If it doesn't use a flat head screwdriver to remove the washer that covers it and remove the outer bearing assembly and inspect for damage. You also want to check the races in the Rotor for damage. The rotor should come off fairly easy at this point giving you access to the inner bearing assembly and inner race. If the races are damaged you will need to use a bearing race puller to remove them and replace. These are pressed in and must be smooth. Replace any damaged bearings making sure to lubricate them fully with bearing grease. This is best done by putting a decent amount of grease in 1 palm and then pressing the bearing into the palm to push the grease into the bearing itself. Once you lubricate a bearing make sure to keep it clear of any dust or dirt while you do the other then reverse the process to assemble everything. When you tighten the bolt back down make sure to smug it up but do not over tighten. The rotor should turn freely when assembled, unless you have front wheel drive and the other wheel is on the ground. Once the bolt is snugged down install the cotter pin to keep it from slipping. Install the dust cap by tapping it in place lightly, try not to bend it. Put the caliper back in place and everything else is self explanatory. Should take roughly an hour for the whole job plus time to run for parts.

depends on whether or not there is also play in it. if the door is loose, then you need new hinges. if it is merely squeaking then a dry lubricant such as graphite can be helpful or a goopy lubricant such as chain lube in a spray can is good.

alternator may be failin-testit--go to a discount place and they can do it for free

Must take immediate action to see if there is loss of enigne oil, faulty pressure pump if this is the engine oil . but being yellow it can be the power steering fluid or the fault associted with this section. But more so get this checked.

change the belt. it is probably time anyways. I like the GoodYear Gaterback belt. While the belt is off you can run the car for a minute. If the noise is from the timing belt you would hear it(unlikely though). Install belt and let it run for a few minutes. Turn off and check for proper tension. Replace tensioner as a last resort. Enjoy the quiet.

check alternater output..maybe battery not getting charded.
If alternater alrite then get battery load tested.Will be either of the two.

have you left a wire off on the positive terminal

You suspect the head gasket is blown? Was the car overheating? Blowing steam out the rear? Did you get the compression checked? It would have told you what it was and which cylinder it was. The cam/s has to come off to get the head/s off. There are a couple of bolts under the cams. I would put he bolts back in that you got off, put on a comp tester, and spin the engine over, don't let it start, then determine what has to be done. But the head gasket is one thing, the head could need to be surfaced, and the bolts need to be replaced. There are videos on youtube about engine repair, maybe not your car but close. Check it out, Hope this helps.

Replace thermostat. If that doesn't work, suspect blown head gasket or cracked head.

take off the radiator cap and fill the rad with antifreeze. start the montor and keep watching the level of the antifreeze and keep adding as necessary. when the termostat opens you sould shee a sudden drop in level.... keep adding antifreeze. squeezing the upper rad hose will help remove air bubbles. BE EXTREMELY CARE OF THE FAN AND OTHER MOVING PARTS TO PREVENT INJURY. after you are satisfied that you have added enough fluid put the rad cap back on. fill the overflow tank to the leven it indicates.... take it for a drive and let it cool down. open the rad cap and top of the fluid if necessay.

Check tire's and air pressure, belt's, coolant hoses, air filter, all fluid level's, check brake's and check all light's and wiper's.

sounds like a wire is grounding out through it or the cable is touching the exhaust

You are on the correct lines, try spraying penetrating fluid into the valve, sounds like the valve is sticking. Maybe need to replace the valve.

Also check for air leaks on the inlet side of the engine, air leaks cause revving issues. Easy way is spray a fine mist of easy start over the inlet, if the revs race up then you have a leak or pipe off.

Overheating is the cause for the warp. Most cases a rotor gets warped when it's constantly gets overheated from driving habits. Like constantly stopping at the last minute, driving downhill in slow traffic, and etc. Or, possibility it could be just cheap low grade rotors. Plus, the wrong type of brake shoe can play a part by causing high heat friction.

The best advice is to take the car to have it inspected by a shop before you buy it. There maybe some unforeseen problems ahead. Better safe than sorry.

You may have either a power drawl in the brake light circuit or a loose12v wire thats swinging against ground and shorting.With car on check the tail light wires.Move them around with your hand to see if the problem reoccures.

check the contacts on the headlight that there is no rust or dirt on the contacts,and check your fuses

does it stop when the car is idel. Then incress the RPM

Once the whel is off - it wil come off..
If there is a center bolt over the drum (I dont think there is) remove it.
The drum will be stubourn so it might take a few smacks from the back side to pop it loose..

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