20 Most Recent 1983 Plymouth Gran Fury Questions & Answers

over inflated tires. or bad suspension alignment. go to any tire shop after trying tire at door jam (drivers) stated pressure. get aligment check this car is a man killer, fix it now, save some lives. or wrong tries, using huge tires on car, can cause tires to crown, and need very low pressure to correct. seen this on 4wd cars with insane size tires way too many times. ask. if tires are not stock size, say what yours are.

Locating the source of the drain can either take a long time or you can get lucking and find it quickly. The easiest way I have found to isolate and narrow down where the draw/drain is coming from is this: You will need a test light. You will need to disconnect the negative cable from your battery. Connect the "aligator" clip on the test light to the groung terminal/cable that is attached to the vehicle and then take the "pointy" part of the test light to the negative terminal on the battery. If you have a draw/drain the light on the test light will light up. Now with the light on the test light glowing, begin to pull one fuse at a time (putting them back after). When you get to the circuit the the draw is coming from the light will shut off. Now comes the long process of finding out what that fuse covers and narrowing down and locating the draw. Now the light may be a little dim if you have a delay on any lights shuting off or from your radio or clock storing memory from your radio and due to the clock always needing power to keep time, this is normal and shouldn't be enough to drain the battery. That's going to be a dim light. If it's a bright light then you have a pretty good pull on your battery and that's what you need to find. For example, below is a picture of the fuse panel on your vehicle. Say you pull the number 7 fuse out and the bright light goes out. The stuff on that circuit are things like the light in the glove box, the cig. lighter and a number of other things. Begin by disconnecting stuff on that circuit (with the fuse back in) until the light on the test light goes out again. Then at that point you have located the source of the draw and correct it. I hope I was able to explain it to you correctly and hope this helps you.

Give me some more information about this problem. May be i can help.

Water, or if you mean coolant??? Get the coolant system pressure tested, if you are leaking coolant into the oil, you new parts will be destroyed if you run it.

bang them apart with a looks like a fork can quite remember the name of the top of my head but that what you need to seperate good luck

no... it is normal.

This sounds like the horn may have a short in it somewhere. Does the horn blow at all? Try this: Make sure you have a good fuse installed to this circuit again. Disconnect the horn and place a volt/ohm meter set to DC volts on the horn connections. If there is just 1 wire going to the horn, put that wire on the red wire of the meter. Put the black wire of the meter to a good ground, preferably the negative battery terminal. Now press the horn and see if there is a reading of around 12 Volts. If so, replace the horn. If not, and the fuse blows again, check the wiring for a fray/short to ground. When you're looking at the horn of course, make sure the positive lead isn't shorting to ground as well.

I hope this helps! Let me know if you need any more assistance! :)

-Jason

on the side of the block near the timing chain cover

Get some penetrating spray and give the bolts/nuts that hold the tank straps up there, a good coat early, to help make it easier. Remove filler neck from tank, which is usually just a matter of loosening a hose clamp, and if you can get to fuel lines, without lowering tank, remove them as well.
Now take a floor jack or whatever you have to lower the tank safely with such as a good size piece of plywood on jack to help stabilize and remove strap bolts and straps, steady & lower tank on jack, (remove lines now if not done sooner) and pull out from under car. Please be sure to make sure all safety precautions are followed such as properly ventilated area, no sparks or flames or open lights in area, fuel level in tank is taken into consideration, safety stands used where necessary to jack car up, and an extra set of hands when lowering tank would be advisable to help balance it while lowering etc.

1rst make sure its the right shock you can measure it against the old one if it is the same size you may have to pry down on the lower control arm to get the required clearance that you need hope this helps you.

Should be located on the block, passenger side, down low, and more at the front of the vehichle. It is a mechanical pump and bolted to the block with either 2 or 3 bolts, should have 2 or 3 steel lines cominng out of it.

yes this is a common minor issue with these headrest. where the little button at the bottom is you should be able to just hold that in and slowly liftup on the headrest and it should come out with ease. if this does not work you have only one more option and that is to gently remove the seat cover its self from the seat foams all the wayup to the headrest holes ( NOW if it is orig fab/leather or vynil you will have to be EXTREMELY CAREFUL not to destroy your seat covers in the process of this. i recomend in this case you take it to a professional if that is not the case keep reading) if it is orig vynil you will need a blow dryer to loosin the vynils grip on the foams if it is fabric it is just going to take a little bit more time to wiggle it off of there! then when you have all of that off in the location of the headrest you should be able to push the headrest up thru the orig holes . that is what i know . i hope this helps you out without damage to your very sweet RR

Ask the schematic finding experts -
They will get it for you.

http://manualfox.com

V6

1968 Barracuda with a 318cid; The 5th digit of the vin will be (F) for the engine-318 2v rated @ 230hp.

Compression pressure--125-155 max variation 25
Spark plugs--Champion N-14Y @ .035" gap-torqued @ 30ft. lb.
Timing--man. trans @ 5 degrees btdc, auto trans @ 10 degrees btdc.
Points-- .014"-.019" gap--Dwell--28-33 degrees, max variation is 2 @ 1500 rpm--Spring tension--17-20 ounces.
Fuel pump pressure 5-7 lbs. manual pump
Hydraulic Lifters--no valve clearances
Firing order--1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 counterclock wise rotation
Idle speed--Turn headlights on highbeams and turn a/c off
500rpm for man trans--500rpm auto trans in neutral.

Left bank of the engine (driver's side), 1-3-5-7 Right bank (passenger side), 2-4-6-8

No the torsion bar if you look at it where it goes to the under carriage it will have a bolt for tension on each side. Are you tring to replace the bushings for the torsion bar? If so answer back.

make sure your distributor is receiving battery voltage.

Check the ballast resistor (white ceramic block about 2 in long on the firewall, they are about $2.  (You may be depressed you spent the $$ on a tune-up for a $2 part if it solvs the problem, but hey, it needed a tune up anyway.)  There are two types of resistors so pay attention to what it looks like & how many wires. It controls the spark when the engine heats up and is in the coil circuit.  You don't say, but make sure the rotor turns when you crank it over.  The B-block is a very tough engine but if the cam or the distributor drive gear are broken might cause the symptom as well.