2000 Suzuki Swift - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check the automatic idle control valve. It may need to be cleaned. A vacuum leak will cause erratic speed ups too.

bend it back or replace it do either one

try the auto wreckers that wreck your make of vehicle good reconditioned units can be got from auto transmission specialist shops on an exchange basis or you can have yours rebuilt in a specialist shop any way what is wrong with yours that you need a different transmission

Is there any service engine lights on ? is it always or just, hot /or cold what is the miles on it , and have you had any maintenance done. in last year or two? / it could be some thin very simple, like plugged air filter/bad temp sensor/or fuel filter / or just Warren out spark plugs / but all this is just a guess unless we can git a little more info. if no service engine light, then i would start with basic tune up maintenance/ least expensive first/ last of all it does sound as tho it could be a clogged catalytic converter,[ But a clogged fuel filter will too.] so i am not advocating any thin expensive/ only to start with basic maintenance first that may salve your concern/please let us know if this is helpful and please if we can be of any further assistance feel free to ask. Thank You.

check fuses FIRST this is easy, if you have a voltmeter. got one, from walfart for $10 bucks? the rear defrost grid is dead. so does it have 12vdc end to end, on those grid contracts. Yes, then the grid is bad. no,then the relay that feeds it is dead. if the relay id dead then check the fuses, first, do this first any way the Volt meter will not lie to you, it will show if power reaches and outputs from the RELAY. it will even show the switch is working. my first test above, cuts the problem in half in under 2 minutes. if unsure, ask.

stalls. so did your fast right foot save it, can it? ever give it a tune up this decade? if not ,why not now?

buysellfindfixtest? ask a real question.

Try autozone dot com and make a free account and look for the maintenance guides.

Check the ball joints. It they are serviceable grease them, if not they should be inspected and if needed replaced.

Check bulbs. If high beams work, then the fuse is likely fine. Do double check fuse box anyway though.If all checks out, then check the headlight switch stalk with a multimeter.

look on ebay for the radio removal tools. there should some slots or holes either side of the radio where you place the tools into the radio. then hey presto the radio should pull out.

hope this helps.

what is your cars problem and maybe we can help ??

run a scan on it

Looks like it's time to hit the auto boneyards! Bring an old non-serrated kitchen knife and a lighter with you.Heat the knife up and use the hot blade to soften the adhesive to remove it frim another car.You can then take the emblem home and clean off the old double stick foam tape,and clean it up to reattach to your car(Goof-Off works good).

You need to determine if it is in the gauge or tank sending unit.
Remove the tank unit wire, and ground it. Gauge should go to full. If not, then gauge bad. If yes, then tank unit or tank ground is bad. It is basically a wound variable resistor, and the wire often breaks. If you have trouble getting a new one, you can rewind an old one if you are desperate. You can't easily use a voltmeter to trouble shoot because the fuel gauge system uses an oscillator to convert to AC so that there is less chance of spark ignition.

If you are having problems with reading the engine computer and the engine is malfunctioning, you may have a bad ECU "engine computer".

offhand sounds like you need a new ignition switch, is not doing its job. since both can be changed with nearly the same labor, get a new lock cylinder and avoid duplicating labor cost. you may find once you get in there that a special tool is going to be required to take the old ignition switch out due to anti-theft hardware.

it may behoove you to get an estimate from a dealer, where they have the special tools. also if there is some other error causing the problem they may SAVE you some money spent on replacing the wrong component. there could well be defective circuitry, independent of the ignition switch, designed to shut the lights off a few minutes after shutdown and that is what really needs replacing.

no one wants to pay dealer labor costs but there are some situations, especially electronic issues, where they are way ahead of do-it-yourself or the corner mechanic.

sounds like you have a fuel problem check fuel lines and vent on fuel tank

passenger side, underneath the seat, next to the wad of chewing gum

Try some engine cleaner and that will help improve rough idle and or performance. To me it sounds like a possible motor mount issue. Sounds like the front engine mount. Because you explained up a hill rattle. / Down Hill\ no rattle. Engine lifts when going up hill and shifts downward while going down hill. hence no vibration because of gravity pull and the weight of the engine.