20 Most Recent 2000 Suzuki Esteem Questions & Answers

I think you could use this manual method instead.. My nephew used it to repair my car and it's perfectly fine now. Here's the website he bought it from. www.reliable-store.com

Hi Good chance is you wiper motor is blown. check the motor

Check fuses and ground wires

2000 SUZUKI ESTEEM REPAIR MANUAL to know your answer visit the link

old esteem. This is covered in both books, OPR and service the books both are 4 bucks to read at suzuki. posted like 300 times here. the real factory book not bs, not spam or clone crapp. https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Category/3-suzuki-service-manuals.aspx since its easter egg hunt , is this fun? and in most cases never fails. do HAZARDS WORK ARE both hazard fuse and turn fuses good? tested OK. that be first..... for sure. not the most 2nd most expensive part. as is, does one blinker work, if only 1 of the 4 are plugged in? all blinkers, what, stuck on,dead, some all, or dim.??? ask for help first, with real symptoms, and win I ill look now, and pretend you said, its 1.6L G18 engine, and not th J18,,,, they can be different, ok there is 2 door and 4, ill guess, 2 the left side of the dash has this relay. turn sig, module. drawing id 26, this relay is on top of the 2 sided cab fuse box (left dash) USA. seen here. its next to the head light relay.

The part you are looking for in covered by a Suzuki recall. It was was defective from the start. Take your car to a Suzuki dealership and they should replace the part for you @ no cost to you.

Hi there!

Start at the beginning - the foot pedal switch.
It's usually mounted above the pedal, but you may need to be a contortionist to see it. Remove the connectors and check the switch.

If this doesn't solve it, contact me again & we'll go on from there.

If this solves the problem, Please spare a moment to rate as Fixya! Thanks.

posted 2 times, answered you and many others here.http://www.fixkick.com/engine/20Liter/images/ckp2.jpgyou have to pull engine or trans to get to it .why gue$$?why not post the symptoms, first.let me guess, car misfires or dont startthe ask in the internet for hubbyand find that there are 1000s telling youthat the CKP is bad,but not one (useless guesser) knows it takespull the engine or pull the transmision before there useless drivel guess.if you scan the PCM and there is no CKP errorsthere are ARE NONE the PCM will report 1 in 10 pulses missingif you crack the book the FSM , suzuk factory service manual it tells you exactly that,on all G16 engine and up. facts.so instead of guessing or posted wild goosechaseeaster egg hunts.?why not, pray tell,ask how to diagnose symptoms??guessing really doesn't workin fact if car misfires, 50 causes. or wont starti have list but why look why guess.

remove cover and alli estare right under ell sensor disconnect and you remove the screws and you can get. Thanks and good luck

No SYMPTOMS stated, (sadly) the J18 engines, twin cam, chain drive cam, nice motor. an under stroked, J20. it is.. and share most parts. alldata.com covers it.... and all cars... mostly. for sure esteems (used books real off Ebay, if lucky, do a watch on ebay)? and for sure Suzuki, the FSM is $4 to read. and posted 100 time here. (more ) this the real deal, (McCoy) https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1182-2000-esteem-service-manual.aspx the filter, and pump , no need to replace pump unless it has 12vdc to IT CRANKING< and filter is new. AND, pressure is out of spec. (see spec, below) a gauge is $20 and way more easy to use than a bath in gasoline for sure.and a $10 voltmeter from walfart. now the Esteem secret (just in CASE) "Remove rear seat cushion, rear right seat back, right side sill scuff, right front partition trim and right rear door opening trim." bingo, a secret access port. now the spec. 31-37 ?idle PSI this is the fuel pressure at the rail, at idle. cranking is 6 PSI more driving up hill, wide open throttle, pressure rises to 3- 6psi more that idle. (near) if pressure is low, check for 12vdc to pump, first. then make sure the FPR works. they can stick open closed or jam. and it must work right. or fueling will be ALL wrong. (cars this old FPR love to fail) this engine ECU has program revision (flash) that causes pump to not run key on, (read TSBs on same at suzuki...) so, crank it and check pressure cranking if not starting? or if it does start (you never said) then check at idle and WOT. the PSI ( then gun throttle see pressure jump way higher) if all this pans out, forget pump, and FPR. did you scan the PCM yet, that be like first.. all scan tools (real) work on 2000 cars.... all do.

there are 3 ways, all are manual really, (human done)1: tank snake oil. chevron works best.2: fuel rail add, tiny tank kit, works better 3: pro way. seen below. (off car in the ultra sound cleaner)slam dunk, old post.pro shop cleaningis best.here is why. !they reverse unltra sound clean them, this cleans the 10 micron screens hidden inside. and cleans the tips like NOTHING ELSE can.all other ways are very poor.here is one great example.http://www.witchhunter.com/

Check the low and hi beam relays might be stuck

nice double post, back up one and read. but now adds MANUAL. so the reverse switch is bad, remove it ,2wire switch and put in new. its just a simple Thomas Edison switch, (no electronics) nothing magic. the FSM< covers this, (factory service manual) as does alldata.com if an OHM meter (resistance low range) shows infinity in reverse its bad, if reads 0 ohms its good, so if good, the wires to it were bad. or both lamp out, (can happen, ignored)

the car comes with 2 transmission. a/t and m't (auto or stick) the a/t uses an expensive PRNDL switch (aka. neutral switch) the m/t uses reverse switch. both are located on the transmission. the m/t has 2 wires) the A./t about 6. (not 2) with those 2 facts, you can find it, counting wires. next time post trans type, so we dont have to guess.

I had the same problem on my 2000 Suz, Est 1.8L. Finally I gave up. I put back the tire and the disk brake back on, Very important, since I caught the torn boot soon after it happened, instead of driving I towed the car to the mechanic for 60$. When you take the car to the mechanic also bring two universal C.V. boots . I got one from O'Reiley for ~14$. Bring two such boots so is easier on the mechanic, doesn't have to order them and wait for them to come. Also buy CV joint lubricant. If you are lucky, and have not heard a ratteling sound in the joint while turning corners before discovering the torn C.V. boot, he may simply have to just change the greas after hosing off with air under pressure the old junk. Have him if the joint is still fine ( no sand in between ) to also change the C.V. boot on the side toward the engine, after removing the C.V. axel. Don't do this last procedure by yourself. It is almost impossible for a mechanic at home conditions. Must be done in a shop. Have him change both boots since the life expectancy of those things, according to the manual is 120k miles. Second don't touch anuthing concerning the C.V. joint without having from a manual the torque specifications for the different bolts. If you have those specifications and know for certain how to use a torque rench, after the mechanic is done you can only try to bring the bolts chat connect the c.v. axel to the struts (the thing with the big spring) , or at least inspect them after some driving cause one of my bolts there was kind of loose from the mechanic, yet eth new c.v. boot was placed perfectly.
So, take two c.v. boots c.v. joint grease take the car tothe mechanic and have him change both.
Please don't mess with that stuff yourself , I have a very expensive original manual for the car (there is no single one from Chilton on themodel) it is vague , not only on this but also on other topics. Apparently the style of writing is more oriented toward the mechanic than to the ordinary person (like me)

Parts store or suspension shop should have one.

Your best hope is to go to or phone your nearest suzuki dealer so you get the EXACT sized one or really good auto parts centre/. friend. Both Ebay uk and USA seem to only have the Land Rover ones.

pressure check the cooling system and check for leaks. you are obviously losing coolant somewhere.

side lamp are parking lamps. are all dead. or just one.?? one means its bad, all bad fuse or relay

probably a bad pressure switch, either the low pressure switch is stuck open, or the high pressure switch is stuck closed. The low pressure is fairly common and easy to test with a jumper wire.